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SacBill

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hmmm...this doesn't look to good...

http://mach1.classic-mustang.net/~bill/studbreak2.jpg

Got a nice clattering from the top right of the motor about 60 miles from my house (only 10 miles from destination!) - open valve cover and this is exactly what I see (above) -- I pulled this out and tried nursing it home, but I still had some bad clatter coming from the same area (under the valve cover) and I started blowing a small amount of blue smoke after about 15 miles. -- Pulled over and had it towed the rest of the way. Could this have been caused by the new Edelbrock Performer Package (not RPM package).

My plan is to just rebuild these heads somewhat stock with screw-in studs. Any other advice on the motor at this time?
 
If you plan on sticking with the stock type heads, check out www.powerheads.com. IMHO best bang for the buck iron head wise.

The least I would do if keeping those is for sure go screw in studs. Also consider going up to the W valve size (1.84/1.54). You can either go with guide plates, which will require hardened pushrods, or opt for the the Comp Magnum roller tip rail type rockers and use your orignal pushrods. Assuming your pushrods are ok and correct in length.

Good luck.
 
Bill - Not good.

This is nature's way of telling you to go buy a set of performance heads. Could be a few "while I'm at its" in the cards, too.
 
I agree with the suggestion for Powerheads. They can do wonders to a set of stock 289 heads. Would also recommend headers to make sure you are getting the exhaust out like you should. The Performer Package is a waste of money with your stock heads and stock exhaust manifolds.
 
Looks like an exhaust stud went, eh? *G* I know that feeling, even with screw-ins. The only difference is that they're easier to replace. I always carried extras when street racing, along with a deep socket and some Permatex #2. Got me home many a late ni ght...*G*

Likely the smoke would have been less if you had killed the cylinder and just let it pump compression.

Your failure was likely just caused by fatigue...the break looks pretty clean to me, with no precursors. Your valve springs look pretty mild and the Perf cam is pretty small. Rail rockers can sometimes contribute to this fatigue but I'm not sure if that's what I'm seeing...

Post the rest of the engine specs besides the Edelbrock stuff, along with drivetrain and use and we'll see how much of your money we can spend...*G*p
 
Damn Bill, all of our stuff is breaking!! First me, then Kent, then me AGAIN, then someone else, now you... yikes....

Leads to the question...

who's next????
 
who's next????

In light of recent events on the personal front, all I can say is that I'm happy it's just car parts which are breaking...definitely painful to the pocketbook but eminently survivable *G*

I'll try very hard to break one of mine next....hehehe
 
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