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1965 Survivor C Code "No idea what I'm doing" Build

16K views 124 replies 25 participants last post by  MrFaustie  
#1 ·
Hey all, guess I'll make my forum introduction as a build post! Probably won't be a very exciting or fast build post as I'm not just broke, but pretty sure I've already spent up to next Aprils paychecks.

I've worked on my cars most of my life, but I've never dived into engine internals or restoration before, so this build is going to be a BIG learning experience for me. I finally have my own garage instead of an apartment! I've been redecorating in Harbor Freight Chic.

I've been waiting for my son to become a teenager to start a father/son car project so I can teach him how to wrench, do the basics, and just in general work with his hands. We can't do too much on the little shoebox I drive daily so I scoured Craigslist and Facebook, eBay, and AutoTrader for months looking for an early 70s Charger or Dart, but started seeing Mustangs and remembered how much I've always wanted one. I then came across what I wanted to be my families "Heirloom Car".

A 1965 C Code, mostly original down to the nuts and bolts, survivor. No rebuilds on the engine or transmission, even comes with the dealer paperwork and original tiny 1965 title and inspection sticker. Typical story that she was a girls first car in high school, who drove the heck out of it for 20 years then put it into storage until now. I'm the second owner and the entire history of the car is known. All 146000 miles of it.

Seller runs a restoration shop and did the basics on it. New gas tank and carb, cap/rotor/wires/plugs, new steering hoses (though they installed the wrong ones, and badly), tires, rebuilt the drums, etc. Enough to get it running and mostly driving. The fresh non matching paint you see on the rear was due to them backing it into something at the shop and I had them replace the extension at the back of the fender.

Advertised as "Only surface rust except 2 spots on the driver side, no rot in the floorboard or trunk! Engine runs great, but valves are probably bad."

I bought it without ever seeing it in person, only pictures, a couple videos, and a phone call.

Day one she arrived and like the brilliant brain scientist/rocket surgeon I strive to be, my inspection amounted to "oooh she's pretty" and I promptly handed over a wad of money.

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Needless to say, once it was just her and I, she immediately started squealing and screeching and refused to run, which took me a whole day to track down to a loose carb bolt causing the worlds biggest vacuum leak. But, in the process of troubleshooting she did get all new belts at least. Then the front brakes fell apart 1 mile into our first journey, then my son discovered the floor was wet, REALLY wet and it turns out they had let it sit in the rain for a couple days before I got it.

First project time! Pull the whole interior and replace the carpet/jute/deadener. What do you think I found under the carpet in my new "rust free" mustang?

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Definitely not rust, on both sides. But, to his credit, when I called the seller he agreed to cover most of the cost to have the floorboards redone at a local to me shop (thats where the car is right now) since it was other than advertised. The rest of the floors are 100% solid, not even surface rust. I went through with a fine toothed comb after finding that surprise. The trunk....is another matter. It too has rust around the wheel wells, but I'll fix it.

So with nothing to do in the meantime, we changed the shocks on it to new KYBs (which ended up being way harder than I thought), changed my gassy fragrant oil (leaky pump), sent her off to a restoration shop literally 1/2 a mile from my house (lucky) and now I'm gathering a giant pile of parts thanks to Kentucky Mustangs 10% off sale. Thus far I have:

New ACC carpet with their backing and jute added to it along with kick panels and the package tray and backing for both.
Everything I need to rebuild the front suspension: U/L Control arms, a million rubber bushings, end links, coil springs and greaseable saddles, new gas lines.
An entire lower steering unit from Chocko (3 days from ordering, including a holiday!).
A plethora of brackets and wire organizers, looms, and every hose in the engine bay.
Enough Wix filters to purify the world.
1 rubber/cork forest worth of gaskets.
A heater rebuilt kit + a heater core with extended tubes
Window and door seals, windlace, etc
Currently negotiating for a brand new Weiand Warrior intake.

I will be keeping everything I take off as I slowly mod her, and for the major parts like the control arms I will be cleaning them up gently and likely selling them for those looking for concours stuff. They're savable.

I spent 3 days restoring the shifter, only new parts are the rubber seals and the plastic bushing but it made a HUGE difference. The transmission is MINT, but the shifter had wiggle like a 4 speed in neutral. Now it's perfect.

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So that's where we sit, just south of Houston waiting for her to come back with new floors so we can get started. She doesn't run too badly but she does make you cough with rich exhaust and kicks up some smoke when she starts. But she runs and sounds pretty darn good with her intact factory muffler.

Plans include mostly stock replacements for things, I want a "drive her as we fix her up" style of restoration/restomod. A head rebuild will be in a few weeks as I have a great local machine shop, then next year sometime I will pull the motor and see where we're at cylinder wise. Likely go as small of a bore as I can, and maybe stroke the engine a little bit. Undecided, but a rebuild is a 100% certainty. I need it to be 100% solid, a little higher compression (darn C code...) and I want quite a bit more pep in her step.
 
