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Tires to support 500hp engine...

5.2K views 50 replies 15 participants last post by  bolteon  
#1 ·
Hey again all,


This place is proving itself over and over as an incredible resource.

This time the question is about tires— specifically the right choice to support a 500hp 347 stroker.

From what I've ready, a 15x9 rim with 265's on it should fit inside the wheel cavity on my '67 Fastback as long as we use a rim with an appropriate 5.5 backspace; but this leaves the remaining question: what tire goes on the rim?

Open to suggestions, looking for something more traditional (read: larger walls) as far as the tire with good grip, but no need to go bananas as this isn't going to the drag strip or autocross (often).


Thank you again in advance, I'm buying everyone a round at the end of this process.
 
#11 · (Edited)
People seems often to have the impression MT only makes race tires, but the SRs have nothing to do with racing, it's a true street tire. Don't have an level of experience, so I can tell if they are better or worse than something else available. But there's not really that much to select from when wanting something in classic "street racer" sizes, that not either "all look, zero traction", or some kind of race rubber compound with thread.

Here's a car with SR tires, they are available in much larger sizes than this. 😁
Image

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#15 ·
Keep in-mind that while specific tires are important to traction, traction is more dependent on chassis mods and tuning, along with launch technique. Also consider that if you get that traction, the tires are no longer your "circuit breaker" to prevent parts breakage unless upgraded. TL;DR - IMO, build it for high-traction track use on slicks, and it will bite better and last on the street with some chassis re-tuning.
 
#16 ·
So the plan currently is to go with a Ridetech airbag system (it's one of the requirements for what the purpose of this car is); which means a bolt in four link.

Suggestions on further bullet-proofing for the 500hp it'll be pushing? TKX can handle the power, and the drive shaft will be CF. Planning on a scatter shield around the clutch, but that's more for safety. Likely going to go with subframe interconnects; in addition to the cage that's going in.
 
#18 ·
I'm assuming we are only talking about going straight?
 
#20 ·
I don't know much about Ridetech, but thought they were big in the Optima Challenge stuff? Anyway, as you have already figured out it out it's easier to make a track/autocross suspension do well on a dragstrip then it is to make a dragstrip suspension handle on a track/autocross course. If you're serious you will be doing the mini tubs at a minimum.
 
#26 ·
Just do mini tubs like MTF and you can get 18×10 wheels and run 295 / 35 / r18 or so. Much more tire.
 
#32 · (Edited)
For good traction & Handling tire, any performance brand tire with 300-340 tread wear I recommend. Most modern sports/muscle 500hp+ cars run these type of tires. If your driving in any wet type of weather any 400-600 all season performance tire would be okay.

I run Falken Azenis TR615K+ which has 200 Tread wear (autocross tire). They make them in multiple sizes. great tire overall for autocross\RR and/or some daily use (not recommended for wet environments) at least for me its a little stiff when going over some rough roads as I'm running on 18's so my side wall is not that much, but since you are on 15"s I don't think you will feel any of that since you have a lot of side wall to absorb the road more but you'll have plenty of traction.

https://www.falkentire.com/azenis/rt615k or use TireRack.com

Also youtube has great reviews on some brand tires in regards to dry and wet conditions


 
#33 ·
Bolt, well lots of tires will have problems. If you do some massage work on the lower inside front corners of the wheelwells, you can gain over an inch of width. But I would also carefully look at the leaf springs, the shocks, and get some CalTracks or SlideALinks. LSG
 
#34 ·
Okay, summary time...


Researching what used to be on my '65 Fastback (Toyo Proxes TR1's), and recognizing that those were pretty narrow (225's all around)... I've narrowed down my selection to either M/T, BFGoodrich, or Cooper (I'm in the USA, and need DOT street tires):

M/T Sportsman S/R
Rear (305): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-6641
Front (215): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-6650
$1,454 (set)

M/T ET Street S/S
Rear (295): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3455
Front (235): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3450
$1,138 (set)

BFGoodrich
Rear (295): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bfg-12707
Front (225): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bfg-10971
$860 (set)

Cooper Cobra G/T
Rear (295): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/coo-39602
Front (225): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/coo-39636
$706 (set)

So I'm scratching my head— why are the Sportsman tires 20% more expensive than the ET Street S/S tires; and are the Sportsman tires really 2x the value of the Coopers?

Anyone have experience with the Coopers? I'm sure the lower volume of M/T messes with the value of the tire vs everything else that's higher volume usage...


//edit

From what I'm reading, Cooper makes the M/T Sportsman S/T tires— at a decently cheaper price as the Cobras... interesting.
 
#36 ·
The Cooper 275's are T rated and will fit better. They have pretty good all around traction. They look pretty good.
You can get a good hook with them with a clutch. Most important, you can drive in the rain with them. The semi slick tires do not work on loose or wet surfaces.
The MT S/T line is very similar.

For MAX traction on no prep dry pavement Hoosiers work pretty good.

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#37 ·
So you building an car with a 500hp stroker and full roll cage .. and are considering putting some S rated all-season tires on it?
Yes, because this will be taking on the roll of my daily driver in San Francisco, and it's not always sunny up here.

The Cooper 275's are T rated and will fit better. They have pretty good all around traction. They look pretty good.
You can get a good hook with them with a clutch. Most important, you can drive in the rain with them. The semi slick tires do not work on loose or wet surfaces.
The MT S/T line is very similar.

For MAX traction on no prep dry pavement Hoosiers work pretty good.

View attachment 909492
Sweet baby jebus— the Hoosiers just look amazing. Noted on the 275's, but I going to make sure the 295's aren't a problem before pulling trigger on the associated rim and backspace combo.

Which Hoosiers are those in particular, what rim size, and did you tub? Do they require any additional considerations in care/mounting/etc? I have no issue with ordering a second set of rims and having "fun time" wheels.

Thank you in advance.
 
#47 ·
Which Hoosiers are those in particular, what rim size, and did you tub? Do they require any additional considerations in care/mounting/etc? I have no issue with ordering a second set of rims and having "fun time" wheels.

Thank you in advance.
[/QUOTE]
They are 15X9X28 on Pro Stars 15X8. No tub. When I'm towing the trailer I use Micky's.

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#38 ·
For a DD in the bay area you need something other than slicks. Likely some Continental all season something to deal with water. You'll soon meet a bridge abutment or guard rail or worse with the wrong tires.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Initial mockup for rear end, to clarify backspacing and tire/wheel fit...

Image


//edit

Should be at the gym, but wanted to get this out...

If we take into account the bump stop mount; there's room for 275mm of tire. If the brakcet isn't there, there's room for a 305 tire.

What happens to that bracket when people mini tub?

Image
 
#41 ·
When you tub it the first thing you do is remove that. If you buy Street or Track Bilstein's you have the option to get the bump stop installed in the shock
 
#42 ·