230 is pushing it....

youre discovering most electric fans cant handle a V8 by themselves.

 

its the one summit said was the best for my set up!

chris

 

Around 190-210...Are you running an aluminum rad?

 

Speaking strictly from a performance standpoint, SBF's are cold-blooded; the cooler you can run the engine, as long as the lubes are fully warm, the better it will run. Since I could precisely adjust the temps in the race car engine by manipulating the marine water pump and electric fan, I spent much time quantifying and logging the parameters. IME, in most atmospheric conditions, having an operating temperature at the starting line of around 140 deg F gave the best and most consistent performance.

So, if I was mainly concerned about performance in my street car, I'd run a 160 deg T-stat.

 

a clean running cooling system is the best defence agaist high temps. Try to do the at home back flush and see how much crud comes out. If none then your ok but if its enough to notice,then your dirty block or water is causing blockage in the radiator.

 

Yeah, a 160 thermostat is also what I run, but I don't have a hotrod. And the post didn't indicate he did either. The thermostat doesn't even open until the block water reaches the 160 F stage. Running 220 or above indicates a need to either do what John suggested, and/or go to a larger or aluminum radiator. If it were mine, I'd first do the flush, then change the thermostat. If it still ran hot, I'd look into getting a new larger rad, and add an overflow tank. I don't use electric fans...I prefer the 6 blade variety and a shroud. The shroud is especially beneficial in stop and go traffic. The benefits of the electric fan, is that it takes less Horsepower to run it, that's all.

 

are you forgeting the added MPG?

 

One more benefit, for those of us who operate in traffic - the better electric fans outperform engine-driven fans at idle - always. Unfortunately an issue here in So Cal -

 

As most have stated, the problem is probably your radiator being clogged. How old is it? You might want to pull it and have a radiator shop check it out, they're generally pretty up front with you, and will tell you if they can clean it or it needs to be replaced.

The good news is you have a later model car. Those of us that have the '64-66's have a smaller opening in the radiator support, which means more narrow radiators, which necessitates things like aluminum construction. I think my last radiator lasted just under 4 years, and had to be replaced because of salt damage to the fins on about 5% of the area. Point being here, that since you have a later model, you probably don't have to go as extream as an aluminum radiator, you just need a clean one.

Oh, guess I should answer your original question too. This is what temperatures meant to me (195* t-stat to help keep engine sludge from forming):
180-200: All is good
205: Hmm, better keep an eye on it
215: Something is wrong
220: look for a place to pull over
230: Pull over ASAP
240: Shut engine off and coast (which will cause your temp to go even higher)

250-260 Start worrying about engine damage.

 

the intire set up is bran new !

the "painless" wireing kit for the fan kicks on at 180*

chris