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with all this focus on the Vue steering box, there should be other vehicles out there with suitable donor parts, no ?

certain years of equinox and cobalts had the epas steering setups. i think the vue became the one to hunt for because they're easier to find at the self-serve auto junkyards.


I just received the ebay controller (ordered it about three weeks ago) and now waiting for a relay ordered

Amazon.com: NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 1114208: Automotive


in the meantime, i have to graft my old column with the saturn column.

(it's going into a 78 vw track rabbit...i know i know...not a mustang)
 
I went to the yard yesterday to grab another lower steering shaft (the collapsible part with the u-joints) just in case. They had 2 more VUE's show up, both with the correct boxes. However, that yard charges an arm and a leg for them, $125.

Franken, what is the relay for? Running the main power to the motor through it so its only on with key on power?
 
If you want to pull both those I will buy one. $125 isn't bad. I think some places around here caught on because they are selling for more. One place wanted $130 for just the motor.
 
Just called my local yard..$100 for everything (control box included) and I don't even have to pull it. I will need to convert from power to manual steering though.

Love this mod! :)

They tacked on $10 for the input shaft. I think I can handle that.
 
This is definitely on my to do list now, as my car is a trackday/cruiser, the knob to be able to turn it on or off its superb! I just need to go down and find the right car at the pick n pull.

The only catch is that I'm using a Flaming River Tilt Steering column... I'm hoping that I'll be able to modify that column to make this work....Anyone else with this situation?
 
I went to the yard yesterday to grab another lower steering shaft (the collapsible part with the u-joints) just in case. They had 2 more VUE's show up, both with the correct boxes. However, that yard charges an arm and a leg for them, $125.

Franken, what is the relay for? Running the main power to the motor through it so its only on with key on power?
I'll also buy a complete unit from you if you can get one for me :)
 
Think I am going to send away for the controller seeings it take a while to get here. I always wanted to add power steering to the vert. GOtta go on a mission to the boneyard to pick up the parts in next few weeks.
 
Your good, you have what you need. You will be cutting the lower shaft just above the spline (see post#53)

The lower shaft comes in at least two flavours; small and large diameter.

What is the diameter of the lower shaft just above the spline?

What year and model of vehicle?
Here's the information you needed..

the diameter of the lower shaft above the spline (8.275" or 21.02mm)

year and model of vehicle (1969 Ford Mustang Coupe - Stock Power Steering)
 
Discussion starter · #97 · (Edited)
Sorry for the delayed response regarding the details of the installation. I will start now and edit this entry as I find time, here goes....

EPS installation in a 66 Mustang (V8, T5)

I recently installed an EPS (Electric Power Steering) setup into a 66 Mustang. I am very happy with the results, so I’m providing the following write up to explain how I performed this modification. I’m NOT a mechanical engineer, just a guy that enjoys tinkering with vintage cars. These modifications may be unsuitable for a street driven vehicle. Welding is required and should be performed by a professional welder as a welding failure could result in complete loss of steering.

There may be simpler ways to fabricate the various parts, however I wanted the finished product to be easy to install with the ability to replace the Koyo portion with simple hand tools in the event of a failure. I had to take the unit in and out many times while I was sizing everything up and the unit can be removed or installed in about 30 minutes or so (5 bolts and a couple of setscrews) This is what the complete assembly looks like: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196578&stc=1&d=1409835600

The car the EPS was added to has numerous previous modifications, the most relevant being a manual TCP rack. That being said, mating the EPS to the stock steering box would not be more difficult just slightly different.

The EPS column can be found in the following vehicles:
• Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007
• Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007
• Pontiac Torrent 2005-2007, not 2008
• Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006 - only in steering column with metal ECU case

For those heading to the pick-a-part:
1) Get the intermediate shaft
2) You don't need the steering wheel, but you do need the collapsible "slider" shaft and tube.
3) Cut the wires as long as possible, the power ground can be unbolted from left side of c-channel, power feed goes through the firewall, signal wires a foot or so will do.

The EPS donor should look like this: Vintage Mustang Forums

For those who start cutting and drilling before I get a chance to complete the write-up, measure everything and write it down, for example one critical measurement is how far your Mustang steering shaft protrudes from the front face of the flange just behind the steering wheel.

Tools required :
1. Basic stuff: wrenches, sockets, hammer, tin-snips, etc.
2. Vice, drill press, sawzall, welder, lathe is handy but not necessary.

