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tiancent

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Well over the weekend we installed a 200ci that I bought. It came with a Autolite carb, which after some research found out its a Holley 1940. The thing doesn't want to start, it turns over but after a few tries the battery drains. We got it to start a couple of times but we had to keep the gas pedal floored(and it still jumped and hesitated). We used the distributor that was on the previous engine (68 200ci) and just replaced the coil last night. BTW the car is a 66'.
Thanks guys we are stumped and this is our first engine install so we have lots to learn.
 
Ah, OK, the Autolite and the Holley are different carbs. Ford used the Holley as a Service Replacement after the Autolite went out of production. Both are good carbs, but the Autolite is a bit simpler. I'm thinking you need to rebuild the carb, it sounds like the idle circuit is clogged.

Autolite 1100-

Image


Holley 1940-

Image
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
OK thanks. The carb is exactly like the bottom one but says Autolite. That really sucks because the kid claimed to have had it rebuilt before he upgraded his car to a 250. Would the battery draining be another issue or somehow related?
 
Couple of things: Just because he said he rebuilt it doesn't mean he did, or that it was done correctly.

When trying to get a car to start work from the basics.

1) Does it have spark? Pull a plug, ground the plug, turn it over and make sure it has spark. You can also do this with just the wire itself too.

2) Does it have fuel? Check that fuel is pumping into the carb. (Disconnect the line turn engine and see if fuel comes out) If it is, make sure that fuel is getting from the carb to the engine. You can (be careful) pour a little little bit of fuel down the carb and try to start it. I fit starts when you manually add fuel, you might have a carb issue. Watch yourself, a backfire can be dangerous.

3) Does it have spark after its done starting and when it running. You can have a situation where you have spark while the starter is engaged and not while its in run mode. There are different circuits that power the coil in start mode vs. run mode.

4) Is the timing set correctly? Bad timing = bad mojo.

Good Luck.
 
Might not be the problem, but if the distributor is from a '68 and the carb on there was designed for a '66, I think the advance mechanism will not match (the '66 carb has a valve to advance timing, while the '68 uses a mechanical advance, IIRC). Not sure that would cause such a huge problem for maintaining an idle, but something to investigate.
 
Look for a spark control valve on the 1940

That will clue you in as to whether its for a pre-68 carb.

I'm in the same boat. Mine car came with a 1940. But the distributor is a '65. No clue how the advance is working.
 
The 1940 in our 65 will not come out of fast idle unless I open the hood and do it manually.

I would rather have the 1100.
 
My (relatively newly refurbished) 1100 hates to come out of fast idle on a cold day as well... Just a related side question- how hard is it to swap out the automatic choke for a manually operated one?
 
My (relatively newly refurbished) 1100 hates to come out of fast idle on a cold day as well... Just a related side question- how hard is it to swap out the automatic choke for a manually operated one?
I have never seen a satisfactory manual conversion for the 1100. Some early Falcon 1100 carbs came with a manual choke, but I suspect they are also smaller. I've done well by just making sure the auto is operating properly. Amazing how well they respond to a thorough cleaning and adjustment.
 
I've got a large venturi (have to look up the cfm) 1100 with a manual choke on my car, since there's no clearance for an auto choke with the 3x1. Jon Enyeart @ Pony Carbs recommended the specific setup and built the carbs for me back in the early '90s, so I guess it's possible it's not an off-the-shelf piece.

I ran a parts-store manual choke mounted through a flipped vent knob bracket for years on this car, I've got the K-code choke to go in this time.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
yes I have checked that the carb is getting fuel. Will have to check for spark though. And I cant do 3 because the car wont stay running...
I've figured the distributor might also have something to do with it but from what I have read it would just run lousy, which in our case it is not even starting.
Haven't had time to work on it the last few days but hopefully some good news within the next couple of days. Thanks guys.
 
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