I have a 69 mach 1 with 351w 4 brrl, mild cam, long tube headers, weiand stealth intake. I'm using 600 cfm edelbrock 1406 and my friend is selling his holley street avenger 80670 670 cfm carb. Has anyone used this carb? will I get a performance gain? Looking for low end gain.
holley 80670 670 CFM on 1969 mach 1?
rindel
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I have a 69 mach 1 with 351w 4 brrl, mild cam, long tube headers, weiand stealth intake. I'm using 600 cfm edelbrock 1406 and my friend is selling his holley street avenger 80670 670 cfm carb. Has anyone used this carb? will I get a performance gain? Looking for low end gain.
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6,133 Posts
Going on general carb theory that velocity helps low end oomph then the bigger one should hurt...but its a Holley
Cathedral bowls to fight g-force fuel starvation and as per summit tune able metering blocks (rabbit holes) Holley 101 engineering can be fun if you like to be thorough and well read on the subject.
Cathedral bowls to fight g-force fuel starvation and as per summit tune able metering blocks (rabbit holes) Holley 101 engineering can be fun if you like to be thorough and well read on the subject.
Current cars include 1969 Mach 1 and 1970 Cougar XR7 convertible
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9,006 Posts
I've used that carb with both a power enhanced 390 and a bone stock 351W car. In my experience, it is an excellent plug and play product in both applications. If there is a power gain with the Holley on the street, my seat of the pants butt-o-meter can't tell. From a tuning standpoint, Holleys tend to be more tunable than Edelbrocks. My bias is that I am familiar with Holleys and less so with Edelbrocks.
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1,456 Posts
The 670SA will be fine. Be advised that they are pretty lean out of the box and many suffer off idle stumble issues which require some accelerator pump cam/nozzle fiddling. I have had good luck with a 31 squirter and the blue cam. Also some have reported issues with the pump lever riding on the return spring rather than the pump cam which delays the pump shot causing stumble issues. If that is the case some judicious blacksmithing is in order. The stock ifr is usually .028 which should be ok for a stock or near stock 351w. If you do performance upgrades you may need to increase it by 2 or 3 thou.
The metering blocks use emulsion tubes in the main wells rather than the typical e holes in the block. On older carbs the holes in the tubes can become plugged with corrosion/debris which will create issues. If you find yourself in this situation just replace the block with one for a 600cfm 1850 carb. They are available new for about $30.00.
The metering blocks use emulsion tubes in the main wells rather than the typical e holes in the block. On older carbs the holes in the tubes can become plugged with corrosion/debris which will create issues. If you find yourself in this situation just replace the block with one for a 600cfm 1850 carb. They are available new for about $30.00.
original carb to 1969 351w mach 1?
I bought my car in 2014 and it came with an edelbrock but the owner gave me an old carb motorcraft d4pe ba a 3j 5. He wasn't sure if it was original to the car though. Does anyone have the history or info on these carbs?
I bought my car in 2014 and it came with an edelbrock but the owner gave me an old carb motorcraft d4pe ba a 3j 5. He wasn't sure if it was original to the car though. Does anyone have the history or info on these carbs?
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3,548 Posts
I had one on a previous motor and it worked well. They do have a 3 different springs you can choose from for your driving style, one I believe is the most performance oriented, the other is for the best fuel economy and think it comes stock with the "in between the two" spring. I never had any issues with the carburetor and actually gave it to my father to put on his 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner with a 383/4spd and myself went to a 650 Holley Ultra Double Pumper. Still runs quite well. That being said, simply swapping carburetors, unless your current one doesn't run very well right now, I don't think you're going to notice a big difference.
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