[Ears]

Like how much? I bought EPAS because I got a screaming good deal on a brand new kit. I have a Chocko 16:1 box and I reckon I am gonna' buy the low friction ball joints in the hope that they'll help. Back injury and muscling that manual steering w/ sticky 225 tires just aren't compatible.

How much caster did you have to plug in?

Thanks

In terms of mistakes on my cars:

• Buy the closest thing to what you want. if you want a red 4spd, don't buy a green automatic and think "well, I can also change it"
• Buy the best car you can afford
• Don't cut corners. Every time I've cut corners, or tried to save money, I've regretted it.
• Don't buy a coupe if you really want a fastback

On the EPAS, I don’t know how much Castor is needed. I maxed out my existing geometry at around 3.5 positive. Only mods I have are roller bearing idler and Arning drop. I’m gonna look at shimming the front UCA mount and, if necessary, then twist the UCA shaft. I’d like to get 5-6 positive, as I’ve read “over 4 positive” will correct the issue. Power assist is not as strong as hydraulic, but easily enough one-handed when parking, etc with a 14” steering wheel. I am running 215’s on 15” rims at 7” wide.

 

[G's 70]

If I could go back to the 80's. I'd buy a Boss or 428CJ car. When they were still somewhat reasonable.

 

[New2me]

If I could go back to the 80's. I'd buy a Boss or 428CJ car. When they were still somewhat reasonable.

Oh man, if you want to go there, when I was 15 or 16 walking home from school every day, there was a body shop with a 69 mach 1 sitting outside. This would have been in like 1981-82, I walked past it every day admiring the sleek lines and the orange paint with the matte black hood. I didn't know it, but the guy that owned it couldn't pay the bill.

A friend of a friend got it for a little bit of nothing. Grr, if only I'd known.

 

[W427]

Apparently, some EPAS controllers have adjustable return-to-center. I was told it's not reduced assistance, but a background counter force that does not increase effort. I'll be looking into them for my EPAS venture. If anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

 

[Clinto]

Apparently, some EPAS controllers have adjustable return-to-center. I was told it's not reduced assistance, but a background counter force that does not increase effort. I'll be looking into them for my EPAS venture. If anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

I have done a fair amount of reading on EPAS systems and I've not encountered that. That includes some back and forth with the tech guys at EPAS Performance, where my kit came from. I talked to them the other day to see if I could tie their controller into a DSS on a TKX in order to modulate the system boost (i.e. high boost at 5 mph, less at 45, none at 110, etc.). They said no but that there was a GPS module which would do essentially the same thing, but that it would take the manual adjustment (the knob) out of the equation. So if you're not happy with the GPS modules boost level, you'd be stuck.

In no way am I saying you are incorrect, just that what you're describing is something I have not seen on any of the EPAS systems I've looked into. All the systems I've looked into had adjustable levels of boost, via knob on a potentiometer. If such a kit or upgrade exists, I'd definitely be interested because RTC issues are my biggest concern with this upgrade. Like I said, I went with it because I bought a brand new system really cheap and thought if I didn't like it, I'd sell it and do a Borgeson system (with all of it's problems).

GPS Auto Adjust Control Module

Say goodbye to manual tweaks and hello to effortless accuracy! This new EPAS Performance GPS Automatic Adjustment controller will be used as an upgrade option to replace the adjustable potentiometer our electric power steering systems currently come equipped with. There is no need for an...

epasperformance.com

This new EPAS Performance GPS Automatic Adjustment controller will be used as an upgrade option to replace the adjustable potentiometer our electric power steering systems currently come equipped with. There is no need for an adjustment knob on this new controller as the GPS antenna modifies the level of steering assistance according to your vehicle's speed.

The user will experience the maximum level of steering assistance while their vehicle is at rest, and the minimum level of steering assistance at high speeds. If for any reason the GPS loses its satellite connection, for example driving through a parking garage or tunnel, the system will keep the last known speed of the vehicle until the signal has been restored.

Installing the GPS antenna on your windshield will provide the quickest signal connection, while installing it under the dash will only take the system a few seconds more to get an accurate GPS signal.

 

[W427]

They indicate it shouldn't be a problem when set-up properly, as in some I've driven. Perhaps you just need a different alignment? Does this look like you want (4° and other spec's as seen on the forums here), or something different?

 

[lalojamesliz]

I would have skipped the fox body i bought for parts,
Skipped the 69 cougar I bought for parts,
Skipped the cobra brakes I bought and sold,
Skipped the msd distributor, skipped the 70 mustang front drum spindles, skipped the 351w air gap intake, paid the extra $1k and gotten a dart block instead, covered my windshield when I was grinding near it, Purchased a new transmission.... thats the majority of my regrets.

