Yes, the 16:1 box fits just fine in place of the 19:1 box.
The quick box is a little more difficult to find used and
then you usually have to rebuilt it- Flaming River and
Borgeson both have new replacement 16:1 boxes but
the quality is all over the place from what I've seen
on the FR and heard about on the Borgeson.
16:1 box is always a great improvement over 19:1 and
the only penalty is the increased effort you would have
if your car is manual steering.

 

Thanks for helpin me out, I didnt want to buy one and have it not fit. Im goin to go with the 16;1 gear box.


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Thanks for helpin me out, I didnt want to buy one and have it not fit. Im goin to go with the 16;1 gear box.

I think Chockostang on here sells them rebuilt - assuming this is his auction

65 66 MUSTANG STEERING BOX (ORIGINAL REBUILT) | eBay

 

I have the 16:1 in mine with manual steering and really like it alot. I also got the Opentracker roller idler arm and that makes it easier to steer too. It wasn't that hard before.

 

Same here.

 

I know the gearbox can be hard and/or expensive to replace because the engine has to be removed to get to it? If I had just the tie rod ends and idler arm replaced instead would that help reduce the play in my steering wheel? or should I just get a whole new gearbox

 

You can pull the motor mount and bracket on the right side and remove the steering box. You dont have to pull the whole motor out.
Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the steering under the car. You can see if the play is coming from the tie rods etc. You will probably want new tie rods anyway.

 

I have the 16:1 box, no power assist, the Shelby Quick Steer and large forearms...

 

LOL

I drove that setup for 15 years, and that's exactly what I told people. Made me look like Popeye.

 

so If the play is not coming from the gearbox and its the tie rod ends and idler arm that needs replaced, would Opentracker Racing Products - Steering Kits be a good kit to get for it? or would I need anything else

 

a) If all that's wrong with it is "a little play", you need to do the adjustments 'by the book'. Probably tighten right up, saving you about $500.

b) The 16:1 and 19:1 are externally identical, and kinda hard to tell apart. I would recommend the 16:1 if you are interested in performance driving, get the 16:1.

 

a) If all that's wrong with it is "a little play", you need to do the adjustments 'by the book'. Probably tighten right up, saving you about $500.

Grease it too.

 

Damon - it may be worth talking it through with John (aka Opentracker) - he has a lot of good advice to offer and he set me straight the other day when I had similar questions about my 65 19:1 steering gear.

As 22GT suggested above - adjustments may help your current gear, along with properly lubing the gear as detailed here: http://www.stangerssite.com/lubrication.html
(another Opentracker recomendation - great write up and likely to help)

 

One note on switching from the 19 to 1 to the 16 to 1, it won't effect the turning radius at all, but it will reduce the amount you need to turn the steering wheel for a given degree of turning your car's wheels.

 

Super Nice car BTW!

 

Call Dan @ Chockostang, he'll set you up!

 

hey i found that the play is coming from the gearbox. Im going to get the 19;1. Id like everyone to know youve all been a huge help, thanks.

 

Selling my 66' Fastback

Hey my 1966 mustang Fastback GT350 tribute is for sale if anyone is interested. I have close to 40k invested and have all the documentation and receipts for the car. Im willing to let it go for 25k. It has the numbers matching 289 with the 4 speed transmission. Email me for any information, photos, or i also have videos of the car. I also have a Shelby fiberglass racing bumper and a set of GT foglights that comes with the car.
Volcom1243@aol.com -772 287 8550

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Set out to adjust one in a 66. Took about 1/8 of full turn. Set out to do it in short increments, and the first setting did the trick.

 

It's best to do this based on the inch-pound Ford spec, bearings first, then gear.