My son's 67 has a small leak around the passenger cowl hat. I the next few weeks I will be removing his heater box. As I'm not sure how bad the rust is I'm trying to have a plan. Already have a hat repair kit, Now here is what I'm thinking clean out cowl area real good with water and air. After it dries with a large syringe pump up some POR 15 work it around the best I can. Then paint the underside after cleaning it and then install the hat kit. Any ideas or suggestions other than cutting it all out, as that is not an option at this time. Jeff
1967 cowl rust
jah141
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My son's 67 has a small leak around the passenger cowl hat. I the next few weeks I will be removing his heater box. As I'm not sure how bad the rust is I'm trying to have a plan. Already have a hat repair kit, Now here is what I'm thinking clean out cowl area real good with water and air. After it dries with a large syringe pump up some POR 15 work it around the best I can. Then paint the underside after cleaning it and then install the hat kit. Any ideas or suggestions other than cutting it all out, as that is not an option at this time. Jeff
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7,699 Posts
Flame suite on.
Back in the day (1975) my cowl leaked on my 67. It was only the top hat portion that was bad. I used a margerine tub with the bottom cut out and made my own repair. It was there for 30+ years. I used a rust converter and treated the area as bset I could inside and out. I redid the interior about 10 years ago and bought the repair kit and redid them. Nothing was wrong, just felt like doing it since the interior was out. Mind you that I was 17 the first time I did it and had no money to do anything. Also, mine was a daily driver at the time.
If the hats will solve your problem, to me it a much better solution than the plexiglass cover over the vents.
Flame suite off.
Back in the day (1975) my cowl leaked on my 67. It was only the top hat portion that was bad. I used a margerine tub with the bottom cut out and made my own repair. It was there for 30+ years. I used a rust converter and treated the area as bset I could inside and out. I redid the interior about 10 years ago and bought the repair kit and redid them. Nothing was wrong, just felt like doing it since the interior was out. Mind you that I was 17 the first time I did it and had no money to do anything. Also, mine was a daily driver at the time.
If the hats will solve your problem, to me it a much better solution than the plexiglass cover over the vents.
Flame suite off.
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2,881 Posts
No flame suit needed Dave. When you're 17 there's no such thing as a bad idea, and it worked!
To the OP: go for it. I would try anything to not have to cut all that stuff out.
To the OP: go for it. I would try anything to not have to cut all that stuff out.
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59,923 Posts
Here's what I'd do, after the heater box is removed. I'd get a good, strong light up there and inspect the area thoroughly. If it's TRULY just the "''hat" area that has a few pinholes, I'd get a Schutz gun with a flexible wand and spray the inside with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, apply the "hat repair", sealing the edges, then give it another coating. I'd then shoot a coat of Encapsulator on the outside, just around the hole. This should give you quite a few years of "temporary" repair as long as you keep the cowl free from stuff that would plug up the drain holes.
Down the road you can address a permanent repair, when you are ready. To help matters, you can get a piece of magnetically impregnated vinyl, in a color close to your cars, and cut it to make a cowl cover for the outside to seal the cowl when not driving.
Down the road you can address a permanent repair, when you are ready. To help matters, you can get a piece of magnetically impregnated vinyl, in a color close to your cars, and cut it to make a cowl cover for the outside to seal the cowl when not driving.
G
Guest
·It's always going to be worse than you think. Cut the sides off, after you realize there is more rust. Its not the best way, but you can do a much better job than not. And . . don't use POR. Buy some Master Series silver.
Have to agree with PetesPonies, don't use the POR. POR requires their cleaner and all rust to be cleaned up. That's pretty much impossible in the cowl.
You might consider Eastwood's internal frame coating. It's supposed to stick to areas that you can't get to with a wire wheel or solvents, and it comes with a really fun wand. I used it inside my rockers, but have no idea if it really works, because it's inside the rockers...
You might consider Eastwood's internal frame coating. It's supposed to stick to areas that you can't get to with a wire wheel or solvents, and it comes with a really fun wand. I used it inside my rockers, but have no idea if it really works, because it's inside the rockers...
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59,923 Posts
Both Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and Master Series are polyurethanes and will encapsule the rust in a non-moisture-permeable membrane. Without moisture and oxygen rust can not develop. Both are good products. If you lack a spray outfit you could even apply it inside the cowl with a cheap (read: disposable) 1-gallon hardware store pump sprayer.
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