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broken intake bolt

1.5K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  limey302  
#1 ·
While removing the intake on my fathers mach 1 (351 W), 3 of the intake bolts snapped off. All three were at the corners. Any ideas on getting them out. The bolts have soaked in PB Blaster and we are going to try and easy out them. We would hate to remove the heads to have them machined out. Thanks
 
#3 ·
You can use an easy out, but i have had bad luck with them usually. I have had them snap off and if they do they cannot be machined out. Well they can but they will charge you a crap load more cause i believe they are made of hardened graphite which makes them almost undrillable if they snap in the bolt. If you do use one go very slow and take your time. I would first try the good ol' vice grips and some muscle. Also if you have aluminum heads you can heat them up cause it does expand more than a steel bolt will, but of course be care with that cause any extra fuel or oil anywhere can cause a bigger problem. one more thing, i have seen kits for removing bolts that they have lost there heads. Can't say i've used them, but i do know that you hammer them on and its like a socket but the inside has reversed kinda threads on the inside. Very similar to a wheel lock key remover. Might want to look into those.
 
#4 ·
Drill and easy-out is the only way. The best way to loosen really rusted and/or stuck nuts and bolts is with a smoke wrench (oxy-acetylene torch).
 
#6 ·
Do you have any of the remaining stud left sticking out of the head? If so, you could purchase a stud remover and get them out. Sears sells them and they work. You could also do the candle wax trick. Heat the area of the broken stud and quench the heat with a wax candle. The heat will draw the wax in around the threads and when cool, the stud will more than likely be easily removed. The wax trick works with stuck studs that is broken off flush with the head but you will have to drill a hole to use an eazy out to get hold of it to remove it. You could also weld another bolt on top of the broken one and back it out with a wrench/socket if you have welding equipment. That's a few options that are determined by what you have left to work with.
 
#7 ·
I AGREE about the easy outs, once broken off in there your screwed. Being that you say there snapped to the point you have nothing to grab It would probably be best to just have them machined out right from the start. Just my $.02

Scott
 
#8 ·
Let's face it, there is nothing easy about an easy-out. :pissed: If you are worried about making things worse, just bite the bullet and take the head to a machine shop.
 
#9 ·
Take a center punch and mark the broken stud exactly in the middle. Start with a small drill bit, drill it all the way through, go progressively larger until the remaining stock is very thin. Then take a small sharp center punch and carefully chip out the remaining part of the bolt while being very careful not to damage the threads. After you get it all chipped out, chase the threads with a bottoming tap. It is very hard to keep the bit centered in the bolt, but you must to make this work without damaging the threads in the head. The only other way is to drill it all the way out and put in a helicoil or thin wall insert to bring it back to the correct size.
 
#10 ·
try finding a drill bit set with "Left hand threads". chuck it in the drill and put the drill into reverse. The heat alone might turn them out. Stay away from ez outs if possible.The only thing EZ about them is how much money you pull OUT of your wallet when it snaps
 
#11 ·
Every time I have tried an easy out it broke off in the bolt. I just had to have a oil pan bolt removed after the easy out broke off in the bolt hole I drilled. I took the block in, fortunately it was already bare, and had it burned out.

Good luck, broken bolts are a pain in the #%&.
 
#12 ·
I agree, the left hand threaded drill bits run "reverse" and this often helps the broken stud start turning. A modification on this is to drill two holes in the broken stud and then try sticking needle nose pliers into the holes and try twisting it out. This worked for me on a broken alternator mounting bolt in the cylinder head.