Special parts required:
1. Steering coupler (lower)
2. Steering coupler (upper)
3. Adapter (upper): Walker reducer part # 41939 $2.97@ Summit http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wlk-41939/overview/
4. Adapter (lower)
5. Mounting plate (lower)
6. Metric bolt (Intermediate shaft collar, required for clearance) M8 X 1.25 -30 Hex socket Button Head
7. Bearing R18-ZZ
8. Bushing (steel ¾”)
9. Setscrew ¼” (qty 2)
10. Metric bolt M6 X 1.0: 1x M6-12, and 2x M6-20; Hex socket Head Cap (Upper Vue tube retaining bolts)
11. Coupling nut (5/16”)
12. Mounting bolt 7” x 5/16”
13. Re-enforcement bar (1” square tube)
14. Pilot bolt; 1/4" x 1" Hex socket Socket Head to prevent steering column from rotating
15. Steering controller eBay (Bruno), or improved EPC-100 speed sensitive controller (Slow-poke)

Special parts description:

1. Steering coupler (lower).
The lower steering coupler, couples the upper portion of the Vue intermediate shaft to the lower portion of the Mustang steering shaft. In my case because I have a TCP rack that uses a DD-type shaft, I used a Borgeson part # 314900 3/4 DD x 3/4 Smooth bore, this fits very well on the lower Vue shaft (when opened up with a 13/16" drill bit on the smooth bore side). Note I pulled a second Vue assembly (so I have a spare), and the lower shaft is slightly different than the one I installed in my car. So a good idea to get the assembly before ordering parts. Most of you will be joining to the original shaft, so you will likely need ¾” smooth bore to ¾” smooth bore, or drill out the DD side using a ¾” drill. My original Vue lower looked like this: Vintage Mustang Forums

And the bottom picture shows the Vue lower welded to the DD shaft for the TCP rack, most of you will be welding to a stub coming from your original steering box. The lower Vue shaft unbolts easily from the EPS unit (one bolt). Vintage Mustang Forums

2. Steering coupler (upper)
The upper steering coupler is used to join the upper Vue slider shaft to the upper portion of the stock Mustang steering shaft. The Vue slider shaft has an expanded section with an oval slot that was used to lock the steering wheel in the original car. The top portion of the slider needs to be cut off just above the oval slot as shown below. The upper coupler fits inside the expanded section of the Vue slider and has a ¾” hole to mate with the original Mustang shaft. This coupler is welded to both the slider as well as the Mustang shaft. I made the coupler by turning down a 2" length of steel round to match the inside diameter of the expanded portion of the Vue slider shaft (tight fit). Then I drilled a 3/4" hole in the center to accept the original Mustang shaft. I used a regular 3/4" drill bit and when finished the hole was slightly larger, 0.760 or so, this was not ideal as the shaft could tilt slightly. I'm told that machine shops use under size drill bits for operations like this so they end up with a perfect (tight) fit. You can't see it in the picture, but I cut down the Vue end of the Mustang shaft to match the pilot hole in the end of the splined Vue upper shaft (to help ensure alignment). The length of this assembly is somewhat flexible because the final length is determined by the location of the set screws because this assembly can slide up and down the upper splined shaft of the Koyo unit. See Setscrew below for more details. This is the one part that should be made on a lathe for accuracy, I have a friend that runs a machine shop and he has offered to make a batch, if there is enough interest I will have a batch made. I had this weld done by a professional (I'm don't trust my welds on a critical part like this) the fellow welded it on a bench and after welding the shaft was not perfectly true it had about 0.030 run out, but this did not seem to have any noticeable impact. See additional pictures in Upper Mustang shaft assembly(Post#98). Vintage Mustang Forums

3. Adapter (upper)
The upper spacer/adapter is used to mate the upper portion of the Mustang steering column to the upper portion of the Vue collapsible column. First, the upper Vue tube must be cut as shown below. Vintage Mustang Forums

The upper spacer/adapter fills the gap between the Vue tube (right picture above) and the Mustang Column. For the first prototype I used exhaust pipe expanded to the I.D. of the Mustang column (see picture below). Notice the oval slot in the original Mustang tube, this slot mates with a tab in the Mustang C-bracket that attaches the column tube to the bottom of the dash, so indexing of this slot will determine the rotary position of the EPS motor assembly. This final weld is not performed until everything has been trial fitted. Edit bacchus203 found this..... http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wlk-41939/overview/ , Vintage Mustang Forums

