At this point I am putting it back together as you can see. A few issues at this point maybe you can help me solve.

First, where to cut the metal fuel line to run a rubber one to the barbed in of the fuel line that goes to the carburetor? Where is the preferred cut to make it easy and maintain as much metal line as possible? Or, since the two lines look like different diameters, do I need to run a new line all the way to the fuel pump?

Second, is there a preferred method for the pcv line or just run it from the carburetor to the valve cover? Looks like a much smaller hose than before, is this an issue?

Lastly,any ideas on running the metal line from the distributor to the carburetor since the new carburetor does not have a direct fit connection?

 

I would recommend ordering a 66 model year fuel line which runs in front of the distributor and has a barb formed on the end to keep the hose on. That Edelbrock fuel line kit has a -6AN connection with 3/8" hose barb. -6 AN Male Flare to 5/16" Hose Barb Adapter Fitting AN6 6AN -6AN 5/16 Push Lock | eBay A 5/16" to -6AN would make the connection easier

 

Your original fuel line is 5/16" and the new carb probably has a 3/8" fitting. I can never find brass fittings online so I have to go to the auto parts and look in their paper catalog for the fitting I need. You need a 90* fitting that has a female inverted flare to screw onto your metal fuel line and then it will have a 3/8" hose barb to attach to your carb. You can bend your metal line so that you only need a 2" piece of rubber hose to connect the 2 barbs.
You need another barb fitting that has a male inverted flare to screw into the distributor and then a run a rubber hose to the carb.
Is that brass nipple on the base of the carb the PCV port? If your existing PCV hose is too large to fit on that nipple you can buy barbed hose connectors that have a different size barb on each end. Connect the large end to your existing PCV line and then use a short piece of smaller hose to connect the smaller end to the carb.

 

So, if I am understanding correctly, use this fuel line for a 1966. This will connect to the fuel pump and has the connection fitting on one end.

Classic Tube Fuel Line Pump to Carburetor Stainless Steel Mustang 289 1966-1968

Classic Tube Stainless Steel Fuel Pump to Carburetor Line for 1966, 1967 and 1968 Mustangs with a 289 Engine.

www.cjponyparts.com

And the other end will attach to this:

-6 AN Male Flare to 5/16" Hose Barb Push Lock Adapter Fitting | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for -6 AN Male Flare to 5/16" Hose Barb Push Lock Adapter Fitting at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Then, it is easy to attach both barbs

 

Correct, that steel line should run in front of the distributor and end close enough that you attach to the barb with a small section of hose. You may have to tweak the line some to match with the edlebrock, I would recommend the steel line versus stainless as it would be easier to tweak.

 

Update: Waiting on the pcv fitting and hose and also the fuel line and fitting. Also trying to figure out the distributor fitting. I am going to work on the carburetor linkage but will try to sort it out. Not sure it connects like the original.

 

I am hoping someone has this exact setup and can provide a photo of how this linkage goes back together. I was told by Edelbrock when ordering the manifold I needed an adapter, which I purchased, but not sure how it all fits back together. It looks like the holes in the adapter plate match the holes in the manifold, and it is for the kick down function. I am not sure I have all the parts I need, I don't see any new springs in my carburetor kit. Also, where is the best and/or correct method to attach the electric choke lines?

 

Did more research on the forum, and seems like there are many opinions on where to hook up the power for the electic choke. The stator on the alternator seem to be the easy method even though Edelbrock says not to do it this way. Many have said Ford did this for many, many years with no issues and it is just a covering statement from Edelbrock. Connecting to the alternator sure seems like the easy route. What are the thoughts, and where to grond it, any specific recommendations?

 

I don't know if this will help you at all, but this is what I did when I put an Edelbrock on my big block in place of the Holley.

 

Thanks for all the assistance so far. Anyone have a picture or can tell me how to connect the throttle rod to the carburetor or what part number to purchase and what return spring. I just set the rod in a spot that looked correct. Also, any idea on the kick down linkage/adapter? These are all the parts that came with the carburetor.

 

Latest update: got the fuel line connected, still needing to figure out the throttle rod and kick down linkage interaction. Also need to connect the electric choke. I was able to connect the kick down linkage to the manifold with supplied hardware, a bit of a tight fit with the vacuum connection on the manifold but should work. The bend in the accelerator rod does not make contact with the kick down mechanism at wide open throttle and thus i will need a work around. With the kick down connected to the manifold, it appears to me that it will be easier to find some work around for the accelerator rod rather than the kick down linkage. I wonder how hard it would be to find stock rod, bend it to the right shape, and then have the threads machined on the end that attaches to the accelerator linkage near the firewall? Anyone done this or bought an aftermarket accelerator rod?

