So I found out that the back haf of the frame rail was in 2 pieces and its olny getting worse

 

My 67 convertible was a MI car and I replaced a lot of the sheet metal myself. I have Groomsrestos finishing it for me and Lonnie had to do some re-aligning while putting the back end back on straight. it is looking great now, but I didn't have bracing in place the way I should, though I did do one replacement at a time and supported in many places.

 

Realistically? On a chassis jig.

 

You have a HUGE job ahead. It will probably only get worse. Good luck.

 

Wow, that is worse than my car was. That is major surgery. Are you ready for it? You are going to have to remove virtually every component from your car to fix it correctly. Interior, rear end and springs, engine, transmission, etc.
You will have to support the vehicle at major structural components, but it looks like many are compromised. I think I would build a frame jig to mount the car on, for those major repairs.

 

Have you considered a full floor assy for this project? I hope you arent thinking you're going to piece that car back together!

 

First, theres no repairing that. You're in for a full replacement.

If it was just the section from wheel tub back that's pretty easy, I've done both of them. You'll need a full rail from the torque box to tail light panel brace. Removing the full trunk floor, wheel tub, part if not all the rear floor and prob inner rocker by looks of it. Def set the car up on a jig and door bracing to keep square.

They do make the rails, just a lot of work to do it. Been there, done that. See my link below for an idea.

To do it right by the looks of the rot, you're better off cutting the entire underside of the car out and replacing with this that has everything already set in place.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/complete-floor-pan-assembly-coupe-fastback-1965-1968/p/FLP20/?gclid=CjwKCAjwscGjBhAXEiwAswQqNINAKTwagVS-CcNrTgYFYSduiPCrBHGlyUpOxj4LI1Q__GTuLGjI0hoCGc4QAvD_BwE

 

I don’t think there is anything left on the driver’s side to brace it to and how can i buld a frame jig

 

Well, here are some plans for a chassis jig....

As a note, and please don't take this the wrong way.... if you have to ask how to build a chassis jig or how to support the vehicle shown in your photos in order to repair the rust I'd have to believe you're in a little over your head with this project. It might be time to search out someone selling a jig they're finished with.... we did that a couple months ago with ours (see photos below) or have someone do the purely structural repairs and take over from there... Again, no offense intended.

 

Could it be possible to buld a assembly that would be the rear frame rail, both torque boxes, rocker, b pillar ,and floor support and just weld it all in at once

 

Unless this car has sentimental value you should just scrap it and start over with a better candidate for restoration. I don't see anything worth saving and you will spend megadollars on it.

 

Have to agree esp after looking at your other pics

Help with supporting the driver’s side

I need some help with figuring out where i can support the driver’s side of my 65 coupe the rocker is basically gone and same with the both frame rails and the olny area that it looks like i can support the car to repair the rust on the driver’s side is the roof rail and i do not have the space...

www.vintage-mustang.com

 

Personally, unless you are skilled and have the space and equipment, I would not attempt that car. You will basically be starting from scratch and laying pieces in and aligning them and welding them. You really don't have much of the original vehicle for a guide.
I have been working on my car for 7 years. I am close now, but it is a long road. It's easy to jump in and get discouraged after you have sunk a bunch of time and money into a project.
I mean no disrespect, but I think you may be over your head on this one. If you are set on a Mustang, I think I would save up some more and get something not as labor intensive.
No criticism, just a honest opinion.

 

Thank you everyone for all of the help and thank you for the criticism and yes i am most definitely in over my head for a first project car but i dont want to junk this one because it doesn’t feel right to junk a 65 mustang and i am going to try to save it

 

Save it by reusing any parts you can, trim, glass, dash, etc. Let the body and rest go.

 

And no mine didn’t have a drivetrain when I bought it and I think the reason the rust is so bad is because it sat in a feild in Michigan for the past 20 years

 

I agree with others that is a lot of metal to replace but if you are determined to save it you may want to start with something like this?

Floor / Frame Complete Coupe / Fastback 1964 1/2 - 1968 - Dynacorn

Dynacorn 3648RWT Mustang Floor / Frame Complete Coupe / Fastback 1964 1/2 - 1968 - Dynacorn

www.kentuckymustang.com

 

Thank you for the help but i have looked at that option and I don’t think I could do that because I don’t really have that much space to try to install that assembly

 

I know its not a good idea to try to save the body on this one but i want to try and save it because most of the passenger side in better condition and I already have some of the metal needed

 

I really don't like to discourage anyone but you will be majoriy upside down on a project like this. The time you are going to have to put into this car, you'd be better off working another part time job and stashing the money for a much better car.

 

Im going to still try to save it

 

What would happen if I welded the rear spring together because i dont plan on reusing the rear axel and springs and if i welded it could it hold the weight of the veichle

 

What the springs are still attached to doesn't look like much and what good metal is there to get a decent weld out of?

You really need to find a steel supplier, build a 2x2 frame under it with vertical mounting points to rockers, outer cowl side panels, rear taillight panel brace etc and cut the bottom of the car out. However, looking at all the pics, you're key mounting points are rusted away as well.

 

30 second search of Detroit metro area (where i think you are) and this comes up. You'll have WAY more $$ in sheetmetal alone vs. what this car is priced at.

65 mustang - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

Selling 65 mustang have 85% of the car price is for the shell and interior parts but also have motor and trans and many extra parts please call Jerry don’t not receive text messages 313 58two865two

detroit.craigslist.org

 

thank you for sourcing a shell but i like the patina on mine

 

but i like the patina on mine

 

And yes I know its a very stupid decision to try to save mine but im going to try anyway

 

Good luck, learning what to do and what not to do is part of the journey! Don't take any advise as criticism, it's only the opinion of folks who have been there before.

 

Thank you for the help and I don’t plan to put a inline 6 back into mine and i haven’t taken any of this criticism negativity at all ive seen it as more of a positive thing

 

Well if you are definitely set to go forward with your project, I offer one piece of advise in which I mean no disrespect. Get yourself organized and have a plan. I know your pictures are just a few shots, but it seems you are lacking space and a good working area. I see a steering wheel sitting in the middle of the floor, along with various "stuff" in and around the car. I'm sorry to be so blunt, and we all have struggled at times with having enough space to work in, but you'll need more organization and a systematic approach to do a project of this scale.