4. Adapter (lower)
The lower adapter mates the lower portion of the Mustang column to the lower Vue mounting plate. For the first prototype I used exhaust tube to match the ID of the Mustang tube on one side, and expanded the other side to fit over the OD of the flange on the bottom side of Koyo gear box. Note the hole in the in lower portion of Mustang tube to allow access to the lower Vue shaft collar bolt. Vintage Mustang Forums

5. Mounting plate (lower)
The lower mounting plate is welded to the top of the lower portion of the steering column and bolts to the bottom side of the Koyo gear box. See previous picture (center image). I started with a 0.125” plate, drilled a hole large enough to accommodate the lower flange, and then drilled two holes to allow the plate to be bolted to the Koyo gear box. I made a template and will post it shortly. A friend of mine runs a machine shop and tells me he can get a batch water-jetted, let me know if you’re interested. Vintage Mustang Forums

This is how it looks when bolted to the Koyo gear box. Vintage Mustang Forums

6. Metric bolt (Intermediate shaft collar, required for clearance) M8 x 1.25 -30 Hex socket Button Head
The Vue hex bolt that fastens the intermediate shaft to the lower splined Koyo shaft interferes with the lower adapter, however a Hex socket button head bolt has a much lower profile and has plenty of clearance. See the Lower adapter picture above (button head bolt is shown on RHS)


I just hit the picture limit for one post, click on the next post for the remainder of write-up.
 

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Discussion starter · #98 · (Edited)
Continuing from post 97

7. Bearing R18-ZZ
This bearing may not be necessary, its located in the upper portion of the Mustang column, just below the turn signal mechanism. It serves two purposes:
1) Prevents the (steering shaft, slider and steering wheel) from pulling out of the top of the Koyo unit. See explanation in "Sleeve" below
2) Centers the upper portion of the Mustang shaft within the Mustang column.

Picture on LHS is the bearing (bushed)
Center is looking into the Mustang tube from the top
Bottom is the backside of the bearing as seen through the opening for the turn signal wiring. Vintage Mustang Forums

8. Bushing (steel ¾”)
This sleeve floats on the Mustang splined shaft, a small bead is welded ~4.5" from the splined end. This bushing prevents the Mustang steering shaft from pulling out of the Koyo box. The Vue steering shaft is a collapsible design; the portion that bolts to the steering wheel has a splined shaft that can slide up and down the splined shaft that exits the top of the Koyo unit (the "slider"). The shaft is normally prevented from pulling out by a bearing in the upper collapsible tube in the Vue, however we cut off and discard most of the collapsible tube, so the original retaining bearing is lost. The original mustang shaft is welded to the Vue slider, so we need to prevent it from sliding out. This bushing will come in contact with the R18-ZZ bearing shown in the previous section, preventing the steering shaft from pulling out. Note I also fixed the slider to the top Koyo shaft with a couple of set screws, so this bushing and the bearing are redundant, I just wanted some insurance that the steering wheel would never come out even if the setscrew backed out. The bearing and the bushing are dirt cheap insurance. Vintage Mustang Forums

9. Setscrew (1/4")
Drill and tap the slider for two 1/4" set screws. The upper splined shaft that exits the Koyo box has a recess in the top portion of the spline, the setscrews fit into this recess preventing the slider shaft from either pulling out or sliding in. Vintage Mustang Forums

10. Upper tube retaining bolts
The original hex head M6 bolts that retain the upper Vue tube to the Koyo unit interfere with the larger diameter Mustang upper tube. Replace the original bolts with M6 Hex socket style bolts for added clearance. Vintage Mustang Forums

11. Coupling nut (5/16”)
See Mustang U-Channel modifications below

12. Mounting bolt 7” x 5/16”
See Mustang U-Channel modifications below

13. Re-enforcement bar (1” square tube)
See Mustang U-Channel modifications below

14. Pilot bolt 1/4" x 1" Hex socket Button Head to prevent steering column from rotating
See Mustang steering column tube modifications below.

15. Steering controller eBay (Bruno), or improved EPC-100 speed sensitive controller (Slow-poke)
A more accurate name would be PCM emulator. When installed in the original vehicle, the Koyo unit receives messages from the ECM/PCM. These messages serve two purposes:
1) Safety
2) Reference for how much "assist" the unit will provide, this is normally a function of vehicle speed and the "curve" is dependent on the vehicle.

