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Summit Carb

5.1K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  chapys4life  
#1 ·
Considering purchasing a Summit Carb, 500cfm for my relatively stock 302 in my 68.
I really want it to look stock at a casual glance.
Not a fan of the junky looking fuel inlets.
Questions I Have:
  1. Will it clear the stock air cleaner assembly? (Believe this style was used 68-70ish).
  2. Will it clear the coil mounted on the intake? I know I can move the coil if needed but I want it where it's supposed to be for this car.
  3. Will it clear the brace for the A/C on the drivers side? I think this style brace was used 67/68 maybe later. Not the same as the 65/66.
I am currently running a big block Autolite 4100. It runs flawlessly but idles high. Rebuilt another 4100, again big block, again same problem.
Tried an Edelbrock and it's too wide for the A/C brace.
Considered finding a small block 4100 but they are pricey for a a potentially worn or messed up 50+ year old carb. Also considered a correct for the car 4300 but I haven't messed with them and hear not so great things, and again 50+ year old carb.
 
#2 ·
I put that carb on my 67 289 and am very happy with it.
It did not clear the air cleaner. I had to make a spacer to lift the air cleaner about 3/16". Basically a very thick gasket on top of the carb.
I cannot speak to the other 2 questions. (my coil is on the front of the engine and I don't have AC)
 
#3 ·
Check this thread out..... unfortunately on another forum. It details the effort a guy with a '69 351 Mustang went through to make it happen. The stock air cleaner
he has is ram air, not the generic Mustang piece. I doubt an intake mounted coil would fly.

 
#4 ·
Summit sells a 1/2" spacer that will lift the stock air cleaner. The air cleaner hits the carb not the manifold so the manifold mounted coil is unaffected.

Lifting the air cleaner 1/2" leaves a small gap between the snorkel and the hot air tube, I could have made it work but it's never really winter here so I removed the tube.

Some use the factory linkage, but I didn't like the geometry so I made my own out of helm joints and threaded rod.

I also used a Summit throttle return kit. Much cleaner than adapting the factory springs.

The biggest challenge for me was the fuel line with PS and AC. I screwed around trying to snake it around the compressor and PS pump/bracket for a couple weeks and ended up going with rubber fuel line.

Allstar Performance ALL25944 Allstar Performance Air Filter Spacers | Summit Racing

Summit Racing SUM-G1327 Summit Racing® Throttle Return Spring Kits | Summit Racing
 

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#6 ·
Awesome input. Thank you all.

I'm pretty set on keeping the heat riser, so I will try the thick gasket.

I did run across that thread while searching. My concern was the fuel filter on the intake. I don't mind running a older style with the filter on the pump. I think that would solve that problem.

The coil is more of an interference with the fuel outlet thing. I can move if it comes down to it. I will custom bend a new line if I can figure out the fittings.

This seems very promising so far.
 
#7 ·
Most people have good luck with the summit carbs and like them but quite a few of us had issues with high idling that were unresolvable. QC seems hit or miss.
 
#8 ·
I just purchased the 600, and one thing that wasn't documented in the instructions were the carburetor inlets. The Q&A on their website said "carburetors include a feed line that is 3/8 NPT inlet from your fuel system. The carburetor has 5/8-18 in. inverted flare fittings"

They must of changed it since this was posted, as all three were 5/8" IF.

I ended up going with a stainless steel braided hose for now, but may do a hard line once I get everything up and running. Definitely will take some bending with the A/C and P/S pump brackets.
 
#10 ·
Just did a 600cfm over the weekend with a 302 in my 68. It runs wayyy better. My carb was shot and needed a rebuild bad.

1. I run a 14" k&n drop base filter with issues. Had a quickfuel 580 with 1" spacer and I barely cleared the hood with the drop base
2. I had to rotate the coil about 10 degrees forward to clear the throttle bracket. I have a weiand stealth
3. No ac here
 
#12 ·
Image

That’s how mine was setup. Redid the fuel line behind the distributor. You can see the throttle is close. I tilted it a little more forward and checked not contact with the coil.

Image

I ran it better but still not 100 happy. Picked up some an fittings and cover for the line but trying to come up with a better routing. Might mine the coil
 
#13 ·
Have you thought about running a mostly stock steel fuel line in front of the dizzy and use a much shorter rubber hose. Your long hose look scary. Get a 65 style fuel pump with the built in filter and you only need one very short length of rubber hose.
 
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#14 ·
I thought about using metal line but I have had issues in the past with heat issues being in texas. I am waiting for the last bit of parts but im converting the fuel pump & carb to 6an fittings at 90 degree to run it the same way but a shorter line. Also adding an earls fuel filter (see below) and heat shield sleeve for the line.