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'65 Prioritization List

676 views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  lemonshindig  
#1 ·
Hi y'all - Just rejoined the VMF after being away for the past several years due to personal/family issues getting in the way of car stuff. Was at one of the Corn Feeds back-in-the day...'02...where has the time gone???

Anyway, in the process of getting my '65 Coupe running again so I can get it away from my grandmother's house in Sedona...bless her heart!! Will be spending about $1K for a local guy to "get it running again" before I drive out to AZ and trailer it back here to TX after CMAS. Once this is done, I want to get an idea of what should be worked on as I am planning on resto modding the car but have no intention of racing...Can handle most of the work myself, just not sure if I want to at this point in my life.

First plan of attack will be upgrading to disc brakes and getting new tires but after that I was hoping to get some ideas. Engine, body, suspension...? Car was in pretty decent shape when I dropped it off but I know how time has a way of sneaking up on us all...just look at ourselves!!!

Looking forward to your responses at getting active again. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Guess it really depends on what all has been done to it recently? Is it a daily driver?
 
#3 ·
Nothing's been done since I dropped it off years ago. The plan is to get it back home and one-by-one do the work myself or hire it out. Was just trying to get a general idea of where to begin/continue as this will be a "keep busy" hobby, along with a chance to get my 9-year old daughter vaguely familiar and/or interested re: cars.
 
#4 ·
Welcome back to the fold!

I gather your Stang has been sitting unmoved at your Grandmother's in AZ for about 10 years. Was it solid, relatively rust free (I mean structurally)when you last saw it? Being in nice dry AZ it should be about the same unless it's been outside in which case paint, weatherstripping, padded dash, tires etc. will be pretty baked out.

Chances are after sitting for 10 years one or more of the brake drums will be locked up from a leaking wheel cylinder causing the brake shoes lining to swell. You won't be able to get it on a flatbed until the wheels are freed by backing off the brake adjusters.
My 68 sat inside at a friend's for 10 years, when I went with a flatbed to bring it to my house a rear wheel was locked up.
Figure on going thru the entire brake system whether or not doing the front disc conversion at the time. All brake components are suspect.

You can read articles about old tires being unsafe, google on line.

Before attempting to start the engine with whatever procedure this is what I recommend:
o Remove the spark plugs. Shoot some (maybe 1/4 oz) of penetrating oil in each cylinder. Use the starter to crank the engine several times (with the coil to dist cap spark cable disconnected). Leave that sit while you drain and clean out the gas tank. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb, crank the engine and pump out the stuff (no longer gasoline) from the line. Believe it or not the carb may be ok but at the least the gaskets will probably be dried out so it will leak.

Good chance if the car was parked 10 years ago with very little gas in the tank it will have dried up leaving crusty stuff in the bottom, good chance the sender is clogged and shot. Figure on removing the gas tank, cleaning it out or replacing and probably replace the sender.

Obviously the battery will need replacing. I got a neat thing many years ago it's a remote starter cable/button. You hook it to the solenoid and can crank the engine with no assistant.

DIY check list.
o Keep fingers away from fan, belts etc. Even just cranking the engine without starting it you can lose a finger in the belt over pulley! Willy Nelson types or Women with long hair keep you hair out of the fan, belts and pulleys.

o A gas tank with just a little gas or vapor in it is a potential bomb! Having emptied it doesn't make it safe. OH contrare the "empty" tank can be the most dangerous. Use brass, wood, plastic etc non sparking tools when doing something like replacing the sender.

o Never slide under the car just for a quick look unless the car is properly supported with stands, floor jack etc. no concrete blocks and make sure the area on the car even if shown in the manual as the correct area is not rusted badly and could allow collapse!
Since the early unibody cars (late 30's?) they have shown support/jacking points. This is/was for the new car. A couple years with road salt and all bets are off!

o Now I determine there is spark at the plugs. With the plug wires disconnected take a loose/removed plug, connect the wire, touch the body of the plug on a bare metal spot on the engine. Ignition is on but as I said the other spark plugs wires are disconnected. Use the handy remote start to give it a crank. Spark at plug?

Now you've cleaned the tank, checked the sender and replace it, connected the gas line. Put a gallon of gas in the tank.

Go back under hood carb fueline disconnected. Main coil to dizzy cap center lead disconnected and key in the off position, use the remote starter to crank the engine until gas shoots out the fuel line. If fuel doesn't shoot out fairly soon (remember the line was emptied) the fuel pump may be bad.

Connect the fuel line, plugs etc. Try firing up the old Pony. Keep in mind the carb fuel bowl is empty, several cranks will be needed to fill the fuel bowl. With the air cleaner off move the throttle linkage and see if gas squirts strongly in the carb venturi. Make sure the choke is closed.

Give it a try! When it fires up it will smoke like crazy for several minutes from the penetrating oil you squirted in the cylinders.

Long response. My 68 289 sat for 10 years. It's run like a champ for 6 years after following this revival procedure.


Good luck, enjoy your
revived hobby,
Slim
 
#5 ·
What the heck is prioritization?

I thought you were supposed to go out to the garage with one project in mind that wouldn't actually help get the car on the road, see something else you wanted to work on that still won't work towards getting it on the road, and then do something else entirely.

Isn't that what restoration means?