At rest, with the engine not running, there WILL be a bit of play in the control valve. That's how it works by pushing against a spool to move it to direct pressure to the slave cylinder. With the engine running and pressure in the system there will be a minute amount of "play" but still enough to notice with the naked eye.

 

What I’m saying is, when you turn the wheel side to side, there’s too much play before the system starts to move the wheels. If I understood the guy correctly, that play is in the control valve. I was trying to eliminate that as another thing needing replacement before I bring it back to him for the alignment.

 

I'm not looking at my notes but 1/8" is about where I draw the line. I believe the Ford shop manual may be more liberal?
And these would be obviously with the engine running.
I like about 1/16" max. Can be achieved, but you won't do it with a factory stock control valve.

We've covered control valve adjustment a few times on here. Most folks see the need for rebuilding the system in its
entirety and send it to Chokostang.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

I'm not looking at my notes but 1/8" is about where I draw the line. I believe the Ford shop manual may be more liberal?
And these would be obviously with the engine running.
I like about 1/16" max. Can be achieved, but you won't do it with a factory stock control valve.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

I’m getting well over 1/8”. Actually, it’s probably at least 1/2”. Can you tell me how to adjust the control valve, or what you do since you say it can’t be achieved with the stock valve. What valve would you switch to.

 

You do not "adjust" the control valve to decrease slop/movement in the ball stud. Whoever stated that did not have a clue as to function. Slop in this area can only be decreased by TRYING to tighten the travel stop. If it is a far in as it can go, Your are SOL (I'm sure you are already there)
Slop movement can come from the wear in the brass sleeve, seats, ball stud because they wear. Then comes the steering box. I'd say at least 50% of slop comes from the box, probably more.
The corner tire store is usually a not good place to have your classic worked on. Yes, these kids are GREAT, Wonderful with computers, but have limited expertise in our old Mustamgs steering and common use your brain mechanics.

 

This isn’t a young guy. I’d say he’s in his 60’s and was recommended by a guy my son works with at a Ford dealership. He told my son “I can get it close if you want to bring it here but this guy will get right.”

It’s certainly possible I misunderstood what he was telling me. He threw a bunch of stuff at me. I thought he said the play in the wheel was in the control valve and there was some adjustment that can be made if there was enough left in it. He could’ve meant the gear box, not knowing that you just rebuilt it. If it’s not the control valve and obviously not the gear box, what would be giving me the play in the steering wheel?

 

I usually tell folks approx 3/8" movement without engine running. As Woodchuck stated nearly impossible to see that ball stud movement when engine is running.

 

I sure hope the tire store fellow did not adjust the box!!!! Yes that has happened. more than once. They turn the box, feel the high high center drag, feel there is something wrong, back off the adjustment till it turn free all the way through--That just screws up a box.
PS, IF THAT BOX IS NOT RIGHT--It is free to you to set it back up. Shipping on you.

 

He did not adjust anything. He drove the car, then had me turn the wheel back and forth a thousand times with the car running and then again not running. Then told me the things that needed replacement before he could do the alignment. Included in the things he told me was that the slop I’m the wheel was due to, I thought, the control valve. I assumed that he was referring to the valve knowing the gear box was just rebuilt. He may have been talking about the box. I can’t remember if I told him that had been rebuilt.

 

Just talked to Kory on the phone about his issues.
Bottom line he is going to tell the alignment guy/his installer to call me to help in this matter. Yes we'll get this figured out.
Got several questions to help isolate the problems.

 

FWIW, I’m pretty sure this guy knows what he’s doing. It’s likely me that’s got my information screwed up. He actually asked me to text him when I got home cuz he was concerned about how safe the car was to drive as is.

 

Most on the forum including myself send our stuff to CHOCK for rebuild. Prices are reasonable and few if any have more knowledge than Dan does when it comes to early Mustang steering.