[Will-E]

I HATE not doing things right and you guys ARE helping.

I'm trying to pull some strings to borrow a 60 gal 220V single phase compressor and then I'll have to get a double pull 30A breaker installed and I think I have open 2 slots in my garage panel to make this work.

No disrespect to counter people but Pete you raise a good point. This guy may not have pulled the trigger of a gun in the last decade. What size would you suggest is ideal?

Considering a new tip for this gun is going to cost me at least $35+, would I be better off buying a new harbor freight gravity feed gun? My only concern is how well does gravity feed spray when your're spraying upside down (undercarriage)??

 

[horseman]

I know my compressor is far less than ideal size but it spread the primer just fine. I'd love to get a big one but I can't afford that now. It ran a heck of a lot and I was spaying while it was running (otherwise it would have taken me 2 weeks to prime). I couldn't see any problems as a result and that may be due to that I live in a very dry climate where 30% is considered "high humidity".

I do appreciate the advice and as much as I'd prefer to have a larger compressor, I think I'm going to have to press on and see what happens. I noticed with the primer that my gun regulator was ranging between 25 - 35 when compressor was running but I couldn't really tell that it was impacting anything. After a while I could listen and hear when it fell below low 20s and then I'd sit and wait for it to recover. This may have been becuase it was primer but also could be that I'm just a rookie and not experienced enough in painting.

Having the pressure change like that at your gun will be real trouble when you go to spray color and clear. You simply don't see all the issues in the primer. You will see ALL of them in the paint and it is also much less forgiving than primer. Get a better compressor. And a small gun tip.

 

[Guest]

Well because it is a siphon feed, they use larger tip than gravity feed guns. So maybe the 1.8 will work in this situation. It's going to paint fast and throw some air, I'm sure of that. So getting that larger compressor is going to help. Do you have a valance you could paint first to try it out???

 

[Will-E]

Well because it is a siphon feed, they use larger tip than gravity feed guns. So maybe the 1.8 will work in this situation. It's going to paint fast and throw some air, I'm sure of that. So getting that larger compressor is going to help. Do you have a valance you could paint first to try it out???

I've since talked a Devilbiss tech guy and once he found out I was working on a '68 Mustang he became extremely helpful (he used to have a '67).

He assured me the 1.8 will be fine so I decided I'm going to try it. He also went into a lot of detail about setting up this particular "older" gun. I had an extra hood for my '68 Camaro that I've hung on to for 15 years but unfortunately sold it recently (whatever I can turn into cash has been helping fund the Mustang)., I'm pretty sure I got some various sheets of metal at home in the shed and I'll dig those out.

The guy at Devilbiss told me that quick connects can cause pressure drop issues and to not use them if possible. I've curretnly got 3 in my lines to gun so will remove those and connect directly. I've been using a 50' hose and I think a 25' will do and that should also help. I wasn't able to get the 60 gal 220V compressor but I will have a 30 gal unit which will still be a huge improvement. Should be a busy/fun wknd. ahead - wetsand all day tomorrow and then hopfully practice and spray on Sunday.

 

[Guest]

Do you have 1/4" or 3/8" quick connects?

 

[Will-E]

Do you have 1/4" or 3/8" quick connects?

All my hoses are 3/8" and the quick connects are your typical type that go with those hoses. That said, I assume they're 3/8". Is that what they commonly are? Ideally, I'd prefer to leave a disconnect to the gun to make it easier when I go back for re-filling while painting.

Pete - I'm pretty sure it was you and/or someone else that were guiding me away from the 1.8 tip. As you may recall, this paint tech sheet recommends 1.3 - 1.8. I spent the entire wknd. wetsanding and did not get around to painting this weekend. Takes a lot of time to get into all the nooks and make sure surfaces are cleaned well. Wow - that was a job in itself. 5 hours alone just on the eng. compartment and about another dozen on the rest of the chassis, wheel wells etc. Came out really nice and smooth everywhere.

So now that I personally have become so acquainted with how much prep work is involved, I don't want to screw up the next/final step. I can get a 1.3 or a 1.5 tip from Devilbiss. Which would be better for a novice painter?

 

[Will-E]

Update: Talked to Devilbiss again and they discontinue sellng parts & tips for this gun.

He recommends backing off trigger adjuster and it should do a decent job with the 1.8 tip or getting this system that will spary from any angle well and do all paints/primers.

Kit # DPC 654 with Acc. 160-200 (allows gravity feed to spray well even upside down).

 

[Guest]

Willie, typical connects are 1/4", not 3/8". Even though the hose is 3/8, they are 1/4". tHAt can be a restriction for air flow. You can get 3/8" that will connect to your same hose.

 

[Will-E]

Willie, typical connects are 1/4", not 3/8". Even though the hose is 3/8, they are 1/4". tHAt can be a restriction for air flow. You can get 3/8" that will connect to your same hose.

Very good to know - I never realized there was a difference/options.

can you get the 3/8 at Harbor freight or home depot? Are the male ends the same and quick disconnects the only diff? Or do you have to have male & female that are 3/8" to be compatible?

