So, with the switch not in place . . . brake lights on??

 

That switch can stick and you might have to file a washer or use a thinner one. John

 

yes with the brake light switch not connected to the brake pedal the brake lights are still on and I have already cleaned all the grounds.

 

Then this a wiring snafu. Because in a series circuit, if you remove a component, there is no flow of current; pretty basic. So somehow your bright filament is getting power. The other way that same filament gets power is through the turn signal circuit . . and nothing else. So your problem must be there. The obvious culprit is the turn signal switch.

 

Engine feed harness would have nothing to do with this. Did you replace any of the other harnesses ? Firewall to headlamp, Under dash harness, turn signal harness, tail light harness.

I've never had a problem with any of the harnesses made by alloy metal products but I have on 2 occasions had issues with harnesses made by Mr. Mustang that had wires that were not in the correct pin location on the molded connector. Had to cut, swap, and solder to correct it. Both were under dash harnesses.

Simple thing to do is trace the brake light feed wire from the brake lights forward. Find out what's feeding the constant power to the brake lights

 

the firewall to headlamp harness is also new (alloy metal products), all the other harnesses are original.

 

Thank you, I will try that. Is there an easy way to test the turn signal switch before I go out and buy one?

 

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. It was with a brand new harness from NPD and it turned out that the harness was pinned out 180* out at the connector. NPD wouldn't take it back because they considered it an electrical part, so they put me in contact with the manufacture. He worked with me and we got it straightened out.

Alex

 

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. It was with a brand new harness from NPD and it turned out that the harness was pinned out 180* out at the connector. NPD wouldn't take it back because they considered it an electrical part, so they put me in contact with the manufacture. He worked with me and we got it straightened out.

Alex[/QUOTE

What do you mean by "pinned out 180*"? Was the problem with your firewall to headlight harness? What did you have to do to straighten it out?

 

Don't worry about another thing until you remove the switch and see what happens. If you remove it and the lights go out . . don't come back here and report it. Go straight to a parts store and get a new switch.

 

Like has been said, if the actual switch is unplugged from the harness the lights will not work. The switch works by completing the circuit when it's "activated" (when you push the pedal down) so if it's unplugged the lights will not work at all, meaning the switch is bad. Take a screw driver and see if you can push the spring part in and out, might be "stuck". Even so, I would get a new switch.

If the lights stay on when you unplug the switch... something really funky is going on.

 

If you installed an aftermarket power brake setup you need a different brake light switch. I had a similar issue and used a brake light switch for 71 mustang. The spring is softer and doesn't turn on brakes until you press down. The switch is cheap from the local auto parts store.

 

As you guys suggested I unplugged the switch and the brake lights went out. Then I bypassed the switch and the lights turned on. You guys were right and the problem is definitely the switch. I don't want to make the same mistake again and buy a cheap switch or the wrong switch. Can anyone recommend an Autozone/NAPA part number? My current switch I bought was from cjponyparts.

 

When you finally do have the solution we appreciate knowing your solution. When others do research it helps them if threads show answers/solutions.

 

Its a NO switch. It is open normally. If you bypass it, you are doing the same as the switch does when it is pushed.

 

If it was a NO switch then when the switch is not installed on the pedal the lights would be on. The switch is closed normally and when it is compressed it is turned on.

My problem has been solved. I replaced my switch with one from a 1971 mustang with power brakes from autozone. Thanks everyone for all of your help.

 

There is also one other place to look. Look at the bulb sockets for each tail light. When I pushed the plug on my tail light housing from the inside, the center pin on each tail light pressed the socket tab (that touches the back of the bulb for brakes) into the other socket tab ( for parking lights) shorting one to the other and causing brake lights on when parking lights are on... I had to take the bulbs out and rebend those tabs in the socket to keep them from touching. You would have thought they would have put some sort of insulation between those pins to prevent this from happening.

 

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