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351 C Maximum Cylinder Bore

4.6K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  jsgarron  
#1 ·
Just took my engine apart to replace a crank on my 73 Mach I, the main bearing clearance was three time spec, the reason my oil pressure was way down. When I pulled the pistons it looks like the cylinders need to be bored. The enging was rebuilt by the PO, the inside is very clean and has .020" aluminum piston in it. I just don't think it was done right. So my question is what is the maximum I can bore the 351 Cleveland block and still be dependable. I like to drive it a lot. Not much racing mostly just cruising.

Any info is much appreciated.
 
#4 ·
Thanks. I will get it to the machine shop today and have it measured. Not sure what it is going to take to straighten it out.

Any opinions on the Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons?
 
#6 ·
i ended up with Hypereutectic pistons
in my .40 over engine.

there is a debate over forged verse Hypereutectic.

they say if your block is a little off from being over bored that forged is more forgiving.
but then they say there are disadvantages to using forged In that they are heavier, they are more limited in design, and the type of aluminum used. forged pistons are said to have a much higher expansion rate, which can make the break in for the engine harder. careful attention to the piston skirt clearance has to be applied. when the engine is cold the piston will have more slop in in it then a Hypereutectic because it expands so much as the engine heats up.

Hypereutectic pistons can be sensitive to total timing, any machining done to the bores has to be be REALLY close to spec also. but they do not expand as much and you don't get the piston slop on startup.

I think for a regular engine builder there is less to worry about if you go the Hypereutectic route, as long as the machining is good your fine.
i was worried about the slop/engine break in. and was turned away from forged pistons on a street car.

It really comes down to the skill of your machine shop and engine builder. I would recommend having the engine dynoed before you take possession of it from the builder, if he blows it up on the dyno better there then in your car.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the info. The machine shop boring the block is very good, and also did my 289. They will measure the block and call me sometime next week. I am the engine builder, isn't this what we call fun, so I will be very careful to mic/torq everthing properly.