Some of these purchases did have nice experiences but my car would have been done much sooner.

 

[Mike the old grump]

I like #10 in the original list. But, might find a better option than a CD.

Can I add #11? Spend more time with the pretty redhead and less time playing car.

 

[Ears]

Apparently, some EPAS controllers have adjustable return-to-center. I was told it's not reduced assistance, but a background counter force that does not increase effort. I'll be looking into them for my EPAS venture. If anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears!

Nope, I’m Ears! 😁
I’ll have to try lowering the assistance and see if it has a counter effect. I have turned it off and driven, just to confirm no issues, but I typically leave it at max for ease of slow maneuvering. Hmm….

 

[69RR]

Like how much? I bought EPAS because I got a screaming good deal on a brand new kit. I have a Chocko 16:1 box and I reckon I am gonna' buy the low friction ball joints in the hope that they'll help. Back injury and muscling that manual steering w/ sticky 225 tires just aren't compatible.

How much caster did you have to plug in?

Thanks

In terms of mistakes on my cars:

• Buy the closest thing to what you want. if you want a red 4spd, don't buy a green automatic and think "well, I can also change it"
• Buy the best car you can afford
• Don't cut corners. Every time I've cut corners, or tried to save money, I've regretted it.
• Don't buy a coupe if you really want a fastback

On the #1 statement- Lol well I did buy a green fastback auto. Now it's an orange 4spd. If only there were more reasonably priced fastbacks and I was anxious to find a decent one within a 500 mile radius. Beggars can't be choosers sometimes. But I agree with you. However it's been a learning experience that's for sure making these changes

 

[74Rallye]

I would have figured out how to not spend $1K on a droning exhaust system. I know most like it loud, but I want to hear and analyze every noise the car makes.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

In reality, the only thing I would do different with my car is go with AFR 205 heads instead of reusing the AFR 185 heads on the 427 stroker.

In dreamland, knowing what I know now, I might convert my coupe to a fastback..... I think my car would be even more badass just by being a fastback.... However, I still love it in coupe form...

 

[mikemstang66]

Marriage

 

[xj220]

Definitely agree with #8, I unfortunately ditched some salvageable original parts that would’ve been better. A little work can bring most parts back to new assuming they’re not too worn, damaged, or rusted.

Others for me are not trying to get too fancy and stick with what is known and works, spend a little extra upfront and get the seats I wanted instead of waiting until I get to them on third pair, and buying/doing most of the work several years ago before everything got way too expensive.

 

[Clinto]

On the #1 statement- Lol well I did buy a green fastback auto. Now it's an orange 4spd. If only there were more reasonably priced fastbacks and I was anxious to find a decent one within a 500 mile radius. Beggars can't be choosers sometimes. But I agree with you. However it's been a learning experience that's for sure making these changes

Well, I admit, I did (do) have to learn everything the hard way.

1. I bought this in June of 1992, a few months after I turned 16.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Aaaaaaaaaaaand this is me about 3 months later converting it to a 4spd. I don't know if the trans was just ready to go, or the teenage shenanigans caused it but it unalived itself shortly after it came home. I wanted a 4speed but I searched and searched and couldn't find a car I wanted with a stick, so I bought this. An enormous amount of help from my friends in the Mopar club was required, as I was a HS student bagging groceries and my parents were like "Not out circus, not our clowns". One friend just gave me the correct 4speed and let me pay him off, another friend gave me a used clutch from his car which still had plenty of life, I swapped the dead 727 for a used Hurst Comp-Plus, etc.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   It was easier for me to pull the 340 and 727 together and put the engine and 4 speed back in the car together, so I took that opportunity to do a bunch of other stuff. Converted the discs to manual, detailed the engine compartment, fixed the A/C, put headers on it, cam swap and resealed/repainted the engine.
   
   
   
2. It took me about 25 years of waiting to find this:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   When I bought the Duster, of course I wanted a black on black A-12 Road Runner, but I was a bagger. The store manager did have a Superbird. So I bought what I could afford.
   
   The Slowback certainly was not reasonably priced for what all it needs (I think they're all overpriced for what they are), but I am right side up in it. But, it's a good color (Black on red), it's a A-code, 4spd and it's decent. It's always going to hold it's value. It's solid - good unibody, good floors and frames, etc. I had to wait a long time to find a fastback I could afford, that was equipped how I wanted it, was in good shape, etc.
   
   I have bought a lot of cars and converted them into what I wanted and I have found the money is always better spent up front, buying what you want. I had to learn that the hard way by losing a lot of money on a lot of cars. Patience is a virtue, and it's one I didn't have as a teenager.