The Bruno controller has no way of knowing vehicle speed, engine RPM or anything else for that matter, it's just a dumb box that spits out the minimum requirements to allow the Koyo unit to function. The potentiometer that is provided allows the end user to adjust the "vehicle speed" manually. Unfortunately there is no perfect setting for the potentiometer that is good for all speeds. I'm very thankful that the Bruno controller was available so I could do my initial testing, however a speed sensitive controller works much better.

As you can see from the pictures in this write-up, my mechanical skills are pretty limited (I'm a hack), however my electronic skills are very strong, so I decided to design a better controller that more closely emulated the original ECM/PCM.

Automotive electronics must operate in a fairly nasty environment:
- wide temperature extremes, ambient of -40deg C in cold climates to 90degC in the dash on a hot day
- voltage fluctuations due to load dumps, tow-truck boosting etc. Short spikes to 400V on the "+12V" etc.
- noise from the ignition system and alternator etc.
All this to say, you can design a low cost circuit that will work fine for a while or perhaps within a limited temperature range however it will not be reliable for very long if not designed for the automotive environment. When choosing components for an electronic design most parts are offered in commercial, industrial, automotive as well as military ratings. I dissected one of the brand "B" controllers and after doing so, would not use it in my vehicle (for many reasons). That being said if it does fail, you will lose the assist, but you can continue to steer, just manually.

Safety is the other important factor. The Koyo unit appears to be very well thought out safety wise, there are numerous shut-down mechanisms built into the Koyo controller for example the torque sensor signals that are critical to safe operation have numerous checks to verify they are operating correctly, imagine what the unit would do if it sensed you were trying to make a hard left turn (when you were simply driving straight down the highway at 60MPH). Unfortunately the brand "B" controller circumvents some of these safety shut-downs.

The controller I have developed measures actual vehicle speed, engine rpm etc. so that it can properly regulate the amount of assist and provide the correct data to the Koyo unit so that the safety shut-down operate as intended. Components are automotive grade. The firmware was developed by a colleague that spent the better part of his career developing code for military applications for example F15 flight trainers. I'm performing environmental tests at the moment. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196089&stc=1&d=1409744539

Mustang steering column tube modifications:
A segment of the original Mustang tube needs to be removed to make room for the Koyo unit.

The top segment is cut to 13.5", note there should be ~7/16 of material between the end of the oval pilot slot and the cut at 13.5" see red lines in picture. Vintage Mustang Forums
The oval slot allows the column tube to be slid to and fro likely to make up for tolerances. For this next step you need to determine where the tab in the mounting collar will line up with the oval slot. When the location is determined, drill a hole ~3/8" in the upper tube, opposite to the original oval slot. The hole is required for the pilot bolt. The pilot hole is shown here. Vintage Mustang Forums Pilot bolt under the dash is shown in post 99

The lower segment is cut to ??? see picture. Vintage Mustang Forums



Upper Mustang shaft assembly
The top segment of the original Mustang shaft must be cut and then welded to the Vue slider and upper steering coupler. Vintage Mustang Forums


Mustang U-Channel modifications:
One of my concerns when starting this project was secure mounting of the Koyo unit as it must generate a fair bit of torque. The Koyo unit has a large steel bushing that is used to mount the unit in the Vue. The Vue has a |_| channel that surrounds this bushing and a bolt passes through the U channel and bushing. The Mustang also has a U channel for the pedals, however its narrower so the bushing on the Koyo unit can't fit inside as it did on the Vue. The way I have the Koyo unit clocked in the Mustang, the motor is pointing up behind the speedometer and the Koyo bushing intersects the Mustang U channel. I welded a coupling nut (1" long nut) to the Mustang U channel and then reinforced the channel with a short piece of 1" square tube. A long 5/16 bolt passes through the Koyo bushing and threads into the coupling nut. Probably over-kill considering there are three other mounting points that prevent the assembly from rotating. When bolted in, the assembly is rock solid. Vintage Mustang Forums


...
 

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Discussion starter · #99 · (Edited)

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Slow-poke, this all looks so good!! I have the same set up as you (in terms of having a manual TCP rack). This all makes sense except the part down towards the fire wall (circled in red), is that where you have a bearing holding up the DD shaft?

Thanks again for all the info, I cannot wait to start working on this project!
 

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