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doug piston

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I was able to snag a T5 out of an 88 4cyl mustang for 200 bucks. Couldn't pass on the price. Need to know if I need to changes to it's gears or the gears in my 66's rear diff.

Also would love to know other pieces that are needed to swap from my c4. I found this site Modern Driveline - Catalog search ... T5_kit.htm where I can piece together a kit but out the door is over 1000$ which I am ok with but curious on other ideas.

Thanks,
Adam
 
That is a great swap. The gear ratios should be fine. FYI, the gears are exactly the same in the 4cyl T5 and the V8 T5. The difference lies in the input shaft and it's attached gear. That changes all the ratios. I assume you have no bellhousing?How do you want to handle the clutch?cable? mechanical?
 
Sounds like you'll need to replace a lot: bell housing, clutch, pressure plate, etc. call and talk to someone from MD. Hopefully Bruce is who you get to talk to. He pieced my t5z kit part by part so he'll definitely help you out. Definitely need to add a pedal too.
 
I have a non-world-class behind my 200-6 in my '65. Very good setup.

What rear end gear do you have now? I have an 8" with 3.25 in mine.

Modern Driveline are quality people with quality well engineered parts. They will talk you through all the parts you will need.

My car was already a 3-speed so I used the z-bar clutch already in it. But, we have put both hydraulic and cable clutch linkages in early Mustangs. Both work well.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
That is a great swap. The gear ratios should be fine. FYI, the gears are exactly the same in the 4cyl T5 and the V8 T5. The difference lies in the input shaft and it's attached gear. That changes all the ratios. I assume you have no bellhousing?How do you want to handle the clutch?cable? mechanical?
Correct on the no bell housing but thought I read somewhere a 3 speed will do just fine. Also I read the cable setup was much nicer. That said I am going into this knowing nothing so I am completely open to suggestions and ideas.
 
Well, you'll need the following...

a. 6-cylinder, 9 inch, 136-tooth flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and starter.
b. Pilot bearing to fit 200 crank & T-5 input shaft. I believe the ID is .669 inch.
c. C7ZA-6394-A Bellhousing, or equivalent, cast aluminum, 2 Bolt starter, 3.03, late T-10 & Toploader trans (AKA Ford wide pattern).
d. T-5 adapter plate.
e. T-5 transmission crossmember and mount.
f. T-5 driveshaft yoke and, potentially, conversion U-joint. Not sure on the length but I think it might be okay.
g. Speedometer cable.
h. T-5 backup light switch (if not in trans) and harness.
i. Neutral Safety Switch bypass loop.
j. Clutch Pedal assembly with cable quadrant or hydraulic master/slave kit.
k. Rubber cap for transmission modulator vacuum port.
l. Re-adjustment of ignition timing and curb idle speed.

Almost guaranteed that your rear axle ratio is tall enough that you'd never, ever, be able to shift into 5th without lugging the engine. Good luck finding ANY source for 7 1/4 inch ring and pinions. Your best bet would be to swap in a V8 8 inch housing and a 3.55-3.73:1 rear gear set. You'll either need to convert the fronts to 5-lug to match or buy some custom 4-lug axles.

It can be done, but it's not the easiest swap.
 
Agree with everything you've already been told- except for the "mandatory" immediate swap to an 8" rear.

Yes, if/when your 7.25" rear goes kaput the easiest remedy will be to swap to an 8". However, you will be just fine in 5th gear with your current axle- even if you currently have a 2.80 final gear (I had that set-up in mine for a short while, 70-80mph was just lovely). That said, I'm currently running an 8" with a 3.55 and am exceptionally happy.

Really, other than the first couple seconds off the line, the inline 6 mated to a T-5 is a better running set-up than a stock 289 hooked up to ANY of the available stock transmissions (IMO, having daily driven both).
 
Having done this exact conversion, though it was on a 67', you should NOT need a T5 yoke, my C4 yoke worked just fine, you may however need a shorter driveshaft! Also, if you need a flywheel, I have one sitting here I was about to put up in the classified section, pm me if you are needing one
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I have a non-world-class behind my 200-6 in my '65. Very good setup.