 

[Ears]

They indicate it shouldn't be a problem when set-up properly, as in some I've driven. Perhaps you just need a different alignment? Does this look like you want (4° and other spec's as seen on the forums here), or something different?

One thing I am going to do is return to a 16” steering wheel. The 14” there now was just for build purposes. With tilt and smaller wheel, more room was afforded when working under dash, etc. I have this restored and ready when I finish up the carpet, console, etc. I know it has nothing to do with RTC, but will de-sensitize the corrections

 

[66coupe289]

When young and stupid I would not have put a bottle jack under the frame rails.

 

[RogerC]

Selling my 72 Gran Torino Sport.

 

[Klutch]

I would have figured out how to not spend $1K on a droning exhaust system. I know most like it loud, but I want to hear and analyze every noise the car makes.

Just in case it might help...

I had a droning issue with my expensive exhaust system. I went to multiple exhaust shops and none of them would install the Dynomax mufflers I wanted. They said, "Flowmaster or Magnaflow. Anything else won't last". I went with Flowmaster and regretted it. I went back to the exhaust shop and told the owner the drone was ridiculous. He installed resonators before the mufflers and that was a HUGE help. It's quieter and the drone is almost nonexistent.

 

[69RR]

Well, I admit, I did (do) have to learn everything the hard way.

1. I bought this in June of 1992, a few months after I turned 16.
   View attachment 1006450
   
   View attachment 1006449
   
   Aaaaaaaaaaaand this is me about 3 months later converting it to a 4spd. I don't know if the trans was just ready to go, or the teenage shenanigans caused it but it unalived itself shortly after it came home. I wanted a 4speed but I searched and searched and couldn't find a car I wanted with a stick, so I bought this. An enormous amount of help from my friends in the Mopar club was required, as I was a HS student bagging groceries and my parents were like "Not out circus, not our clowns". One friend just gave me the correct 4speed and let me pay him off, another friend gave me a used clutch from his car which still had plenty of life, I swapped the dead 727 for a used Hurst Comp-Plus, etc.
   
   View attachment 1006452
   
   View attachment 1006451
   It was easier for me to pull the 340 and 727 together and put the engine and 4 speed back in the car together, so I took that opportunity to do a bunch of other stuff. Converted the discs to manual, detailed the engine compartment, fixed the A/C, put headers on it, cam swap and resealed/repainted the engine.
   
   
   
2. It took me about 25 years of waiting to find this:
   View attachment 1006457
   
   View attachment 1006456
   
   View attachment 1006455
   
   View attachment 1006454
   
   When I bought the Duster, of course I wanted a black on black A-12 Road Runner, but I was a bagger. The store manager did have a Superbird. So I bought what I could afford.
   
   The Slowback certainly was not reasonably priced for what all it needs (I think they're all overpriced for what they are), but I am right side up in it. But, it's a good color (Black on red), it's a A-code, 4spd and it's decent. It's always going to hold it's value. It's solid - good unibody, good floors and frames, etc. I had to wait a long time to find a fastback I could afford, that was equipped how I wanted it, was in good shape, etc.
   
   I have bought a lot of cars and converted them into what I wanted and I have found the money is always better spent up front, buying what you want. I had to learn that the hard way by losing a lot of money on a lot of cars. Patience is a virtue, and it's one I didn't have as a teenager.

Our stories seem to follow similar paths! I was a kid who wanted a super bee so bad. I found one a 69 that was clapped out and had no transmission but a rebuilt 383 with 4 89 or 4 88 gears in an 8 and 3/4 rear end. I put a 4spd in it with the help of friends oh man what pain in a**. None had any working knowledge with exception of a Chilton's book lol. We even attached the bell to the trans instead of the engine and lined up input shaft by sight. 12 hours later it was done. Good times good times...really was.
My friend who I worked bagging groceries got an A12 superbee in V2 orange 4spd with Mr Gasket Vertigate shifter. I fell in love with that car ..still am...
In my life I've had 2 A12 Superbees (V2 and B5) and 1 A12 Roadrunner (K2) all decent cars and the roady was original paint. But life and kids and a divorce separated from my dream car (the B5 blue 4spd with a white tail stripe).
Now into mustangs nearly got a black with a red interior car but pulled the trigger a day late lol..story of my life.
Now I have a Ivy green with an Ivy gold interior but wrapped it in orange because I was never a big fan of green. The wrap is nice and has held up well.
But if a Superbee comes around sorry to say I would drop the Mustang like a bad habit. A Mopar guy forever ❤