[DrStang]

I'm gathering parts for my 331 stroker project. I have a '65 289 block that I will convert to roller if I have to, or I can track down a 5.0 block somewhere. Is the 289 block stronger than the 5.0 block. I heard this somewhere - just need your guys/gals opinion.

 

[RTM]

I 've heard people claim the older blocks are stronger. I had a 74 351W block and a local was all over it for his stroker. he said that 74 was the cut off year for the 351W. I have no clue and can only guess what the cut off year is for the 302/289 blocks.

I myself would run the roller block. There seems to be several people running 400plus HP with them but I have seen ppictures of the roller blocks split in half that had 500HP and who knows what else. If the motor isn't raced all the time I wouldn't worry about it. Another benefit to the roller block is the one ppiece rear oil seal.

 

[Huskinhano]

I don't think I still have the issue but the old SuperFord magazine covered this. As far as 289/302's go, the earlier the better. The strongest were the 65 to ~66 IIRC. By the early 70's things were going down hill with the amount of metal, quality of cast iron, casting and machining. The late 70's and early 80's are at the bottom. From about '87 and up the blocks got better but still not as strong as the mid 60's 289 block. IIRC, the roller blocks weigh about 20 pounds LESS then a 289 block!That should tell you something. Ford rates the 5.0 block to around 400 hp while I have read other sources say about 600 hp. You decide.

Before you go to a roller cam, I'd strongly suggest you get a copy of the Sept. issue of Popular Hotrodding. Dave Vizard did a great article on roller, flat tappet, hydraulic and solid tappet cams. The results will shock you. Basically, unless you're running more then 270* advertised duration, a roller cam won't do too much. Stock roller tappets from the factory tend to distort with the thrust loads placed on them due to their design that causes a lot of bleed down and lost performance compared to a flat tappet hydraulic. After reading the article. I wouldn't run a stock roller tappet, I'd use the billet ones from Crane. Also Dave Vizard said they have test hydraulic cams to 7,400 rpm with no problems and in one test a hydrualic cam actually made more power through out the entire rpm range then a similar solid tappet with the same specs!

 

[rhyno9]

Everything I have read would indicate that the 289 block and a 302 block prior to 1974 are stronger castings then the post 1974 thin wall castings. Basically the 302 seem to split from the mains upward. When you look at the early block you will notice that the blocks have more material in the main webbing then the thin wall castings. Also note that the early blocks mains bolt into blind holes as opposed to through bolts. Every block I have seen that was split started at one of the main bolt holes.

I would use the 289.

 

[rhyno9]

Some more info on the failure of late model blocks.

http://www.turbomustangs.com/techarticles/stockblock.php

 

[DrStang]

Thanks for the info. yes I have that issue of Popular Hot Rodding - excellent info. I'd like to use a higher lift cam to take adventage of my high flow heads. Flat tappet would be just too rough an idle to live with. The roller cam will be a little more friendly.

 

[Arto65FB]

a copy of the Sept. issue of Popular Hotrodding. Dave Vizard did a great article on roller, flat tappet, hydraulic and solid tappet cams. The results will shock you. Basically, unless you're running more then 270* advertised duration, a roller cam won't do too much. Stock roller tappets from the factory tend to distort with the thrust loads placed on them due to their design that causes a lot of bleed down and lost performance compared to a flat tappet hydraulic.

Oh, I wouldn't trust that old Englishman, he was most likely talking about Chebbies, anyway. But seriously, I will get a copy, too. However, all the dyno curves I have seen with rollers are much better than roughly similar combos with flat tappets. And if the rollers weren't any good why Ford did go with them in 80ies.

 

[RTM]

The roller set up has less friction and does not require a break in like a flat tappet cam. This alone is a good thing for those that do not want to break in a cam or have never done so. The ramp profiles on a roller cam are quicker than a flat tappet cam as well. I may be wrong but I would always choose a roller set up over a flat tappet up but maybe that's just me.

 

[Nailbender]

Back from the dead!

So 16 years on is the current wisdom still that the original 289 block is substantially stronger than the 5.0 roller block? I've got my original October 1964 289 freshly bored 0.020 over sitting on a stand possibly waiting for a more exciting rotating assembly. The cost of link bar roller lifters has more than doubled in the last few years is the only downside I can see.

 

[kenash]

I too am still running my early '64 289 block. Its bored .040 and running a 331 stoker kit with 10.6 CR and TW heads. It runs great with good street manners. I think the older blocks, if sonically stable, are well seasoned and will stand up to RWTQ and HP improvements. This thread as old as it is, still relevant "16" years later.

 

[bmcgc]

Nail and Kenash that would make your blocks 5 bolt bells, correct?

What about the Mexican 302 block?

 

[kenash]

Nail and Kenash that would make your blocks 5 bolt bells, correct?

What about the Mexican 302 block?

Yep, 5 bolt for me. The Mexican blocks have a huge following, if you can find them. The are, more robust.

 

[Nailbender]

Nail and Kenash that would make your blocks 5 bolt bells, correct?

Mine is a 6 bolt. My car, original when I bought it, has a good mix of early and latter parts.

 

[bmcgc]

I have two 5 bolt bell blocks and two 5 bolt C-4's. I would like a 5 bolt manual bell just to have on the side.

 

[Redneckgearhead]

The Mexican blocks have a following but I have yet to see anything beyond folk lore that proves they're stronger. I have seen some folks that say the thicker areas are because the casting is made of weaker iron.

 

[Woodchuck]

Tons of Fox-bodies with factory roller blocks being insanely boosted or NOSsed. Use the roller, aftermarket HiPo main caps and drill the holes for 1/2 inch ARP main cap bolts.