Mine doesn't stick up that high in my kids' '65, but I'm using an MGW shifter so maybe that's different than the Tremec one. The main thing is to have about a three degree angle on the engine/tranny assembly.

 

Depends on the shifter. Most aftermarket shifters will stick up quite far. Stock one's, which I recommend getting rid of, not so much.

As long as the trans or shifter isn't touching chassis, or sheet metal, you should be fine.

 

What is the difference between the tremec crossmember and the t5 crossmember? Is it possible that I might have the wrong crossmember?

 

I dont think the Tremec mount would push the trans up any higher, it looks like it just has a bigger opening as the trmec is wider at the rear of the housing than the T-5.

You can see the two here (although yours may look different)
Crossmembers

 

The shifter sticks pretty far into the cabin when the transmission is installed at the proper 3 degree drivetrain angle like the stock setup. You can see that here:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hertz.../ph/hertzshelby66/detail?.dir=/e91b&.dnm=47bb.jpg&.src=ph&.tok=phIhj_EBrFERXbbS

But you are not going to achieve this drivetrain angle with any commercially available crossmember. The tranny just keeps from hitting the built in crossmember in the tunnel at 5 degrees so the shifter should not sit up this high if you bought the crossmember and did not notch the built in crossmember to achieve the proper drivetrain angle.

 

Wow, nice fit. My Pro5.0 shifter required a little coping of the drivers side hole to get it to fit. It too sticks above the hole a good distance but does not interfer with the boot.

 

The shifter sticks pretty far into the cabin when the transmission is installed at the proper 3 degree drivetrain angle like the stock setup. You can see that here:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hertz.../ph/hertzshelby66/detail?.dir=/e91b&.dnm=47bb.jpg&.src=ph&.tok=phIhj_EBrFERXbbS

But you are not going to achieve this drivetrain angle with any commercially available crossmember. The tranny just keeps from hitting the built in crossmember in the tunnel at 5 degrees so the shifter should not sit up this high if you bought the crossmember and did not notch the built in crossmember to achieve the proper drivetrain angle.

Man that's a great fit. What'd you have to do? I suppose you trimmed the tunnel brace or crossmember or whatever it's called? What crossmember did you use?

I was planning on modifying my '66 crossmember to fit the T5 and get it to fit better than the pre-made ones, but that fit is so nice I might just have to do what you did.

 

The shifter sticks pretty far into the cabin when the transmission is installed at the proper 3 degree drivetrain angle like the stock setup. You can see that here:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/hertz.../ph/hertzshelby66/detail?.dir=/e91b&.dnm=47bb.jpg&.src=ph&.tok=phIhj_EBrFERXbbS

But you are not going to achieve this drivetrain angle with any commercially available crossmember. The tranny just keeps from hitting the built in crossmember in the tunnel at 5 degrees so the shifter should not sit up this high if you bought the crossmember and did not notch the built in crossmember to achieve the proper drivetrain angle.

Man that's a great fit. What'd you have to do? I suppose you trimmed the tunnel brace or crossmember or whatever it's called? What crossmember did you use?

I was planning on modifying my '66 crossmember to fit the T5 and get it to fit better than the pre-made ones, but that fit is so nice I might just have to do what you did.

If you noticed that pic I posted is a series in a photo album that I specifically shot to help teach Tracy (blkfrd) about drivetrain angle and what was needed to get the EXACT fit with a T-5. You can view the whole album from that link and get an idea of what I did.

The built in crossmember that is part of the tranny tunnel needs to be notched as the limiting factor in getting a T-5 up far enough to maintain proper drivetrain angle is the boss for the rail shifter hitting the built in crossmember. I quickly welded in a piece of C-channel I made from two pieces of L-channel to brace the crossmember. I did no trimming because this was a test that has been left for now, although there are no clearance issues as is and could be left if desired. There may be an area on the front right portion of the tranny case that comes into contact with the passenger floorwell but a little massaging with the proper hammer fixes that right away. You can also smooth off that part of the aluminum case as it is not an important part.

From the photos you can see that I modified the stock bolt in crossmember. I simply took a C4 case and stood it up on end on the work bench to take 2 dimension measurements of the motor mount position, did the same with the T-5, and then derived the proper position the modified crossmember needed to locate the tranny mount. Mount is stock C4 for 66. You can see that the new location for mounting on the crossmember is back and down. I cannot give direct measurements for you as I have a jig I built to modify stock motor mounts to locate the engine 1/2" further back (gains fan clearance with serpentine belt systems and helps weight distribution) and that affects the crossmember as well, both in how far back and how far down. My goal was to maintain 3 degrees of drivetrain angle as was stock.

The hole in the floor was enlarged to get to the proper clearance, a stiffening border was made of 1/8" plate, and then it was drilled and tapped to accept the machine screws to attach the custom frame and rubber weather boot I made (not pictured). It was welded on from underneath in rosette fashion after bodyworking the metal for a perfect fit and sealed with nothing but primer sinc the fit was good. Seam sealer would still be a good idea.

If I can be of any further assisstance feel free to contact me in any manner that suit your need that I have indicated in my profile. Instant messages are best as we can interact in real time.