 

I have. I've used one that had heim joints and fit into the 'big' hole in the accelerator linkage on the carb. I think it might have been from S Drake and I got it through CJ Pony Parts. It worked well - but a little blue loctite on the ends of the heim joint is recommended. Mine worked it's way loose on a shakedown cruise and I had to drift to the side and reset.

Scott Drake Throttle Rod Billet Mustang V8 1965-1968

Scott Drake Billet Throttle Rod for 1965, 1966, 1967 and 1968 Mustangs with a V8 Engine.

www.cjponyparts.com

 

Can you move the throttle rod to the left side of the accelerator pedal rod? It's on the right side now.

 

I think i might be able to, but the portion of the throttle rod that fits into the carburetor does not have much length.

 

I guess I'm not seeing the problem. Is that short lateral section of the throttle rod not making contact with the kickdown arm?

 

Exactly, that is the issue. The stock linkage accelerator rod does not engage the transmission kick down lever at wide open throttle. The lateral portion of the accelerator rod does not come far enough back when the accelerator rod is fully open so it does not make contact with the kick down mechanism; thus no engagement of the kick down mechanism. I know there might be some adjustment on the accelerator rod near the kick down, but moving the accelerator rod backwards begins to affect the carburetor as if you are applying throttle. Basically, it looks like the rod just needs to be longer with the "Z bend" at the right location.

I am having a conceptual problem thinking if I could just try to straighten the rod then re-bend it so it makes contact with the kick down mechanism, but not sure the rod is long enough. I can't believe Edelbrock has not designed a solution to this or there is not an aftermarket rod with the bend in the right place. If I were a machinist looks like it might be pretty quick. Maybe someone should go into business making this part, but maybe not that many in existence needing the part to make it viable.

 

Here is a photo of the accelerator rod and kick down mechanism at full throttle. You can see the gap we need to close.

 

In responding to your PM. You must be good at search to dig up my past! I bought a universal straight racing throttle cable setup from Summit and added the bends, shortened and rethreaded the normal threaded end, don't cut off the reverse threaded end! I have moved on to a cable throttle t5z and multi port fuel injection so if you want my old linkage send me another PM and you can have it for whatever a USPS flat rate box goes for these days.

 

It looks like there is a threaded adjustment on the end of the transmission kickdown rod that attaches to the bellcrank. If you lengthen that adjuster it will move the vertical portion of the bellcrank closer to the lateral section of the throttle rod.

 

Update: It is all put back together so lets hope it starts. Not happy with the looks of the messy spark plug wire set up, and not happy with the purchase. NKG website and box both state the wires are numbered, nope, not unless I am totally blind. Additionally, all but two of the wires are the same length, maybe that is standard, don't know. I am ready to attempt to start it, but a little apprehensive. If anyone sees anything that looks off, chime in.

 

Oil is most important. The transmission kick down linkage looks familiar.

 

Thank you. Forgive me for forgetting to thank everyone on this forum for assisting, and also special thanks to Nailbender for sending me the accelerator rod, and also special thanks to awhtx for answering my hundreds of questions.

 

Due diligence! Move slow and check your work!

 

Hah, this whole thing has been slow, can't get much slower. I have a neighbor who supposedly built race car motors years ago. He spotted me in my garage while he was walking and volunteered to help when I got ready to start it. That is what I need, someone to diagnose if I cant get it started.

 

Update, it starts, but seems difficult, and seems tight. I put this on another conversation in case everyone was tired of this post. Any thoughts, timing etc?

 

Update, it starts, but seems difficult, and seems tight. I put this on another conversation in case everyone was tired of this post. Any thoughts, timing etc?

Too much initial timing. Rotate the distributor CCW a tad. Keep going until it cranks full speed.

why not the 600? why not a holley or edelbrock if you dont mind me asking?

Why the 500? Because even at a fairly high VE of 90% a bored 289 (294 ci) and a "redline" of 6,500 rpm only 497.66 cfm is required. Less tuning and better throttle response than plopping on a 600. Why the Summit and not a Holley or Edelbrock? Well, I'm not a particular fan of air-valve-secondary carbs for a start and since the Summit carb is almost an exact clone of the Holley 4010, which is no longer produced, I guess you could say it's the closest thing I can get to that carb. Note the Holley 4010 was Holley's attempt to produce a carburetor with a combination of the positive attributes of a Holley 41xx series and an Autolite 4100. Realistically speaking, I'd install an Autolite 4100 because I can re-tune it versus the average Joe who isn't going to go after their carburetor with taps, solder and drill bits....