I’m replacing the clutch on my ‘67 Shelby GT350 convertible replica. I went with a spec stage 2 which I purchased from CJ pony parts. I’m keeping my 4-speed toploader, and planning on just resurfacing my flywheel (as long as it is in good shape). 1st, I haven’t been able to find any clutch replacement instructions or videos online for this procedure; so if you have one, please post a link. 2nd, while things are apart, what else clutch/transmission related should I be closely inspecting or replacing. Thanks in advance for all the help and suggestions!
Clutch Replacement/Upgrade on ‘67. Need help/suggestions please
Mustangtodd97
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I’m replacing the clutch on my ‘67 Shelby GT350 convertible replica. I went with a spec stage 2 which I purchased from CJ pony parts. I’m keeping my 4-speed toploader, and planning on just resurfacing my flywheel (as long as it is in good shape). 1st, I haven’t been able to find any clutch replacement instructions or videos online for this procedure; so if you have one, please post a link. 2nd, while things are apart, what else clutch/transmission related should I be closely inspecting or replacing. Thanks in advance for all the help and suggestions!
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I’d highly recommend the Ford shop manual. It’ll have accurate, step by step info with all the specs. Basically it’s pretty straight forward. When you have it apart, clean everything up. Clean all the threads on the bolts and bolt holes. Buy a torque wrench. Actually the HF torque wrenches are pretty good!
I might consider buying a new flywheel too. Yes they can be resurfaced but only to a point. How old is your flywheel and how many times has it been cut? By the time you have it machined and possibly a new ring gear you’re going to be in it for about the same as a stock replacement.
Every time you have a flywheel cut it moves the clutch assembly that much closer to the engine. This moves it away from the clutch fork pivot. Yes there is some adjustment but after a point you start to run out of travel on the clutch fork. Off hand I believe the limit for cutting a flywheel is about .060” or about the depth of the champher on the pressure plate bolt holes. When I put my GT40P in I used a PRW billet SFI rated flywheel. It was about $230 to my door. Besides needing a new flywheel I liked the fact it has a safety rating and my feet are definitely worth $230 even if the flywheel is over kill. Even a stock replacement is worth it to your feet in case of a flywheel explosion due to a undetected crack in a old cast iron flywheel of unknown history.
I might consider buying a new flywheel too. Yes they can be resurfaced but only to a point. How old is your flywheel and how many times has it been cut? By the time you have it machined and possibly a new ring gear you’re going to be in it for about the same as a stock replacement.
Every time you have a flywheel cut it moves the clutch assembly that much closer to the engine. This moves it away from the clutch fork pivot. Yes there is some adjustment but after a point you start to run out of travel on the clutch fork. Off hand I believe the limit for cutting a flywheel is about .060” or about the depth of the champher on the pressure plate bolt holes. When I put my GT40P in I used a PRW billet SFI rated flywheel. It was about $230 to my door. Besides needing a new flywheel I liked the fact it has a safety rating and my feet are definitely worth $230 even if the flywheel is over kill. Even a stock replacement is worth it to your feet in case of a flywheel explosion due to a undetected crack in a old cast iron flywheel of unknown history.
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I’d take the opportunity while the transmission is down to change the gear oil in it and inspect for any worn parts in the tranny. It’s much easier to get the gear oil in when the tranny is out of the car. I found a few metal shavings in my oil when I drained it.
You might also take the time to check everything out from the foot pedal linkage rod and bushings to the tranny and make sure that you have no worn parts and plenty of clean grease on all the linkage pivots. Good time to re work the pivot points on the equalizer bar with new bushings and felt pads too.
If you’re really ambitious, while you’re working the clutch, up grading the pedal support with roller bearings will improve the feel and longevity of the pedal support.
Also I agree with the previous post on changing out the flywheel. My original had surface cracks in it that I’m not sure could have been eliminated with just resurfacing. Yours may be better than mine was but I really liked the new flywheel and the clutch is really smooth now. Made a noticeable difference. I went with the Spec stage 1 kit in my 66.
You might also take the time to check everything out from the foot pedal linkage rod and bushings to the tranny and make sure that you have no worn parts and plenty of clean grease on all the linkage pivots. Good time to re work the pivot points on the equalizer bar with new bushings and felt pads too.
If you’re really ambitious, while you’re working the clutch, up grading the pedal support with roller bearings will improve the feel and longevity of the pedal support.
Also I agree with the previous post on changing out the flywheel. My original had surface cracks in it that I’m not sure could have been eliminated with just resurfacing. Yours may be better than mine was but I really liked the new flywheel and the clutch is really smooth now. Made a noticeable difference. I went with the Spec stage 1 kit in my 66.
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