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SiouxFalls73

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

It seems my no spark issue stems from a dizzy that is not spinning....and the non-spinning dizzy stems from the cam-shaft not turning. Please tell me this might be related to something that dos not require me to tear the engine apart.

the car sounds like it is turning over.......
 
Or the roll pin on the distributor gear
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
I had my son crank the engine as I shined a light down into distributor port and saw that the cam was not rotating. I pulled the water pump and will pull the timing cover next. It's been a while since I tore into the engine...it's starting to come back to me now. I'm just hoping it's the timing chain.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Found my tool and removed the timing cover. the fuel pump eccentric bolt had come loose and eventually the pin from the timing sprocket and the cam had worked loose. questions:

1) how do I go about getting the timing chain on
2) how do I set the initial timing (88 5.0)
3) how can i prevent this from happening again? Lock Tite? Lock Washer?

I really appreciate the help!!!
 
Setting the timing is pretty straightforward - just line up the dots on the gears. Look at the cam gear and the crank gear and you will see a tiny little dot on each. The camshaft dot should be at the 6 o'clock position and the crankshaft dot at 12 o'clock such that they are pointing at each other.

Since your rockers are tightened down, you probably won't be able to turn the cam by hand. You can use the crankshaft to turn the cam by installing the timing chain and then rotate the crank by hand using a breaker bar or large ratchet and a 15/16" socket on the harmonic balancer bolt. Rotate the crankshaft until the cam dot is at 6 o'clock, the remove the timing chain. Now rotate just the crankshaft until the crank dot is at 12 o'clock. Reinstall the timing chain. The way I normally do this is to put the crank gear on the end of the crank snout, but don't push it all the way onto the crankshaft. Loop the timing chain around the crank gear and hold the cam gear inside the chain with the cam gear's dot at 6 o'clock. While holding the cam gear, push the crank gear onto the crankshaft keyway and slip the cam gear onto the camshaft and the dowel pin. Make sure the dots are lined up. If you are off a tooth, pull the chain and gear away from the engine just a bit so that you can shift the cam gear, then reinstall the gear. When the dots are lined up, install the cam gear bolts.

When you reinstall the distributor, you need to ensure that you are near top dead center of cylinder #1 on its compression stroke. This is when both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. The only way that I know of to determine this on an assembled engine is to pull a valve cover. You have a 50/50 shot at being right. If you don't want to pull a valve cover, you could just install the distributor. If the engine won't start and you hear it backfiring through the exhaust as you try to start it, that just means you are 180 out on the distributor. It's a quick fix and much faster than the trouble of pulling a valve cover.

You won't be able to fine tune the timing until you get the engine running. You'll need a timing light to do that once it's up and running.

As far as the cam dowel pin working loose, I don't hear about that happening often. The pin should not be loose in the cam. If it is, you'll need another pin. I believe it is a slight interference fit, so it shouldn't just slide in and out. A little Loctite on the cam side of the pin should not hurt anything, but should not be necessary. If the pin worked its way on by itself, I would replace the pin with a new one. Hopefully it's not due to an enlarged hole in the cam - that would probably require a cam replacement to fix.
 
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When you reinstall the distributor, you need to ensure that you are near top dead center of cylinder #1 on its compression stroke. This is when both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. The only way that I know of to determine this on an assembled engine is to pull a valve cover. You have a 50/50 shot at being right. If you don't want to pull a valve cover, you could just install the distributor. If the engine won't start and you hear it backfiring through the exhaust as you try to start it, that just means you are 180 out on the distributor. It's a quick fix and much faster than the trouble of pulling a valve cover.
Pull #1 plug and put your thumb over the hole, spin the engine by hand with a socket on the balance bolt, when you feel air rushing out look to see where your timing marks are, they should be coming up to TDC. Line up TDC and drop the distributor in with rotor pointing just left of no.1, it probably wont drop in all the way (oil pump shaft has to line up) but the gear will be meshed with the cam gear, simply spin the engine by hand and put downward pressure on the distributor, it will drop in.
 
Pull #1 plug and put your thumb over the hole, spin the engine by hand with a socket on the balance bolt, when you feel air rushing out look to see where your timing marks are, they should be coming up to TDC. Line up TDC and drop the distributor in with rotor pointing just left of no.1, it probably wont drop in all the way (oil pump shaft has to line up) but the gear will be meshed with the cam gear, simply spin the engine by hand and put downward pressure on the distributor, it will drop in.
I knew I forgot the easy method! It was late when I wrote my response. The old finger over the spark plug hole trick works every time! Even used it on my engine to verify I was not 180 out.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Pull #1 plug and put your thumb over the hole, spin the engine by hand with a socket on the balance bolt, when you feel air rushing out look to see where your timing marks are, they should be coming up to TDC. Line up TDC and drop the distributor in with rotor pointing just left of no.1, it probably wont drop in all the way (oil pump shaft has to line up) but the gear will be meshed with the cam gear, simply spin the engine by hand and put downward pressure on the distributor, it will drop in.
When you say "just left of number 1"....do you mean just before number 1 or just after number 1, with regards to setting the rotor?

Thanks to all!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
The rotor rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the top. If the #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke, you want the rotor to be just slightly past (in the counterclockwise direction) the #1 plug wire position since the spark timing is always set to fire however many degrees before top dead center. With the piston at TDC, the spark would have normally fired and the rotor will be just past the #1 plug wire terminal. That will get you in the ball park - you'll need a timing light to fine tune it.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
The rotor rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the top. If the #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke, you want the rotor to be just slightly past (in the counterclockwise direction) the #1 plug wire position since the spark timing is always set to fire however many degrees before top dead center. With the piston at TDC, the spark would have normally fired and the rotor will be just past the #1 plug wire terminal. That will get you in the ball park - you'll need a timing light to fine tune it.
Perfect. Thank you!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Hello everyone. Got everything back together and it fired right up.

Now I have just two issues (that I know of):

1). Brakes are very soft, and the pedal goes to the floor. Master cylinder?

2) I need a way to connect the C4 Kickdown to the FiTech throttle body.

Thanks again!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
1). Brakes are very soft, and the pedal goes to the floor. Master cylinder?
From my experience, a bad master cylinder the brake pedal will go to the floor and a pump or two will firm up the pedal until it sinks again.

If you apply constant brake pressure and the pedal sinks to the floor, either a leak or a bad MC.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
From my experience, a bad master cylinder the brake pedal will go to the floor and a pump or two will firm up the pedal until it sinks again.

If you apply constant brake pressure and the pedal sinks to the floor, either a leak or a bad MC.
Thanks rickl. I've been checking the fluid level and it doesn't seem to be dropping, so I'm going to replace the MC. Any issues going with a rebuild?
 
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