#3 ·
Welcome, I’ll be following
 
#5 ·
Welcome! Good luck with your family project.
Thanks! Kiddo is excited to learn and asks me every night if we can go wrench for a bit.


Had one that looked just like that back in the ‘80s, must have put 25,000 miles on it till it literally rusted out below me. (289, 4 speed).
289/C4 here, we'll see if I stay with that combo or give in to the strong urge for a third pedal. The transmission is so solid and strong, it may stay in there.


We had a lot of fun pulling the interior, the back seat is a hoot to remove I think it took us all of 12 seconds.

Old ratty carpet goin out.

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New, less ratty carpet ready to go in when she comes back.

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I'm going to change up the interior a little, instead of being red on red on red on red, I'll throw in some matching Wimbledon here and there (dash re-paint, seat inserts, etc).

I also think I'll get a rally pac housing and put some custom gauges in it. I don't like not having tach/oil gauges.
 
#7 ·
Welcome! Looks like a great project.

If you're in the trunk, I'd love to see some pictures of the original seam sealer application around the bumper mounts. Long story short, I'm trying to replicate what mine originally looked like, but I only have some marginal 640 x 480 old video that doesn't show things too well.
 
#9 ·
Welcome!! Off to a great start. The shifter work alone is nice & tidy.
Thanks! I put a lot of elbow grease into it, nice warmup for getting the crusty engine clean next.

Welcome! Looks like a great project.

If you're in the trunk, I'd love to see some pictures of the original seam sealer application around the bumper mounts. Long story short, I'm trying to replicate what mine originally looked like, but I only have some marginal 640 x 480 old video that doesn't show things too well.
Sure, when it comes back from the shop I can take a look.

Welcome to the circus. It's hard to spot rust with buyers eyes. One unsolicited tip, which may be too late, don't throw away any parts you remove.
That I already know! I've got a big pile that I will either clean up and sell, rebuild/restore for my own use, or use for size/part references later. Carpet for example I kept for locating holes and trim lines.

Only original part that was taken off and not given to me was the gas tank, which is a shame. I do have the original carb though.
 
#11 ·
Very cool that the seller is being honorable with covering the rust free floor repair. Don't find that too often. Good luck with the project and continue to post updates. I have the ACC carpet in a box for my fastback that should be going in soon. Interested to hear your thoughts on how well it fits when you get to that point.
 
#12 ·
Sweet car. I love the idea of painting the dash white for contrast.

Regarding the water leakage - have you checked the cowl?
I found some inspiration images online of a white and red color scheme for the dash and it just looked too good not to pursue. It's very pretty as is, but it's also a LOT of red haha.

On the cowl, I got in there with dental mirrors and yeah it has some rust in it that will let water through, but its really not that bad! It has a lot less rot under there than most that I looked at, really just a couple of quarter sized holes. Most of the water is from the windshield seal, which is only about 30% remaining. She will be a fair weather only car for a good long time.


Very cool that the seller is being honorable with covering the rust free floor repair. Don't find that too often. Good luck with the project and continue to post updates. I have the ACC carpet in a box for my fastback that should be going in soon. Interested to hear your thoughts on how well it fits when you get to that point.
I was pretty happy that the seller was honest too, would have been a headache/fight otherwise.

Hopefully I'll have some updates starting this weekend, the shop said the floorboards should be done by end of week.

In the meantime I've been taking full advantage of the Home Depot black friday sales. Got some Milwaukee cordless ratchets, some husky shelving, impact sockets, etc. Should help out a lot as I've been using all 20yr old Stanley hand tools up to this point.
 
#15 ·
Thanks! Most of the parts are fairly affordable too. Being able to redo 100% of the suspension and 90% of the steering for less than 2k is amazing.

Next thing I need to do is figure out heads. Mine are in very rough shape and I'm trying to decide whether to have them rebuilt and get me by for awhile, or just pick up some AFRs and a cam and convert to roller.
 
#18 ·
It's been a couple yrs but last time I had heads rebuilt is was about $600 at the local machine shop. Prob $800+ now. AFR165 heads are awesome, run them currently. But they're $2k+ now. Default valve spring for AFR is roller springs. Exchange springs are free if you order from AFR directly.
Yeah, a local shop quoted me 850 for a full rebuild (valve job, guides, springs, yadda, yadda). I hate doing expensive things twice and I know I'll get heads later, so I may go the "buy once cry once" route.

That's a good point on the springs, I could always get the heads with both sets of springs then swap to roller later.


Did I miss whether you have purchased a complete bolt kit yet? Was Very handy for me.
I haven't! Which one did you get? Thus far, all the bolts and screws I've pulled off various places have been in great shape after a few minutes with a brass brush.
 
#22 ·
Yeah, a local shop quoted me 850 for a full rebuild (valve job, guides, springs, yadda, yadda). I hate doing expensive things twice and I know I'll get heads later, so I may go the "buy once cry once" route.

