I did my 70 boss clone and with that harness and I used a painless when I built a SC COBRA kit car. Believe me, I suck at wiring and I managed. You are correct, the directions are pretty weak at best. I started to route the wiring to the sections of the car (back, front, etc.). I'm sure you know that there are wires from the fuse block that go to the dash and on the other side of the fuse block the wires go out to the lights, etc. Just take your time. If you have questions, send me an email. I will try to help.

 

I did Painless 100% through out Red and will probably do so on Shag. The only part I didn't like it Painless's through firewall grommet set up. Too big and butt ugly, so I created my own.

Otherwise, I felt their instructions to be great.

 

I've used the EZ harness on several projects. I cut the factory connectors off for things such as wipers and heater and connected them to the new harness. You will have plenty of extra wire on the EZ harness to make connections and route wires the cleanest way. A schematic of your factory wiring is a huge help. It's not hard to do if you take your time. When confused just set back and look at the factory wiring diagram and it will start to make sense. I just used this same setup on my 64 Falcon a few weeks ago and completed the job start to finish in less than 8 hours including taking the old wiring out.

 

I purchased a ez2wire kit and was a bit overwhelmed. I went back to stock type wiring and was much happier. I will also be the first to admit that electricity is one of my weaknesses. There are a few people on here that have used that very kit so you shouldnt have any problems getting help. You should also have received a 1-800 number with the kit for technical help. You need to look at the smaller picture instead of the whole thing. Set it on the living room floor and sort into bundles according to the area they are destined for. This makes the spaghetti mess a little more manageable. HTH

 

I used the ez-wiring 21 kit.. It's frikkin huge.. I should have got the smaller one. I couldn't even find a place ot mount the damn thing. But anyways, the instructins kind of suck. Off hand, I think there is a screw up in the headlight switch part, and the turn signal switch neglects to mention the brown wire, which must go to your ignition switch "Run" position. Others wise, no blinky blinky. PM me if you have problems. My wiring is still uncovered.

 

Good morning, I have a harness that's pretty much an exact copy for my 69 mustang ran into an issue where everything works car starts runs all lights work except for turn signals. I found out if you turn the key and hold it all the way to start my turn signals work. Now I'm looking at the ignition switch I followed the guide but I'm just absolutely confused

 

If someone can let me know where the front wiring gets routed through the firewall, that would be great. I called the EZ wiring guy and he gave me some info. Apparently, I will no longer be using those big bulky plugs for the dash and such, as those were to “steal” power from other places. He said now all his wires are just wire straight into the device and that is it. I am going to start to work on this now.

 

I am watching this post with great interest.
Seems like a good time to reroute wires through and above wheel wells.

I have not decided yet which wiring kit to get.

 

I will post pictures as I go for others if the are interested. I am kinda interested myself.....this should be fun..

 

Not sure of the year Mustang that you have, but I ran the wires for temp, oil gauge, heater motor, ignition thru the hole near the center of the firewall behind the engine. That kept them compact and presentable. The wires for lights, horn, solenoid, etc I ran out of the hole in the corner of the firewall near the master cylinder. I then cut a small hole in the inner fender and ran them under the inner fender to totally hide them. They are in a plastic tube secured to the car with hangers bolted to the bottom of your fender bolts with 5/16 nuts.
Make sure that you use some type of grommet where wires pass thru metal.
Just seperate wires into smaller groups to route them where you need. Also, get yourself a few gang plugs from the parts store, 4 5 and 6 wire plugs. This way you can build a harness for your instruments so if you ever need to pull the dash it's easier.
Depending on options on your car, you will have several wires and circuits not used. I shorten those wires and cap them. They can be used later if you ad some more power acc.
If you need anything send me a PM and I'll try to help

 

I am interested in project as well. I just bought a Ron Francis kit (express kit for fords) My wife saw all the wires that came in the kit- and thought I was crazy for trying this on my own.

Anyway, I just took out the old harness and I had to remove the fresh air vent (I figured I didn't really need it since I have a convertible) to mount the fuse box because it is a monster. I will provide some feedback to the boards once I complete the project.

