Thanks Bart. I will try that this evening.

Thanks for all your help.

 

Ok so it looks like I have a "Crank, no Start".

I tested the coil and everything is good there. The rotor looks new with no burn marks.

The car has fuel, and it is getting to the carb. However I am not sure about the spark.
Could it be the Ingnitor in the distributer.

 

Go ahead and check for spark. If you have a timing light you can use that attached to the coil wire and just look to see if it flashes. If not, you can place the wire near a ground and crank the engine and look for spark. If that seems hard you can have your teenage son hold the coil wire while you crank the engine (just kidding). If you don't have any spark it could be the igniter, if you have replaced the points with one, or a broken wire between there and the coil, or no juice to the coil or a bad coil.

You can test coil resistance with an ohmmeter (just google "ignition coil resistance test"). You can also check coil wire resistance (google "spark plug wire resistance"). If both pass and you have voltage at the coil when the key is "ON" and you don't have spark it's likely the igniter.

 

You need to get your definitions in order...

When you say "it won't turn over", that means that the engine doesn't turn or "crank" when the key is turned to start. If that's what you mean, you need to investigate the starter, the starter solenoid, ignition switch and associated wiring.

If the car cranks normally and won't catch and run, that is a "crank, no start" condition. You need to determine if the car has spark and fuel. If it has both, you may have a timing issue.


John

 

yes

 

Post some pictures of the wiring. Pictures can't hurt.

 

Hey Bart thanks for getting back.

The battery is new and has a charge and gas is getting to the carb.

One thing I noticed was the connection from the ignition to the relay was pretty old. Could that be it?

The coil looks new but the wiring seemed off. There were two wires going to the negative side rather than the positive.

Could that be it?

 

The coil looks new but the wiring seemed off. There were two wires going to the negative side rather than the positive.

Could that be it?

Unlikely - probably a tach wire and the points.

Since you said that you have fuel going into the carb then I'll focus on the ignition. When was the last time you changed the points?

Since you don't know much about cars go to the local parts store or harbor-freight type store and pick up a "spark tester" - they look like this and they're about $5 - just unhook a plug wire from the plug and put that in-line and have someone crank the engine over and see if the light flashes:

I'm going to guess that you have no spark - next it's time to check the points by hooking that between the coil wire and distributor cap and then pulling the distributor cap, 'tapping' over the engine until you have the points visably open. Next with the ignition on "RUN" position - take a screwdriver between the intake manifold or block and then tap it on the negative terminal of the coil (you can also do it with a jumper wire - works better) - watch and see if you have spark (light flash) - if so the points/condensor is bad - replace them. If no spark you next need to test for voltage at the coil. You'll need a voltmeter or a test light... use it on the + side of the coil - if you have voltage at the coil then you have a bad ignition coil.

 

Question #1 - Does it crank normally but not start? If not, have you had the battery charged and tested?

Question #2 - Have you checked for fuel in the carburetor by working the accelerator linkage while looking down the front bores and seeing gas spray? If it doesn't, check for an obstruction in the fuel line or filter.

Question #3 - Have you checked for spark by removing the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap, affixing it (a clothespin works well) so that the metal end is 1/4" away from a good ground (unpainted metal surface on motor, like intake manifold) and cranking the engine? You should have a nice, crisp, blue spark. If not, you have a problem with the ignition system.

Further ignition tests:

1. Check for voltage at the coil+ terminal with the key "ON". If none, possible causes are bad ignition switch or resistance wire.

2. If you still have contact points and condenser, remove distributor cap and rotor and, with key "OFF", slightly open the points with a popsicle stick and look at the contact surfaces for burn marks. Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and again put 1/4" from a good ground and, with the key "ON", open and close the points with the popsicle stick. Each time you do this the wire should spark. If not, you have a bad coil, coil wire or problem between the coil- terminal and the points (or a shorted condensor). Check these with on ohmmeter.

3. Remove the wire from the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid. Check for battery voltage when cranking the engine at the terminal. If none, replace the solenoid.

If the spark plug wires are old, a bad coil wire is a common problem.