A mustang guy I work with frequently said that the starter soleniod may get burned out by running the higher voltage through the I post all the time, is this a possibility?

Nonesense. I by-passed my resistor wire, doing just what you suggested, a couple years ago on my '66 and it's my daily driver, 365 days/year.

If you're coil can take a full 12v and you no longer have points, there's ZERO reason for the resistor wire.

That being said, the resistor wire is not your problem. As we stated in your other post, your coil is being powered by the MSD6A-L. The MSD6 box doesn't care if you have a resistor wire or not. It gets it's power straight from the battery (it can use the resistor wire to signal "on" or "off" of the engine ... or a full 12v, it simply doesn't care). The full 12v battery power via the BIG red wire charges the capacitor in the box, and that capacitor is what is supplying a full 12v to your coil, regardless of whether or not you have a resistor wire still installed.

 

In looking back over your prior posts, my first guess is that your MSD6A-L is hooked up way wrong. The ONLY thing that can hook to the coil is the wires from the MSD6. DO NOT run any other wires from anywhere to the coil. The MSD supplies the voltage for the coil ... NOTHING else does.

Maybe you should describe how your MSD box is hooked up (and refresh our memories of exactly what your ignition system is made up of).

 

Johnpro--

Thanks for your responses on bypassing the resistor wire. I also did not think that it would hurt the solenoid, but I wanted to make sure.

I do think that you have my posts confused, or you just misread them, as I do NOT have a MSD box. I have the ready to run dizzy, 8352, which runs straight off the blaster III coil, which in turn currently gets its power from an external relay, but previously from wire 16/16B.

I may get the 6AL box in the near future, but I would like to eliminate some excess wiring right now, and make a better solution to get the 12V.

Was there a preferred way you found to by pass the wire? My plan was just to run another wire through the firewall through an alternate hole, and then connect to the 2 wires on the other side. Were you able to actually tap into the harness, remove the resistor wire, and install a new one, or did you do something like I have mentioned?

Thanks
Dave

 

that wire going to solenoid is a "wired or" circuit in logic terms which means you get voltage from one wire or other. when you are in "start" position that provides 12 Vs to coil which overrides the 6 to 9 Vs from the resistor wire and gives more voltage to coil during cranking for better starting since starter pulls battery voltage down to 9 to 10 Vs during cranking. as soon as you release ign key to "run" that 12 V goes away because of relay in solenoid. you won't harm anything if you jumper around or replace "pink"/ballast wire - i would just leave it there if you should ever decide to go back. just connect it as you suggested and you will have 12 Vs for coil in "run" poosition of ignition switch. PM me if questions.

 

Woops, so sorry. I could have sworn that you'd said you had an MSD6A-L. That changes everything, and maybe the low voltage is actually causing the miss.

I actually just clipped the resistor wire and stripped it about 1/2" from the firewall and connected to it. Not the best way in the world, I'm sure, but effective and it works well. It may drop me still a couple amps, but the drop is very minimal with only 1/2" long resistor wire.

 

Thanks guys, I will go ahead and do that next time I get a few minutes.

Dave