Based on what you have stated and your driving style and future plans, i would say cut'm loose, save the weight. Don't put any more money to them. Maybe, post them for sale here? Let the new owner re-bush.

 

Another point is that the current traction bar bushes are noisy poly ones……”

…..if these are the TractionMaster brand and have noisy bushings they could be just dry and would benefit from some silicone grease on the inside. Regular grease is not recommended. Or they might just be worn out.

in any case, it would only take you 10 minutes to remove just the tube section, (leaving the axle connection in place for the time being) and test drive for a couple of weeks.

The results of an actual driving test consisting of several sessions would be more instructive than our opinions.

Z

PS: the TractionMaster’s come with the poly bushings. In good condition they are silent. I never heard an underrider sound from any of the Shelbys and K codes I owned that had the underriders installed.

If you decide the poly bushings are worn, and are inclined to keep and use them, I couldn’t recommend a rubber bushing replacement. The T/M underrider bars are more effective with the hard(er) poly bushing vs a rubber bushing.

The replacement poly bushings sold by the TractionMaster may be a more precise fit than generic poly bushings. $26 for a set of 8 bushings might be better buy than cheaper generic bushings. IDK.

Traction Master Company

Z

 

Thanks for the input @zray and @kenash.

I believe what I have is a Scott Drake copy of the Shelby underrides. There are a bunch of washers on one side of the bar to space it off the frame mount so that it lines up with the spring mount at the other end. Pic below. I replaced the bushings with poly from Cobranda because the original rubber ones looked split and pinched.

At some point someone decided to weld the bolt to the forward mount so you cannot remove the bar without taking the entire thing off. I will say that a couple of weeks ago, the nut came loose and fell off the left side while going down the road (along with half of the poly bush). I got out and discovered the bar was still locked in place as the bolt was welded captive to the frame mount as described above. I then went on a 150 mile drive the following day and cannot say I noticed anything different! I have since got some nylocks.

I can try re-greasing them as that’s simple. The fact I used them without a nut on one side for that drive just got me wondering whether they need to be there or not given today’s bushing (Del-A-Lum) and spring technology which didn’t exist in the 60s when Shelby saw a need for them.

 

Thanks for the input @zray and @kenash.

. I replaced the bushings with poly from Cobranda because the original rubber ones looked split and pinched…..”

It’s a shame the Scott Drake knock-offs didn’t use the poly bushings to begin with. Is it worth it to save a small amount of money by going with the cheaper rubber bushings which degrade the performance with just a little wear ?

it wouldn’t surprise me to find out the original TraactionMaster bars are less expensive than the Scott Drake knock offs.

See !

$152:

https://autosalesinc.pxf.io/c/40473...96090/35994?subid=autolinker&u=https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-tm-1069-p

$119:

http://www.tractionmaster.com/app.html

Z

 

The front mount is always attached by welding to the frame rail, that’s normal.

Z

 

Ok. The through bolt is also welded to the mount as well. I wasn’t sure if this was the way it should be or if someone decided to do that to prevent it falling out.

 

My limited understanding is that the reverse eye and del-a-lum bushings should more than manage spring wrap up in a 320 hp Mustang

I doubt that. If you spin tires and stay on the throttle long enough to get traction I think you will have wheel hop.

 

Whose reverse eye springs? Some of them are better than others.
The traction “masters” are mainly utilized as a straight line traction device. They really aren’t the hot ticket for handling. Those items and the Detroit locker really make Mustangs a handful to drive fast around turns. I spent 10+ years on various road courses going around Shelbys where their driving style was using 60-100 more hp to blast by me on the straights and then mash the brakes in the corners. They quickly found out that my high average speed beats that methodology every time.

But back to your question-
Correct spring rate in the back, you’ve already got the bushing/shackle kit done and the correct ratio rear shocks. Rear end is done.
Then I fix the front end, particularly if it still has the pathetic stock upper control arms. I remove those, walk over to the trash barrel and drop them in….. and then bolt on tubular arms….. etc.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

Then I fix the front end, particularly if it still has the pathetic stock upper control arms. I remove those, walk over to the trash barrel and drop them in….. and then bolt on tubular arms….. etc.

