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Starter solenoid

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18K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  c6fastback  
#1 ·
I have been reading off and on the past year about the poor quality of replacement starter solenoids available. This thread has some good info: Starter Solenoid

The solenoid on my 65 appears to be an original and is quite dirty:
775439

775440


I either want to replace it with a reproduction with the correct markings or clean it to and keep using it. My current one works great and just looks like hell... Two questions:

1) Has anyone cleaned up their solenoid and brought it back to NOS appearance?

2) What are the experiences with the Alloy Metal Products solenoids from NPD? Reliable enough for a daily driver? I really do not want to carry a million spare parts in my trunk:p

Thanks!
Rob
 
#5 ·
I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t restore a properly functioning original. A little evaporust on the metal parts and nuts, a good cleaning and some paint. It won’t be perfect unless you can figure a way to separate the bracket from the solenoid but it would certainly look better.
 
#8 ·
Thats very true about pawned off NOS!

Recently I was looking for a dist vacuum canister for my 71 and found a couple of sites that did happen to have a NOS part in the original parts box. I could tell it was NOS since the parts were better quality than a repro and the canister worked as expected when put on the car.

A couple other sites just sent repros however, in small print was a disclaimer that said something like, if NOS is not available, then a substitution would be made. So, those parts got returned back.
 
#9 ·
after running the gauntlet with the manurey repops

in about 4 seconds I found nos D2 #s on ebay for $30 each. i bought 2 so im set for life

I hear NAPA Echlin are a solid ones

you can still buy the round ones from ford that are good
 
#10 ·
I have been reading off and on the past year about the poor quality of replacement starter solenoids available. This thread has some good info: Starter Solenoid

The solenoid on my 65 appears to be an original and is quite dirty:
View attachment 775439
View attachment 775440

I either want to replace it with a reproduction with the correct markings or clean it to and keep using it. My current one works great and just looks like hell... Two questions:

1) Has anyone cleaned up their solenoid and brought it back to NOS appearance?

2) What are the experiences with the Alloy Metal Products solenoids from NPD? Reliable enough for a daily driver? I really do not want to carry a million spare parts in my trunk:p

Thanks!
Rob
I have been reading off and on the past year about the poor quality of replacement starter solenoids available. This thread has some good info: Starter Solenoid

The solenoid on my 65 appears to be an original and is quite dirty:
View attachment 775439
View attachment 775440

I either want to replace it with a reproduction with the correct markings or clean it to and keep using it. My current one works great and just looks like hell... Two questions:

1) Has anyone cleaned up their solenoid and brought it back to NOS appearance?

2) What are the experiences with the Alloy Metal Products solenoids from NPD? Reliable enough for a daily driver? I really do not want to carry a million spare parts in my trunk:p

Thanks!
Rob
Personally, if this OEM solenoid is working now I would simply "have at it" with a brass wire wheel. Motocraft replacements are still available, otherwise.
 
#13 ·
So why the heck you would like to change it if it works correctly.? It doesn’t looks to me it’s dirty, but of course you can always remove it and clean. I’m sure the final result will be great and you will continue having the original thing in your car.!


Josep
 
#17 ·
The newer Motorcraft solenoids , sw7663 , were made overseas the last time I looked at the box. Buyer beware.
 
#18 ·
In my ancient lifetime I have seen more failed starter solenoids and needless replacements of batteries and starter motors caused by one single, simple, issue. High resistance in the cranking circuit caused by one or more of the following:
1. Poor connections.
2. Undersized or damaged cables.
3. Excessive cranking/discharged battery.

Remember that, in the cranking system, most of the connections are solidly bolted together except the contactor inside the solenoid and the contact points (non-PMGR), solenoid (PMGR) and brushes inside/on the starter motor. High resistance in the system is going to cause an arc (spark) every time those movable connections come together and, over time, the oxidation at the connection point is going to build up to the point where the part fails. Keep all connection clean and shiny, paying particular attention to grounds (no paint).
 
#23 ·
That's interesting..... did you call them? Shows zero on their website inquiry tool.
 
#22 ·
In this order-
1) Works fine... clean up the original
2) Doesn't work, needs to look correct.... find working original
3) Just need a quality one that works.... get an unused aftermarket relay from back in the day (almost guaranteed to be made in USA and far better quality than overseas today)

From recent research, I believe the current D2 Motorcraft units are all made overseas.
 
#25 ·
I’ve sold several of the China made Motorcraft solenoids and some have come back as defective.