I'm taking about the cost difference including ALL necessary parts to change over to a roller cam. Just the "bare bones" with both cams, not the top shelf products.
arbys
I suggest browsing through summitracing.com to see all available options.
Assuming you currently have a 302 with flat hydraulic cam...
A new flat hydraulic cam and lifter kit can be bought for under $200 and you can reuse your pushrods.
Switching to hydraulic roller you will need cam, lifters, pushrods, and other associated parts.
At least $600 on the low end.
Neither includes a set of new valve springs which may be needed depending on your choice of camshaft.
Assuming you currently have a 302 with flat hydraulic cam...
A new flat hydraulic cam and lifter kit can be bought for under $200 and you can reuse your pushrods.
Switching to hydraulic roller you will need cam, lifters, pushrods, and other associated parts.
At least $600 on the low end.
Neither includes a set of new valve springs which may be needed depending on your choice of camshaft.
Somewhat depends on your goal. If it's a roller cam with a close to "stock" profile for the sake of eliminating the wear issues with flat tappet lifters then your cost will be as suggested. If you're looking for more "performance", the old adage that horsepower costs money applies.
MrFlash is about spot on from the price perspective, not considering the cost for gaskets, a new timing set, and other sundries. Going the roller route you'll probably need a new fuel pump eccentric as well. If you stick with a camshaft profile that is close to stock you MAY get away without new valve springs but I use the operative word... "may". I have seen more cases than I can count on my worn out fingers of valve spring failure after installing a new camshaft with a valve lift that exceeded, even slightly, the old cam. Better to be safe than sorry.
MrFlash is about spot on from the price perspective, not considering the cost for gaskets, a new timing set, and other sundries. Going the roller route you'll probably need a new fuel pump eccentric as well. If you stick with a camshaft profile that is close to stock you MAY get away without new valve springs but I use the operative word... "may". I have seen more cases than I can count on my worn out fingers of valve spring failure after installing a new camshaft with a valve lift that exceeded, even slightly, the old cam. Better to be safe than sorry.
I’m confused. Cost difference between a hydraulic lifter and a roller cam? Those aren’t even the same part. And the most common cams are both hydraulic AND roller.
Hydraulic OR solid
AND
Roller OR flat tappet
Hydraulic OR solid
AND
Roller OR flat tappet
It’s well worth the investment in changing over to a roller..If you don‘t have the $$ to do it now, save the $$ till you can..IMO
For 3-5 bills you can step into a nice used GT40P with a roller cam from the factory.
Initial cost of a flat tappet replacement cam/lifter kit from Jegs/Summit is around 120(house brand)-250 (name brand)
Jegs ect has house brand roller cams for under 250 with out lifters (roller lifters are reusable) or kit with lifters around 450 (cheaper to get a GT40P)
Comp has retro link bar roller lifters for about 320
The price going in is more with rollers , the price and piece of mind not worrying about the right oil and zinc ect, priceless
Initial cost of a flat tappet replacement cam/lifter kit from Jegs/Summit is around 120(house brand)-250 (name brand)
Jegs ect has house brand roller cams for under 250 with out lifters (roller lifters are reusable) or kit with lifters around 450 (cheaper to get a GT40P)
Comp has retro link bar roller lifters for about 320
The price going in is more with rollers , the price and piece of mind not worrying about the right oil and zinc ect, priceless
With the issues with flat tappet cams modern and lubrication packages I changed to a complete roller package in my FE.
I am running a hydraulic roller cam. We see a lot flat tappet cam failures during break-in that was rare in the 80's.
You also won't have to go to Summit or another supplier for something like Brad Penn oil when you do your changes.
Be sure to buy a matched package. You'll have to change your valve springs so it'll be a good time to freshen the heads at the same time or replace them.
I am running a hydraulic roller cam. We see a lot flat tappet cam failures during break-in that was rare in the 80's.
You also won't have to go to Summit or another supplier for something like Brad Penn oil when you do your changes.
Be sure to buy a matched package. You'll have to change your valve springs so it'll be a good time to freshen the heads at the same time or replace them.
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