Nothing past the collector matters. This isn't F1 and we aren't smart enough. Do what you want. But go 2.5" or stay unserious and waste money on dreams.
Has it ever occurred to anyone that 98% of exhausts on here sound like hot garbage? If you have a Flowmaster on a Vintage Mustang and think it sounds good, we are enemies. You've been warned.
Arvinode is a waste of money. It's not going to make you like your car. Balls will make you like your car.
End of story.
Sorry to sound harsh but we've all been trapped in the "Shelby did it, it was awesome in 1967." Myself included. There's more scientific methods to achieve specific sounds with these cars. This is as good a place as any...
Thought I’d compile a focused post for anyone chasing specific exhaust tones out of a 289-powered '65–'69 Mustang. There's a lot of noise out there—so here’s a high signal breakdown of muffler types, crossovers, and their actual results on a typical street 289 turning 6,000 rpm max (we’re not talking Boss 302 here).
This assumes long-tube headers (Tri-Y or equal-length), 2.25"–2.5" duals. Focus is tone, rasp, volume, and real-world comparisons.
A stockish 289 (say, 9.0:1, mild cam, 600cfm carb, 6k redline) is going to have:
Naturally crisp midtones
Fast revving bark, but thin at low rpm
Lacks big-block bass or lopey thump unless cammed up
MUFFLER CHARACTERISTICS ON A 289
1. Arvinode (factory HiPo dual resonator setup)
Tone: Raspy, metallic, sharp-edged
Volume: Moderate to high under load
Best For: Vintage correctness, raw 60s sports car tone
Real World: Think early GT350, but thinner than you'd expect today. Zero drone. Cold steel clang. Not modern-loud, but noticeable.
Notes: Straight-through design with resonators ahead of mufflers. No crossover. No boom. High-pitched snarl.
2. Glasspacks (Cherry Bombs, Thrush)
Tone: Hollow, barky, sharp, moderate rasp
Volume: High, but tolerable if long enough
Best For: Raw and rowdy retro tone, “I'm not here to make friends”
Real World: Late-60s dirt track. Crackles on decel. Will drone if pipes are too short. Use long ones if you want to tame the ear fatigue.
With H-pipe: Deeper, rounder
With X-pipe: Higher-pitched, more shriek
No crossover: Staccato firecracker bark. Each pulse isolated.
3. Chambered (Flowmaster 40/44/Delta, etc.)
Tone: Boxy, synthetic, mid-heavy thump with some rasp
Volume: Medium to loud, depending on series
Best For: “Muscle car” tone with tight compression of sound
Real World: More Camaro than Mustang. You get that NASCAR-style “crack” at throttle blips but with notable drone.
H-pipe: Adds burble and punch. Good for balance.
X-pipe: Kills the thump, adds rasp. Don’t recommend X with Flowmasters unless you like flat tone.
4. Turbo Mufflers (Walker DynoMax, 2- or 3-chamber)
Tone: Smooth, broad-band, slightly wooly
Volume: Moderate
Best For: Daily driver tone, quiet-ish with authority when opened up
Real World: Think late-70s Ford, early Fox bodies. Old school cruiser. Not aggressive, but won’t disappoint under load.
Crossover effect: Both H and X smooth things further. X makes it sound modern, H keeps the V8 character intact.
5. Bullets (Magnaflow, Dynomax Race, etc.)
Tone: Brutal, high-frequency screamers
Volume: Extremely loud, little to no sound dampening
Best For: Track cars, shock value
Real World: If you want to sound like a CMC car or 90s NASCAR, this is it. But it’ll be intolerable on the street unless you like bleeding ears.
X-pipe only: You must run an X with bullets or it just sounds like angry farm equipment.
X-pipe tone comparison: 90s NASCAR with open header X-pipe howl. Almost two-stroke at high rpm.
6. Spiral Flow (Jones, Aero, etc.)
Tone: Unique—airy, turbine-like whoosh with faint burble
Volume: Quieter than bullets, louder than turbos
Best For: Modern builds that want unique tone and flow
Real World: Mix between turbo and straight-through. No drone. Sounds “fast” at idle. High-rpm has a buzzsaw quality if the cam supports it.
Crossover effect: X makes it sound high-tech, H adds some thump back
CROSSOVER PIPES: SOUND & FUNCTION
No Crossover
Sound: Each bank fires independently = raw, unfiltered
Result: Max separation = staccato pulse. Can sound “broken” on some mufflers. Works great with glasspacks.
Used by: Early Shelby GTs, vintage Trans Am builds
H-pipe
Sound: Deepens tone, smooths pulses, retains muscle character
Result: Bassier tone, less raspy, better low-end torque
Used by: OEM-style duals, drag cars, most American V8s
On 289: Adds a low-mid punch that makes it feel bigger
X-pipe
Sound: High-pitched, exotic, blended pulses
Result: Revvier sound, more modern or “race car” note. Often mistaken for higher rpm than actual.
Used by: NASCAR, modern Mustangs, CMC cars
On 289: Perfect for glasspacks or bullets if chasing 90s NASCAR scream. Avoid with chambered mufflers.
Sound Like a '66 GT350R: Arvinode, no crossover, long tubes. That raw metallic rasp.
Sound Like a Dirt Track Car: Long glasspacks, no crossover, dumped before axle
Sound Like 90s NASCAR: Bullets + X-pipe, as long as your hearing lasts
Sound Like Your Neighbor’s ’78 F100: 2-chamber turbo mufflers + H
Sound Like You Hate Everyone at Cars and Coffee: Flowmaster 40s + no crossover, cammed up, axle dumps.
This isn't anecdotal. It is science. Engines and sounds are things. And we seek to master things.
Enjoy your 4d science experiment! But don't get caught up in feeding the capitalism beast when a local guy can build you the exhaust of your dreams with crap off Amazon and a Tombstone for $300 all in.