 

[Woodchuck]

If you want to get a 1.8mm tip here are some links...

Sorry, I just saw that you already HAD a 1.8 tip. There's a couple places that have the 1.4mm tip also, just Google/Bing JGA-4046-14.

 

[Guest]

Yes you can look for 3/8" connectors at Lowes, Home Depot, Tractor Supply, maybe Harbor Freight too.

 

[Woodchuck]

The male quick connect at the end of your gun's handle is 1/4". If you're going to replace it make sure the replacement Q.C. is NPS(M), not NPT.

 

[Will-E]

Thanks for the added info. on the disconnects. I'll be sure to upgrade those to 3/8"

After Devilbiss told me they no longer sold the tips I decided to invest in a new setup.
I've spent so much time in getting this looking so well and I want the paint to do it justice. I found a great deal from TCP. Their prices were much better than Eastwood and Summit and they also have free shipping. This Devilbiss Finish Line 4 kit was rated very well and comes w/4 tips: 1.3 - 2.2 and can even spray house paint (my justification for buying to wife). With the DEKUPPS system attachments, you can spray upside down which was a huge selling point for me. It should also be alot easier on my compressor to operate and good enough quality kit to paint the entire car in a couple years.



DEV FLG4-MASTER
Devilbiss HVLP SPRAY PAINT GUN-FinishLine 4 MASTER KIT-1.3 1.5 1.8 2.2 Regulator**Kit Consists of***

EBAY PRICE 191231806880 $229.99
DEV FLG-332-22K
FLUID TIP, SEAL & TIP KIT 2.2m WATERBORNE GUN 2.2mm TIP
DEV BXX-1250
92246 SINGLE GUN STORAGE CASE
DEV FLG-670
803558 FINISHLINE 4 SPRAY GUN VALUE KIT HVLP( 1.3, 1.5, 1.8)
DEV DPC-654-KIT
DeVILBISS DeKUPS DISPOSABLE CUPS SYSTEM Hvlp Spray Gun FinishLine GTI PLUS TEKNA**Kit Consists of***

EABY PRICE 390885552991 $37.99
DEV DPC-654
803130 DPC-654 DEKUPS DEMO/TRIAL KIT
DEV DPC-43
ADAPTER DEV, BNKS, SHARPE 802200 DEVILBISS DeKUPS
RUS
RUSH ORDER PROCESSING FEE

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
FREE SHIPPING EBAY $3.99 $3.99
UPS Ground $0.00 $0.00

 

[Will-E]

Had a chance to lay the paint down this weekend so thought I'd share a few photos. I was really pleased with the results. I only had 2 minor runs and both were on the sides of the subframe connectos. I should have taken the time to clock my spray tip 90 degrees to get a better position. Oh well - not too bad for 1st time sparying with a gun.

Speaking of gun, the Finish Line 4 w/1.3 tip worked really well. Thanks to all who help steer me away from the 1.8 tip. The DKups option for that gun is AWSOME! SInce the internal liner collapses while spraying it allows you to get excellent coverage even while upside down. It also makes much easier re-filling and cleaning. It has it's own mixing ratio display so you don't need to mix in a separte cup. It also has a filter/screen. Pretty cool setup.

Sorry pics are blurry - I think I got paint mist on my cell ph. camera lens. The 30 gal. compressor worked well although if I were spraying the outside of an entire car I would definitely go with something bigger.

Thanks again for everyones help which was huge in guiding me through this process. I also did the interior panels and they came out looking better than new. This paint has a satin finish which did them well. It's still a tad glossy in the pics because the paint is still wet.

I do have one more question - to get rid of my couple runs - can I sand these areas out and smooth w/o having to put antoher coat on top? If so, what grade sandpaper would achieve a nice appearance?

 

[Guest]

If your paint has a hardener, it can be sanded soon. But it will be dull. To remove the dullness, you buff. But these are semi gloss right? So what I'm saying is . . with the semi gloss paint you really have no recourse but to sand and respray. How wet you apply the paint will also effect how semi glosses and flats look when done.

 

[Will-E]

Thanks Pete - so it sounds like smoothing/buffing isn't an option and I'll have to respray these couple spots once I smooth out.

The paint has a Satin finish. It's a 4:1part activator (or maybe it's hardener - can't recall). It's been drying for 24-hrs. and still a little tacky. Temps have been in upper 70s and humid/rainy though (which is actually quite nice for these parts).

 

[Guest]

If the runs bothers you, I would sand it out and reshoot that part.

 

[Will-E]

If the runs bothers you, I would sand it out and reshoot that part.

They are on the outer-facing sides of subframe connectors and just big enough to bug me so I think I'll go for a smooth and re-shoot on those couple spots.

In a couple weeks I'll have the driveshaft, spindles and a few other random pieces ready to spray so will add this re-spray to that round.

Now that the entire underside is black, I'm thinking the new brake and fuel lines should also be black so they just dissapear into the background.

I used about 1 gallon (incl. the hardener) for the eng. comp, complete underside, fenderwells, rear end and misc. brackets and all the interior panels. I got another 1/2 gal. of the Dupont paint just in case and looks like I'll be dipping into it.