I have that 12127 distributor and I understand it's from a '68 Mustang to be used with a non SCV carb like a rebuilt Holly 1940 replacement. Seems you need to swap the carb or swap the distributor. I hear getting the non SCV carb to match your distributor should give better performance. I'm able to do either as I have both carbs and both distributors.

 

I have that 12127 distributor and I understand it's from a '68 Mustang to be used with a non SCV carb like a rebuilt Holly 1940 replacement. Seems you need to swap the carb or swap the distributor. I hear getting the non SCV carb to match your distributor should give better performance. I'm able to do either as I have both carbs and both distributors.

From all I’ve read though, I believe my distributor is pre ‘65 as it’s the only time they used this type with the hole and cover below for easier lubrication (which I have). Sounds like they used those in the 64.5 and then made a factory change in 65 and older.


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Ditch the load-o-crap...sorry, load-O-matic Distributor. Upgrade to duraspark. Some cost involved but worth it.

 

Seems like an easy solution. But should I be worried that my carb has the SCV if I go that route? All I’ve read said any carb with a SCV on an 1100 HAS to have the load o matic for proper function and efficiency.


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So, it looks like you have a later "dual advance" distributor and an Autolite 1100 with SCV. Better this configuration than the opposite.

What you want to do is remove the vacuum line from the carburetor and plug the port, then reconnect your vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source....typically there are extra ports below the carburetor in the spacer plate. This is because the SCV in the carburetor modulates the vacuum signal as a "blend" between manifold and venturi vacuum and it typically will never exceed 4"hg which probably wouldn't even move your distributor's vacuum advance unit.

Of course you could always swap your SCV 1100 out for a non-SCV model but why spend the money?

 

So, it looks like you have a later "dual advance" distributor and an Autolite 1100 with SCV. Better this configuration than the opposite.

What you want to do is remove the vacuum line from the carburetor and plug the port, then reconnect your vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source....typically there are extra ports below the carburetor in the spacer plate. This is because the SCV in the carburetor modulates the vacuum signal as a "blend" between manifold and venturi vacuum and it typically will never exceed 4"hg which probably wouldn't even move your distributor's vacuum advance unit.

Of course you could always swap your SCV 1100 out for a non-SCV model but why spend the money?

My buddy and I finally got around to look into this. I am attaching a couple pics for you to see.

In the first pic, there is a line from carb to distributor that I’m guessing is the vacuum line you mentioned.

1. Can you verify that is the line I should remove from carb and plug that port opening that will be left behind? (Pic 2)


2. Can I simply connect that line just a little further below (where you see that screw plugging a port) instead? (Pic 1)

Thanks for any feedback!

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Distributors and carbs get turned in as cores and get rebuilt to whatever specs the vendor needs at the time.

Nothing wrong with points. If you want the stock look, keep the distributor that you have.

I went round and round for over a month on buying a carb.

Ford had many carb specs over the years. The parts houses have condensed their catalogs into only a handful of part numbers.

Your best bet when buying a carb is to find out which rebuilder the parts store uses. Advance uses UREMCO out of Illinois. Call the rebuilder tell them what you need and they will give you the correct p/n. Often the parts store catalog does not differentiate between auto or manual transmission, SCV or not. Also, at least UREMCO is buying China carbs and using them as cores. Make sure you do not turn in a Ford core and get a China carb in return.

Many rebuilders will take your core and rebuild it for you.

The carb I needed for a 67 200/AT was not in Advances catalog. UREMCO gave me a p/n, when I plugged the p/n into Advances search bar, the carb turned up.

UREMCO tells me the biggest problem with 1V carbs is warped bodies or tops and thats why they are using China cores.

 

ALL Ford distributor housings have 12127 as the basic casting number. In Ford language that means it is a distributor housing and nothing more than that.

 

Thank you. But not all have the oil hole and cover. Sounds like that was only in the 64.5 mustang prior to a factory change in 65. So I’m trying to figure out how a 64.5 distributor landed on my 66. Maybe previous owner made that swap. Wouldn’t think it came off assembly line that way but this car is extremely stock so I’m not positive.


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I have three 1100s. One is a new aftermarket, one is a new, refurbished and one is one I rebuilt from a kit. All have the spark control valve. I'm running a Duraspark Distributor. I noticed an increase in performance as soon as I had the distributor swapped out. I can't seem to find the load-o whatever distributor. I think my wife dumped it.

 

Yes, try it and see. It should help with advancing distributor. But the SCV carb s not exactly what you need, but can work. I read an article about converting from scv to non-scv by blocking off passages. In article they drilled and tapped passages for scv, then added tiny plugs to make the conversion. I did not want to permanently mod the only carb I had, so tried a “temporary“ idea and filled passages with black RTV. It worked pretty good. I’ll have to dig for article...give me a bit...

 

Yes, try it and see. It should help with advancing distributor. But the SCV carb s not exactly what you need, but can work. I read an article about converting from scv to non-scv by blocking off passages. In article they drilled and tapped passages for scv, then added tiny plugs to make the conversion. I did not want to permanently mod the only carb I had, so tried a “temporary“ idea and filled passages with black RTV. It worked pretty good. I’ll have to dig for article...give me a bit...

Thx for this great feedback!


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Just to be clear here, you're going to want to move your vacuum line from the carb down to the intake manifold, not that screw on the carb base.

That screw on the cab base that you're pointing to doesn't go anywhere. It just holds a rod that can be used for a different linkage. If you take that screw out you'll see that it just dead ends.

The port on the intake manifold is where Ford hooked up vacuum accessories like an automatic transmission or power brakes so that's what you're looking for.

 

Just to be clear here, you're going to want to move your vacuum line from the carb down to the intake manifold, not that screw on the carb base.
View attachment 764645

That screw on the cab base that you're pointing to doesn't go anywhere. It just holds a rod that can be used for a different linkage. If you take that screw out you'll see that it just dead ends.

The port on the intake manifold is where Ford hooked up vacuum accessories like an automatic transmission or power brakes so that's what you're looking for.

That is an important clarification. Thank you so much for sharing it. Appreciate the pic too!


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Just an UPDATE:

I changed that vacuum line to the lower port, plugged the old line port, and the car ran like a top for the first time in a while! Took a little work getting the right “plumbing” and fittings but I couldn’t be more happy! Thank you to all who helped me here!

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I hate to hijack, but am I in a similar boat here with my '66 6-cylinder? Both carb and distributor are original to my understanding and the repair records I have ('85-present & a few notes from 70s) do not indicate replacement, just maintenance. Also yes, the distributor is dirty, but pic was pre-removal as I'm cleaning and refurbishing all the things.

 

You have the matching Autolite 1100 spark control valve SCV carb, and Load-O -Matic distributor. Visit fordsix.com for more information about your engine.