In the mounts themselves I don't believe so but the mounting point for the pedal is higher for pb in 67 and later cars.

 

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So with a power brake pedal, there are no bushings at the mounting hole ?

 

The power pedal mounts on a steel spacer that is clamped by the center bolt in the upper holes, and the spacer and bolt do not rotate with the pedal. The pedal does, of course, use conventional pedal bushings, and with the pedal, these do rotate on the spacer.

 

Yes, I forgot about the booster mounting. The booster has studs on it so it wouldn't need the threaded nut inserts like a nonpower brake car.

 

So with a power brake pedal, there are no bushings at the mounting hole ? Let me add that this was an automatic car that PO did a Granada drum to disc swap on. My son purchased a new disc brake pedal, but it sits way too high , like 2 inches above the gas pedal. Thanks all.

 

I'm gonna have to see a photo of that. To me, "above" means closer to the front seat. In that context, 2" would be very low, not high.

On some early 67's, the upper power brake holes were not punched.

 

A lot depends on what he's using to convert it to pb. If he's going totally factory style then yes the threaded inserts where the bracket mounts to the firewall will need to be removed. If it's some pieced together kit that uses parts from different models and brands then all bets are off, were gonna need pics to determine the correct way.

 

What are the effects of mounting it to wrong hole? Less effective braking and pedal would not be lined up with accelerator pedal?

 

I'm not sure anyone could put the wrong brake pedal in the wrong mount....

 

Thats good to know. I installed mine a few years ago and was trying to remember if I knew it had to go in the higher hole. Thanks.

 

When I converted the 67 I had to knock the nuts off the flange and open them up a little with a dremel so the brake booster studs would fit through the holes. If that makes sense.

While you have it out I would do the roller conversion for the clutch pedal, if you have a manual transmission. Check out Mustang Steve for that as well.

Heres the booster cutout, I really cant remember whether I had to modify mine or not.

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Ok, thanks. I s/w him and new pedal is mounted correctly in the upper hole, BUT it still sits too high ( from the floor) in the resting position. It is several inches higher than the gas pedal. Just doesn't seem correct.

 

I just checked mine. A 1968 originally w/ drum brakes converted to power disc years ago. The brake pedal sits ~2” closer to the seat than the gas pedal. The clutch pedal sits ~3/4” higher than the brake pedal. Here’s a pic- sorry its dark.

 

I just checked mine. A 1968 originally w/ drum brakes converted to power disc years ago. The brake pedal sits ~2” closer to the seat than the gas pedal. The clutch pedal sits ~3/4” higher than the brake pedal. Here’s a pic- sorry its dark.

View attachment 780624

 

Thanks.... I'll have to re-check his pedal height. Wish someone had the same pic but with an automatic.

 

This is a 67. Was factory manual drum brakes all the way arround and converted to power brakes with discs in the front hope the pic helps give you an idea of the height mine is at.

 

Back in the early 80's, I decided that when I finally decided to Restore my 67, I wanted to add Power Brakes. I thought that I would start trying to find parts so that when the time came, I would have everything, or at least most everything that I needed. At that time, I had the 1965-72 Master Parts Catalog, and tried to determine the major items that I would need. Those items turned out to be the Booster unit, a different Master Cylinder, a different Brake Pedal, and, according to the MPC, a different Pedal Support.

As I usually did back then, I started with my Ford Dealer to see what might still be available. To my surprise, the Pedal Support was still available, so I ordered it, and also got a Ford Rebuilt Master Cylinder, and a Power Brake Pedal Pad. Over the next couple of years, I found (through Hemmings - no internet back then) a NOS Booster. After that, I didn't actively pursue any additional parts for the 67, due to work and other projects. I drove the car off and on until the mid 90's. It then sat until about 10 years ago. By then, I had accumulated a lot more resources and knowledge about 67's. One of the things I had found out was that a different Pedal Support was only necessary if one had an "early" 67. Of course the question is, "what is early" ? I still don't know the answer to that. As it turns out, the "later" Pedal Supports actually had a knock-out for the upper holes used for the Power Brake Pedal. Therefore, all that is needed is to punch out the knock-outs and remove the captive cage nuts that were for the non-power Master Cylinder.

About 4 or 5 years ago, I started dismantling my January 31 build 67 for Restoration. I still haven't removed my pedal support, and can't really see if it has the knock-outs for the upper holes or not. However, since I have the correct Power Brake Pedal support, I am "good" in any case.

In regard to the pedals themselves, something that I hadn't picked up prior to dismantling, I thought that it was time to "attack that. It bothered me that, over the years (and still today), I had seen many listings that noted "Power Brake Pedal, 1967-69", and even "1967-70 Mustang Power Brake Pedal". My concern was that the Ford Parts Books show that each year had it own Part Number, signifying that there was "something" different with each year. I figured that it was time to dig into this in depth. I finally found "Mustang Steve's" site, which had a great write up with pictures, about Mustang Brake Pedals. I have attached a few pictures "borrowed" from his site. Bottom line is, first, the Power Disc and Power Drum Pedals are the same ; and secondly, the 1968-69 Power Brake Pedals, although not technically correct, will work, but may need a slight modification (in terms of the notch), and will have more offset than the 1967 Pedal.

The other great thing I found was that a friend happened to have an original Kit for converting to Power Brakes, with the original Instructions, which he shared with me, and I am passing on here.

Hopefully, this will help, and take some of the "Mystery" out of this relatively simple, and straight-forward conversion - assuming you can come up with the correct parts of course.

Bob