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undercoating

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2.2K views 5 replies 6 participants last post by  slim  
#1 ·
I know this topic has been talked to death but everything I came across thru searches on the site is old news - what was true in 2002 is not necessarily true now. So please forgive me for bringing up this topic yet again....

I am doing a complete restoration (on my own) of a '67 289V4 coupe in Lime Gold Metal. The undercarriage is the next stage (I will sandblast), and I want my undercoating ready to go for application as soon as I have clean metal and I complete the bit of welding I need to do. I am not planning on building my car Concourse level, but do not want to slit my own throat if I change my mind down the road and want to start looking at points. Essentially I want this car to be back to new car reliability (yes, I know that means a lot of new parts and such) and to look like new as well. The car will be a summer only car, and probably not too much rain driving either.

I have read about POR-15 and Chassis Saver, they seem to be the two most popular treatments; but for every positive thread there is a corresponding negative thread. When I was looking last summer on this topic, it seemed that POR-15 was the way to go but now I see peeling issues- so much for researching ahead of time. What I am looking for is something to protect and stop the rust (sandblasting can not get rid of 100% of the rust), and have good strength against stone chipping and such.

I know that this is the best forum for advice on old Mustangs, bar none. I know that my answer will come from you, and in advance I thank all of you.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Por15 as the name implies, is really for Painting Over Rust. Its best used on a rough, porous surface not really meant for properly prepped metal and, in my experience, can lift on smoother surfaces. My personal coating of choice is a good epoxy primer once all the proper cleaning and prep is done. My favorite is SPI epoxy but it's just a personal preference. There are many good manufacturers out there. Do a search for 'epoxy' on the forum and you should have enough info to read for days. It's really an awesome primer/coating that gets used at the professional level.
 
#4 ·
Riley is spot-on! I stripped my Mustang down to bare metal, cleaned it with SPI wax & grease remover, then shot it with two coats of SPI epoxy primer. You don't even have to top coat that stuff, but I covered it with two coats of Eastwood chassis black. My Mustang is a '70 from Dearborn it came from the factory with black on the bottom. (I found some pretty large sections of the original paint.)

I've heard the Kirker epoxy from Eastwood is also good stuff, but I've never used it. Of course, the PPG epoxy is great. It's also priced pretty high. What's especially nice about SPI products is you can call or email SPI with technical questions and they're very good about helping you out.
 
#5 ·
+1 on the SPI Epoxy Sealer
Wurth makes a great product and used with a low pressure gun can replicate the seam seals and sound deadener inside trunk quarters and rear wheel wells etc.
As far as the bottom some dealers under coated prior to sale but not the factory with exception of some sound deadener in the tunnel
 
#6 ·
Keep in mind you can show your car even if there are things not as from factory. IMO it's a little odd how concours people worry about the underside looking just like factory, overspray not masked.

Then the do a base coat clear coat mirror finish paint job no where near (far exceeding) what the car came with.

Yes feel free to flame me. The mirror finish supposedly has no advantage.