What rear end gear do you have now? I have an 8" with 3.25 in mine.

Modern Driveline are quality people with quality well engineered parts. They will talk you through all the parts you will need.

My car was already a 3-speed so I used the z-bar clutch already in it. But, we have put both hydraulic and cable clutch linkages in early Mustangs. Both work well.
VIN tag read a 3 so I assuming the final drive is a 3:20
 
I did the exact same swap well before I went turbo and it was the BEST thing I did to the car. I didnt swap the rear end until a couple years ago and that was after a couple years of turbocharged abuse. You wont use 5th much except at higher highway speeds but no big deal. Do the swap, enjoy it then down the road swap the rear out if it bothers you (my bet is it wont).

Matt
 
Your 3:20 axle will be just fine with that trans. Make sure you keep it full of dexron.
 
With a 65 200, you'll need the smaller 64-65 bellhousing, and the recessed style flywheel. Both are findable. You can use either stock clutch or cable conversion.

Don't waste your time on rear axle conversion. Unless you beat the crap out of it, your 7" diff should be OK.
 
Correct on the no bell housing but thought I read somewhere a 3 speed will do just fine. Also I read the cable setup was much nicer. That said I am going into this knowing nothing so I am completely open to suggestions and ideas.
You can do this., Buy a '67 up 6 cylinder bellhousing. It has the toploader bolt pattern. Then you can buy an adapter to work with that bellhousing. That gives you the ability to source all stock Mustang clutch pieces and not run a cable clutch.
 
That is a great swap. The gear ratios should be fine. FYI, the gears are exactly the same in the 4cyl T5 and the V8 T5. The difference lies in the input shaft and it's attached gear. That changes all the ratios. I assume you have no bellhousing?How do you want to handle the clutch?cable? mechanical?
right for the most part, wrong on the gears being the same. the four cylinder T5 has a 4:1(approximately) first gear ratio, where as the V8 T5 has either a 2.95 or 3.35 first gear ratio.

as for the bell housing, there are kits to use either the earlier 2.77 bell housing, or the later 3.03 bell housing, just note which one you buy, and then buy the proper kit along with the proper flywheel for the bell housing. this of course assumes that you have the dual pattern block, most 66 and up blocks are dual pattern.

here are a couple of threads you can peruse that have good information on the T5 swap and some good clutch information, especially for the smaller 8 1/2" clutch used on the 2.77 trans. i hope you can read them, some have had issues others havent, let me know;

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE - View topic - Small Six 215mm Clutch and Presure Plate info

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE - View topic - T-5 Conversion Swap for a 200 1966 Block with a 1967 Bell
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
right for the most part, wrong on the gears being the same. the four cylinder T5 has a 4:1(approximately) first gear ratio, where as the V8 T5 has either a 2.95 or 3.35 first gear ratio.

as for the bell housing, there are kits to use either the earlier 2.77 bell housing, or the later 3.03 bell housing, just note which one you buy, and then buy the proper kit along with the proper flywheel for the bell housing. this of course assumes that you have the dual pattern block, most 66 and up blocks are dual pattern.

here are a couple of threads you can peruse that have good information on the T5 swap and some good clutch information, especially for the smaller 8 1/2" clutch used on the 2.77 trans. i hope you can read them, some have had issues others havent, let me know;

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE - View topic - Small Six 215mm Clutch and Presure Plate info

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE - View topic - T-5 Conversion Swap for a 200 1966 Block with a 1967 Bell

Thanks for the great links.
 
Could you elaborate on that?
I'd assume Bart says that because you don't want to bog out when you shift gears. When you have an auto, everything should be ok when you shift to drive. But shifting gears, you're not in gear when you press the clutch pedal down, thus redoing timing will keep your car engine running. My guess.
 
I was able to locate a 67 I6 with a 3spd toploader in it, I know I can use the bell housing and fork but what about the flywheel? Could I snag that and have it turned as well?

Thanks
If your engine is the 66-up style with the dual bellhousing pattern on the block, it will work perfectly. The manual bell, flywheel, and clutch plate were the same 66-70. You'll need the 67-70 disc, with the larger spline pattern, of course.
 
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