I've had good success with Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze or #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish when the Swirl Remover isn't effective. #83 is a little more abrasive than #80 but doesn't scratch the clear coat. Also check the Meguiars web site as they have good information on their forum.

 

I'm far from an expert but I had a similar problem. The chap at the local auto paint store recommended 3M Finishing Material Machine Polish. I believe it is called Finesse-It. Kind of pricey but it worked wonders. E.

 

Yep. My dad (original purchaser of the car) got me an early Christmas present of the "Mustang - America's Favourite Fun Car" cover that NPD sells. I've used it religiously to AVOID scratches.
So ... best laid plans, I guess.

 

I've got these on the top of each front fender - wish I knew HOW they got there, but not necessarily WHO did it

Do you use a fender cover when working under the hood?

 

Thanks for all the info. I'll get some Meg's Swirl Remover and try that, if that doesn't do it I'll try the ScratchX.
I've got these on the top of each front fender - wish I knew HOW they got there, but not necessarily WHO did it (I might have to take the Fifth to avoid doing something drastic to myself....)
Thanks again - if all else fails I'll get a pro in to do it.

 

This might sound a little tacky but it works...you might try the tinted Turtle Wax product. I didnt believe it would work but on of my son's friends has the same issue and on a blue car. Yeah, it just covers the problem area but it looks pretty good and since sand paper is not involved it might be a good place to start.

 

Wow, I just went through that issue. My advice is try the scratch-X first. It's mildly abrasive and there will be little chance of you cutting through to the basecoat. Also stated earlier, if you can feel it catching your fingernail, it will require an aggrssive compound and/or wet sanding.

In my opinion, if it requires more than a mild abrasive you should consider taking to a detailer that specializes in removing scratches. The reason I say that, if you mess it up, you'll end up having to pay to get the panel re-cleared or worse, if a pro messes it up he has to fix it.

I ended up with a badly scratched clearcoat (thanks to a @#%$!d-up body shop) eventually had to get the car re-cleared, no shop wanted to risk cutting down into the base trying to sand the scratches out... i'm not trying to discourage you, just my experience.

 

Get yourself a bottle of Macquires Stage 3 (polishing compound) (brownish tan, comes in a 16ox squeezable bottle). Use a dense foam buffing pad (they are usually black). Try to buff out the scratches. Use very little of the buffing compound. If that doesn't work, then I would only let a very experienced person try to take the scratches out. Its pretty easy to destroy a perfectly good paintjob with a buffer.

 

Like I said, it all depends on how deep the scratches are. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it will require sandpaper. There's nothing wrong with being cautious, though, because if you break through the clear, you've got big trouble.

 

Start with wax, if that does not work, go to the next level of a polish. If that does not work, go to the next level. I would not start with 1500 paper first. Try something finer and only go to the sandpaper if you can't get it out otherwise. Like they've said, you're removing paint. You want to remove the minimum paint possible to remove the scratch. I've been happy with McGuires Swirl remover for removing fine scratches.
Dave

 

second the scratchx suggestion

 

Try the Scratch X first, it is much milder but has often taken out small problems for me.

 

Thanks - it's been already buffed and polished, but I'll try (gently) the watersanding with 1500 and then 2000 followed by the buffing and polishing.
Appreciate the help -- I can't get at it for a few weeks, but I'll let you know how it goes .

 

Was your clearcoat buffed and polished, or was it left with a little orange peel? If it has never been compounded, you should have plenty of clearcoat left to remove the scratch. Even if it has been buffed, you should be able to remove them if they aren't too deep.

Get some 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Wet sand the scratch with 1500 until it's gone. If the area is flat, use a paint stick as a sanding block. This will leave the clearcoat a little dull where you sanded. Wet sand that dull area with the 2000, then use some buffing compound to hand buff the area, then a polishing compound to polish it.

You could use a buffer, but for a small area, I would just hand rub it.

 

unfortunately like you said, something was probably on the chamios when drying, and the reality of it is that it doesnt take much to make those hairline Hazey scratches.

ive found waxing only slightly helps.

next step would be a scratch remover, but with wax, the same scratch alwasy seems to reappear by the time the next wash comes along.

they sell very fine hand polishing compounds for clearcoats. ive had great results with it. but u have to use sparingly because in essance your removing some of the clearcoat to get past the scratch.