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200 inline 6 cylinder engine

6.3K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  BrianBodzenta  
#1 · (Edited)
Last Friday my parents brought down my 65 coupe with a 200 ci inline 6 from Northern OH down to Virginia Beach for me. I was told the car ran great as it did the last time I saw it a year ago. I don't know when the engine was last rebuilt or it it ever has. Currently the car is not running smooth and it wants to die when left to idle in park or in drive.

Its a stock 200 inline 6, C4 auto transmission car with the stock 1100 autolite and load-o-matic distributor. It runs decent on the highway at 70 mph but wants to die at stop lights. The engine has a few problems so im trying to decide what to do with it. Im keeping the inline 6 and would like the clean up the engine bay and maintain the stock appearance. When the engine ran good, about a year ago, I never felt that I needed more power or anything it was smooth and reliable.

-The oil was a bit low still on the dipstick though. I presume that the valve stem seals are bad. Additionally the valve cover is leaking everywhere.

-Warm Compression #’s (psi)
#1 - 195
#2 - 190
#3 - 180
#4 - 195
#5 - 190
#6 - 195

-From my limited experience spark plugs are hard to read. I always assume that there is more than one problem or potential causes. But plugs 1-4 were a bit white so I assume its running lean while 5-6 were black and seemed oil fowled. Judging by the compression numbers I assume that the valve stem seals are bad. The # 6 plug had oil on the plug threads indicating the valve cover gasket leak mentioned previously. Im pretty sure #6 wasn’t firing at all maybe #5 wasn’t either.

-The engine diesels a lot I presume from carbon build up the valves and piston tops.

- The point gap was 34 thousands or bigger so I cleaned them up and set the gap to 24

- last time I checked the timing was at 14 deg, 12 was too little.

- I don’t have vacuum data atm moment.

-Major exhaust leak at the manifold to head. A shop welded the manifold making it worse when they could have just asked me for a new one. I have three spares all in good shape

-Carb was rebuilt last year but is coverd in soot and is almost black now due to the exhaust leak. Maybe the idle passages are clogged as well.

-Oil looks clean not milky

-Oil pressure gauge reads just below half and is constant. (5 gage cluster)

-Temp gage reads middle but I always hear sounds (maybe boiling) from the radiator when I turn the engine off.

So any ideas where to start. I have a rebuilt head and everything that goes with it. A rebuilt carb, a new manifold, heater hoses, spark plugs the whole 9 yards. I just dont have a new long block. So do I pull the engine clean/inspect the bottom end and call it good due to the exceptional compression numbers or do I get a spare long block built and essentially build a whole new engine to put in the car and swap them?
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#3 ·
So I agree that the previous owner probably never drove the car on highways and it was probably only ever driven around town. With this being said I drove the car 1200 miles last year at least in the car with no idling issues Well at least none that occurred after the carb rebuild. Maybe the carb did eventually get clogged up. Also the car only had a 1/4 of a tank of gas the other day so I filled it up completely so if the gas was deteriorating hopefully that will dilute it. I will pump some into a container soon and see how that gas looks as it comes out. The gas filter on the pump may need changed as well. Ill see if this solves anything as it seems like a good start. Thanks.
 
#4 ·
If you feel 5 and 6 plugs are not firing you can raise the idle and pull the plug wire off with the engine running. If the engine rpm lowers and the engine gets rough the cylinder is working. If there is no change the cylinder is dead. Could be bad wires or bad cap. What does the inside of the cap look like? We also spray carb cleaner into the running engine while holding the throttle open. You can clean all the exposed surfaces. Good luck
 
#6 ·
Make sure your wires are good (cap & rotor also). Fix your exhaust leak too.

Check the valve stem seals while you're replacing the valve cover gasket and possibly replace them...Or just put the new head on.

The compression numbers are good. If you have good oil pressure, then the bottom end should be good, but it is very easy to rebuild.
 
#7 ·
The gap on the plugs is supposed to be .032-.036 per the shop manual (back of the Ignition section). So it sounds like yours was right to begin with.

Is your PCV valve hooked up and working? If it's not, then oil can mist out of the breather cap at the front of the valve cover and coat everything. This might be what's causing it to look like it's leaking. Or it could be leaking too, but if the top of the valve cover's oily fixing the PCV valve might help it.

If it's idling too low you could just turn the screw in a hair to raise the idle up. It's the one on the back at the bottom just barely accessible by laying a long screw driver on the valve cover at an angle.

Just some random thoughts.
 
#8 ·
The gap on the plugs is supposed to be .032-.036 per the shop manual (back of the Ignition section). So it sounds like yours was right to begin with. I set the point gap to .025 in and the plug gap to .34-.36. So I followed the manual perfectly.

Is your PCV valve hooked up and working? If it's not, then oil can mist out of the breather cap at the front of the valve cover and coat everything. This might be what's causing it to look like it's leaking. Or it could be leaking too, but if the top of the valve cover's oily fixing the PCV valve might help it. The top of the valve cover is actually not terrible but I think the PCV may be bad I will definitely look into this

If it's idling too low you could just turn the screw in a hair to raise the idle up. It's the one on the back at the bottom just barely accessible by laying a long screw driver on the valve cover at an angle. I didn’t think the 1100’s had an idle adjustment screw but I looked it up and they do. So ill try this as well.