Torch em till they are nice and hot , then they will come out .

 

Big 1/2" drive 6 point socket and LONG pull bar.

 

Torch em till they are nice and hot , then they will come out .

These are bolts. Won't the metal expansion be counter-productive

 

I think he meant heat around the bolts....Alos try PB rust busters. That stuff works very well. Way better than liquid wrench and WD-40. Heat is the best.

 

You can use PB Blaster (comes in a spray can like WD40 but it's much better). Soak the bolts with PB once or twice a day for a few days. I used this method to help remove the 40 year old rusted bolts on my exhaust manifold. I removed them with regular wrenches after the PB did its work.

 

Heating the bolts will cause them to expand and contract when cooled. That sometimes will help them break their bond. Also if there is any thread locker (Locktite) on the bolt, heat will soften that as well. Just don't use a cutting torch on them.

getting PB Blaster to work may be tough because of the bolt being upside down. But it's worth a try.

 

After god knows how many years of mice pissing on them (found lots of evidence when I did the frame), heat nor PB Blaster did it for me. I ended up grinding the head & redrilling/tapping. Once you do get them out (however your method), running a tap (1/2"-13) to clean the threads and some anti-seize makes for easier reinstallation

 

getting PB Blaster to work may be tough because of the bolt being upside down. But it's worth a try.

That shouldn't be a problem. One of its characteristics is to be able to move upwards...so it says on the can.

 

I was referring to a cutting torch . Heating the bolt up and getting it very hot expands the bolt . When it cools it will contract . The movement will normally break the bond the rust has on the bolt to thread .
If it does not , sometimes the surroundings can be heated afterwards . Not to cherry read but just hotter than the bolt . Sometimes it takes heating and cooling the frozen fastner a couple times .
The other thing to do after heating is wack the head of the bolt , flat on it with a BFH a couple times . That will help shake it loose .

 

We use this stuff called "Rust Eater". Spray it on and let it soak overnight. Works EVERY TIME!

 

Final Score: Heat 2, Rusty Bolts 0

Crossmember is off! Thanks for your interest and responses.

- Gord

 

I usually heat bolts then throw the impact on, works every time. Let me know how the randall's rack works out for you, I have the same kit for my 68, but it won't be running for at least a few months so I don't get to experience cool modern steering just yet anyways..