To me it's six of one and half a dozen of another.
FWIW: I'm using an ancient Lakewood scattershield with the spacer plate for my T5. I already had the scattershield.

 

So.. the clutch fulcrum in an early car is cast and tapped into the engine block. Not the bell housing. (Small block).

the adaptor pivots I have seen are to place the pivot ball onto the block as well.

so, if you are using a stock z bar.. there should be no difference.

the only thing different could be the spacing and geometry of the clutch fork aNd inner fork pivot.

 

the only thing different could be the spacing and geometry of the clutch fork aNd inner fork pivot.

That’s what I’m wondering.... I have a 68 which was a factory manual (3speed) and was converted to a t-5 with the stock housing and the use of the spacer. Everything works great and nothing had to be changed. Meaning the z-bar and clutch linkage was pretty much left alone and it works flawlessly.

This summer I converted my 65 c4 to a manual t5 too. For this conversion I bought a new late model bellhousing and the fulcrum kit to allow the use of a z-bar. I can’t seem to get it to work as well as the 68 and I’ve checked and rechecked everything with the Z-bar and alignment. It works okay but the pedal feels ‘creaky’ and not as smooth as it does in the 68. Since this was an automatic before, I had to source all the manual pieces needed and I made sure to get the best I could. Opentracker zbar and rods, roller bearing kit etc... I think I tracked the issue to the clutch fork area and it’s alignment. Maybe I didn’t install the fulcrum piece correctly and it’s causing the less than perfect function. Part of me thinks I should’ve sourced an original bellhousing and gone the route of the 68. Anyway, I’m looking at experience from others here and maybe advice on what else I can do now. Thanks

 

When you say "fulcrum adapter" which are you talking about, A or B?
A) the adapter bracket used on 5.0 engine blocks that are not drilled and tapped for the z-bar pivot stud.

1964-1973 302 5.0 Clutch Equalizer Pivot Mount Bracket

California Pony Cars 1965-1968 Ford Mustang Clutch Equalizer Bar Pivot Point Bracket. Our Retrofit bracket used when doing 5.0 engine conversion as...

calponycars.com

B) the spacer that moves the clutch release lever fulcrum towards the engine.

1967-1970 Fulcrum & Spacer Block

1967-1970 Ford Mustang Fulcrum & Spacer Block kit, This kit offered by California Pony Cars is used when doing a Borg Warner/World Class or TRE...

calponycars.com

 

B) the fulcrum and spacer block. I should’ve specified the block I have is a 289 with the threaded hole for the the z bar. No issues there.

 

Do your clutch release lever and the fulcrum match each other? The early release lever was held to the fulcrum with a wire clip. The later release lever had a sheet metal clip riveted to the backside and the sheet metal clip passed through a hole in the fulcrum. The CPC Fulcrum and Spacer kit includes the late fulcrum with the hole in it. If you are trying to use that fulcrum with an early wire clip release lever it may not work and is the cause of your "creaky" problem. I don't know what will happen because I never tried that combination.

 

Do your clutch release lever and the fulcrum match each other?

Yeah both the release lever and fulcrum are for 67 and up. I bought them together and made sure they would be compatible.

I think like Havoc65 alluded to... I needed to measure twice and drill once. My thinking is I probably screwed up the placement of the fulcrum and spacer block on the bellhousing.

I guess I have to live with it as is or get another bellhousing and try again. Or source an original style housing and get the spacer and go that route... or go hydraulic. Driving it as is, is not terrible but annoying. Especially in light to light traffic.

 

I used a Fox mustang bell housing and a fulcrum adapter for my swap. Measure twice and drill once and you’ll be fine. I have the mustang Steve bearings in my pedal hanger and used Opentracker’s z bar kit. Very smooth clutch operation. It’s a little stiffer than my 2012 wranglers hydraulic clutch but I can easily push it down with one hand.

 

They both have advantages. With the vintage bellhousing just bolt on the adapter and go. With the T5 bellhousing without the adapter, it's one less thing to go wrong. You have less stacking of tolerances. The down side to the T5 with the fulcrum, I don't think you'll find a boot to cover the fork opening. There was one off something like a F500 that fit but no longer available.

 

I never did figure out a fork boot solution and left it open. I live in sunny California and the car rarely sees rain or bad weather so I don’t worry about it.

 

Guy's, I just installed a 95 302 in car with a 4sp top loader, 95 clutck-66 throw out bearing and I have to screw over 1/4" preload on fork rod to engage clutch, called Centerforce and they said I needed fulcrum spacer-but why with all the same motor swaps as mine NO-ONE seems to have this problem?
1. 66 car
2. 95 motor
3. 95 clutck and flywheel
4. 66 TO bearing
5. 66 bell housing*****
Thanks for any help*

 

Guy's, I just installed a 95 302 in car with a 4sp top loader, 95 clutck-66 throw out bearing and I have to screw over 1/4" preload on fork rod to engage clutch, called Centerforce and they said I needed fulcrum spacer-but why with all the same motor swaps as mine NO-ONE seems to have this problem?
1. 66 car
2. 95 motor
3. 95 clutck and flywheel
4. 66 TO bearing
5. 66 bell housing*****
Thanks for any help*

Because, typically, You'd use MATCHING parts... Most would use a 50oz flywheel drilled for the "Long" style cover and use a '66 clutch, cover and release bearing. If you went with a '95 bellhousing most would use the '95 flywheel, clutch, cover and release bearing.

 

I am not aware of any fulcrum kit for an early bellhousing. I don’t think that’ll get you anything.

 

well it has the same fork anti-rattle clip, you drill out rivets and bolt the spacer in place,