That's a good point on the springs, I could always get the heads with both sets of springs then swap to roller later.




I haven't! Which one did you get? Thus far, all the bolts and screws I've pulled off various places have been in great shape after a few minutes with a brass brush.
Master body kit 461 piece.
Everything based and labeled.
 
#19 ·
Luckily for you, you have a willing helper. Definitely put the boy to work and be there to guide him. The experience of a father/son project is something that will be a part of your lives forever!
 
#27 ·
That "was" one of my favourite tools as well but has been replaced by a large range of Milwaukee grinders and a Miller All-In-One welder. Wrenching has been replaced for a while, funny how these old cars just tell you what you need when they need it.
 
#24 ·
Started a tear down of the external bits today. Alternator is off and I'm going to need to replace parts of that harness, lots of dried and cracked wires.

The coil hot, temp sensor, and oil sending unit wire are all kinds of tangled together and the electric choke is spliced in there as well. So I'm going to need to clean all that up.

Pulled the spark plug wires in anticipation of taking the heads off in a few days.

Got to looking at the PS pump to find where the leak is coming from, and it looks like the guy who sold it to me used fuel hose as the line you can see in this pic. Looked underneath and confirmed, fuel hose all the way to the control valve. That can't be right... Maybe the housing doesn't actually leak? I'll need to investigate more before I install the new one I bought.

My battery tray also looks a little bit mossy.

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Drained the cooling system, pulled all the hoses, and I found an unpleasant surprise.

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I think my thermostat housing joined Davey Jones crew. Pulled it and the inside of the intake manifold isn't nearly as bad, but does have some small barnacles growing in it. I'm guessing the 30 or so years this was sitting in storage, it had (mostly tap water) coolant in it. Decided to take a break for the night because I'm not sure I want to go down this rabbit hole right now. I'm going to guess all the coolant passages on the block, and in the heads, look like Carlsbad Caverns.

Maybe I'll just cover it with a rag and pretend I didn't see it.

Also, what does the little bypass hose actually do? It's always in the way and I've seen a few people plug it.
 
#28 ·
I do need to get more "general" shop tools, would make my life a lot easier. Need to watch facebook marketplace for a cheap decent bench grinder for cleaning stuff up, a vice, etc.

Also learning to weld is on the list, just have to manufacture some time to do it. Between having custody of my kiddo, caring for my grandma on hospice who I moved in with me, and work there's not much time left in the day.

I'm doin everything by hand with brushes right now haha.


THAT SAID, going to pull the trigger on a Weiand Street Warrior and a Holley 600cfm. Along with all the bolts/gaskets/etc I'll need.

The carb is a little too big for this engine and I won't make full use of it, but I'm getting one brand new in box for 200 bucks and I will be going with bigger heads, more compression, and a better cam in the very near future. Tax return time is juuuust around the corner.
 
#29 ·
Today I pulled everything off the top of the engine and went to pull off the manifold and learned that it had heat welded itself via the melded gaskets. 4 hours of struggle later I took a trip to Harbor Freight and got a 48" breaker bar.

Got the intake off in 10 seconds with it. HAH.

Here it is ladies and gents, the unmolested block.

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#30 ·
Didn't make too much progress today, have been caring for my grandmother almost full time.

I did pull the exhaust manifolds, PS pump, and all of the pushrods and broke most of the head bolts loose. I was going to try and get the heads to the machine shop tomorrow, but it will have to be later in the week.

I had oil on all the spark plug threads, so the valve cover gaskets were bad (knew that already) but none on the plug itself so looks like I don't have too much blowby, that's a good sign.

I will say that anywhere I find oil, it really smells like gas. I know a leaky fuel pump can cause that, but this is supposedly a brand new one and it looks new. Any other causes that aren't bad rings?
 
#31 ·
Not sure if anyone has seen my other thread, but my engine was far from untouched and has quite a few issues.

I'm pulling it and rebuilding it, just ordered a hoist and a stand. This will slow my project down a lot since some of my body/interior/drivetrain budget is going to go into the engine, but it's about the journey not the destination right? Plus if I have the engine out, it'll make redoing all the steering and suspension parts way easier.

Might be cheaper to get a crate engine, since I plan to go the Trick Flow heads/link bar lifter route. But this will be a lot more fun and I can do it a piece at a time.
 
#33 ·
This has become my priority one, once I get everything priced out I'll hopefully have the engine done inside 6 months or just go ahead and finance a crate engine. I'm...impulsive. Actually found a guy local to me that's waiting for a warranty repair from Blueprint and is looking to offload it once it shows up, for a few grand less. It's a very basic 302 HO, I'm very tempted.

I actually sold one of the guitars, a beautiful Sapphire PRS SE Custom 22. Remaining for sale is a PRS SE Mark Holcomb SVN and a 2019 PRS SE 24 Custom Limited with a roasted maple neck.

Second one was REALLY hard to find, bit it just doesn't vibe with me so I never play it, if i that makes sense.