 

I redid a 68 coupe with ez wiring. It made since to me since I was rewiring the entire car to remove all old wiring hook ups. Glad i did alot of the old wiring had busted connectors so no matter what i would have done it still wouldnt have worked!! Its my daughters car so she did most of the work herself. ( yes she did it I watched to make sure it was correct , My words to her were " If youre going to drive a classic you better know how to fix it if you have to".) By the way she has done as much work on her 68 if not more than me... Back to wiring, connections were easy and had the cars starting in 5 minutes. Of course the lights and etc took a lil longer.. Since installing this 21 circuit we installed an alarm with everything on it electric window , hood lock and trunk opener. she wanted that for shopping lol As far as which wiring harness is best in m case ez wiring was it for me. but some people like the other one? Oh and customer service was awesome called and made arraingements for help on a sat. thx ez wiring

 

I routed most things through the hole near the brake booster on my 67. Then routed along the fender aprons, through the rad support, etc.. I screwed up the headlights nad didn't route them through the front fender aprons though. Woops...

I routed some (T5 transmission, VSS, etc) through that middle hole mentioned above.. But I also had some other things coming there for fuel injection.

 

I have to rewire our 65 Fastback & I am debating on weather to go back to factory wiring or go with one of the aftermarket ones. I will also follow this post with great interest.

 

OK...so I didn't get to do a lot on the car yesterday. Spent most of the time running around and chasing parts. Once that was done, I did a few small things. I checked to try and find a place to mount the montster 21 circuit fuse box. From others who have done it, where did you mount it? I am having issues with that. I am thinking of mounting it straight against the firewall, over where the hump would be, but I am unsure if that will be in the way of anything else. Who else has used this massive fuse box and where have you mounted it? Thanks.

 

21 circuits? Sounds like an overkill, especially if you can't put the fuse box in the original location. One of the reasons I used Painless's 14 circuit set up. Fuse box in same old spot.

Running wires through the firewall - I assume EZ is similar to Painless as being solid wire through the firewall with no connectors like original? Did they supply you with some big rubber grommets requiring you to make bigger holes in the firewall?

Here's some pics which I did. Painless wanted me to cut the heck out of the firewall for some large metal plates and rubber grommets. This was because you had to run the new wire connectors through the firewall with wires attached.

I instead disconnected the wires from the connectors, ran the wires through the original holes and reconnected the wires back to their connectors under the dash.


Here's a pic showing what they wanted me to install and what I did differently. You can see the small oval shaped grommets. Click on the next button and you can see how I attached the grommets to the firewall.

 

nice descriptive montage of pics there.... I was wondering about the INT. Wiper setup...Were those used parts and if so how much did they run..I also liked the do-it-yerself schematic plan..NICE as always

 

Yeah the 21 standard size is too big. Thats what I used. I wish I got the mini blade one.

I ended up mounting it right above and to the right of the gas pedal in my 67. Which posed a problem because I used a 69 gas pedal for my fuel injection. There is also an oblong cutout up there for some reason.. So I have it bolted in there at a 45 degree angle... It's the only way it would clear everything.. :lol:

I didn't want to mount near the hump I figured the heater box or something would get in the way but I didn't know for sure.

 

I think I am going to have to do the same thing. I looked at the setup, and I think I am going to have to mount it to the right of the gas pedal as well. My concern is the wiper motor and such. But we will have to see. Also will the wires for the instrument panel all reach? I agree, looking back I should have gotten the mini fuse box.

 

Johnny K...can you tke some pics of what you have and post them? That would be most helpful. Thanks.

 

I ended up doing what Johnnyk did. I mounted the monster fuse box right above the gas pedal and right below the opening for the engine wiring harness plug. I will try to post some pictures...

 

Was anyone able to get some pictures of the fuse box and wiring? I am in the process of working with this and want to get this figured out. Thanks.

 

Does my 16 year old post help? How do you know your 'copy of a harness' is the same?

 

It might I do have a brown wire ign sw ign that's not listed on the Ford directions
Did you tie the brown wire in with the pink wire ign sw ign ?
To answer the other question is the directions are the exact same color code and all same fuse box I got it off Southwest performance parts everything looks exactly identical just a different brand name.