[Restomod66]

got to drive the 66 with the new tractech locker yesturday . im very impressed, you can hardly feel engagement/disengagement whatsoever in straight line acceleration or deceleration. the only time i can feel it lock up is when coming out of a turn and getting on the throttle hard. i really like the positive feel of it when it locks up, the car REALLY pulls hard now instead of going into an endless one tire fryer. i took my gf for a ride and just about broke her neck coming out of a slow turn and going full throttle in first bc it locked up and we just took off lol. * i ended up having to buy her dinner to make up for it haha*

overall im impressed with it, and i dont think its difficult to drive or find it hard to handle on the street. not to mention,i dont have to worry about wearing out clutches or the such.

it did however present my car with a new problem. HORRENDOUS wheel hop. at full or close to full throttle when the tires want to spin this thing bounces around like im driving off road on huge rocks. so im going to have to address that problem very soon i think .

who makes some good traction bars that work well for wheel hop? g bc i actually have those cheapie lakewood slapper bars but they arent working for a damn now that it spins both tires and accels much harder than before.ground clearance is actually an issue here as well bc i lowered the rear of the car a few inches, and it sits very low. so low that i scrape the lakewoods on speed bumps actually. so i need to find something that provides more ground clearance and works ..

the locker ppl were right, its THE WAY TO GO!

 

[johnpro]

you can hardly feel engagement/disengagement whatsoever in straight line acceleration or deceleration

There should be no "engagement/disengagement" in straight lines ... it should be locked at all times, except during cornering. The only time you'll feel even a clutch type locker (like a Traction-lok) is in cornering. On my traction-lok, really the only time I really feel it is cornering slowly on wet roads, as the one tire starts to require about the same amount of torque for a skid as it does to slip the clutches ... then you get a bit of chatter.

Driving a locking rear, to me, is no different than a non-locking one on dry roads. The real difference is on wet roads. I have to be very careful how I come out of a corner, then.

 

[Stroked66]

Welcome to the locker crowd :highfive:

Shelby style underride traction bars will help with the wheel hop and are about as low profile as you will find, but they won't eliminate wheel hop completely.

The best traction bars you can get are either Cal-Trac's or Slide-A-Link's because they allow you to set pre-load and don't bind the suspension like the underrides do due to thier use of the same forward mounting point as your leaf springs.

 

[jchilds]

I had a huge wheel hop problem at one point with my '69, I bought a set of the Maier Racing leaf springs and the problem is completely gone--no need for traction bars. Check these out before you decide to go to traction bars.

 

[Nedcrane]

Slide-a-links are probably your best option,I'm cutting 1.66 sixty foot times on drag radials and it doesn't require stiff springs...In fact they actually work better with softer springs.The adjustment is easy enough for anyone to understand and can be adjusted with no preload for street driving...

 

[68RCodeConv]

I second the "new leaf spring" suggestion. Wheel hop comes from the rear springs twisting and releasing. Stiffer rear springs will cure the problem. If you want to save some money over the Maier springs, get a set of 5-leaf springs from American Pony. I've had them on a Boss 351, my Shelby and my 73 vert and have never experienced any wheel hop with them.