What advantages do the tubular arms have over the factory upper control arms? I see a lot of people running tubular arms, but I'm always skeptical of blingy parts.

Thanks.

 

I consider tube arms a quality part, not bling, at least mine anyway.
-They are stiffer than stamped steel arms.
-They are adjustable for camber and caster.
-The moving parts are easily replaced.
-Screw in ball joints are available in an adjustable model.
- They look cool. Oh wait, that is bling. 😁

 

There’s nothing good about the factory upper arms and even the price is stupid on them now.
Tubular arms generally address the pivot shaft interface of the factory arms…… which was steel-on-steel and prone to noise-issues. They either squeaked from day one w. no relief possible OR they started to squeak later….. w. no relief possible.
Tubular arms generally address the camber curve deficiencies of the factory arms because they are usually shorter in overall length. They also have the ball joint angles corrected and sometimes also address the positive caster deficiencies we now see due to radial tires.
Lastly there is the strength issue- most of the tubular arms are way stronger than the factory units.
The advantage of the factory upper arms…. Is they’re factory.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

I doubt that. If you spin tires and stay on the throttle long enough to get traction I think you will have wheel hop.

I guess I am not driving the car hard enough. I haven’t even spun the wheels, yet!

Whose reverse eye springs? Some of them are better than others.
The traction “masters” are mainly utilized as a straight line traction device. They really aren’t the hot ticket for handling. Those items and the Detroit locker really make Mustangs a handful to drive fast around turns. I spent 10+ years on various road courses going around Shelbys where their driving style was using 60-100 more hp to blast by me on the straights and then mash the brakes in the corners. They quickly found out that my high average speed beats that methodology every time.

But back to your question-
Correct spring rate in the back, you’ve already got the bushing/shackle kit done and the correct ratio rear shocks. Rear end is done.
Then I fix the front end, particularly if it still has the pathetic stock upper control arms. I remove those, walk over to the trash barrel and drop them in….. and then bolt on tubular arms….. etc.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

Would you mind elaborating on what it is about the traction bars that makes them less desirable for handling on a road course? I come from a Porsche race car backround and have an interest in understanding the nitty gritty of what makes a car go round a road course. My car has a Detroit Locker also. I’m guessing that makes the cars prone to entry understeer resulting in a scrambling mess on the exit of the corner?

I will be sticking with the factory upper arms. I know they’re compromised and realise there are superior options out there. I have other cars that are more modern and more capable, so I’m looking for a contrasting experience with my Mustang. To me, that involves keeping as much of original 60s architecture as possible, warts and all.

 

My car has a Detroit Locker also. I’m guessing that makes the cars prone to entry understeer resulting in a scrambling mess on the exit of the corner?

All Vintage Mustangs push at the limit. All of them…… Has a lot to do with the factory front end geometry, which sucks big time and the massive amount of weight, disproportionately on the front end. Lots of mods tend to make things worse- a Detroit locker is an example of one such item that definitely doesn’t help a car that understeers. (Corner entry or exit)
So, unless you’re going to move the engine back about 8 inches and fix the front suspension geometry, it is what it is.

Personally I subscribe to the saying that your race car should be easier to drive than your street car but the stock Mustang is so bad that I’ll make an exception. The nostalgia of the pure stocker isn’t really much fun after the first 20 minutes or so.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

I’ve covered the traction master stuff before on the VMF….. numerous times.
The slapper bar type traction bar is bad enough for locking up the front spring segment but the traction master concept also adds an extra pick-up point by fastening the front solidly to the chassis.

Here’s something I posted awhile back when someone broke a traction master…..

“This won't get much "traction" here...... but it's the design of those Traction Master things. You can do all the gusseting/reinforcing
you want and you can't change physics. The forward spring segment is being locked up because you have a specific
length dimension determined by the spring and another length dimension determined by the traction device..... those
lengths aren't the same, particularly when you start twisting the axle housing.
If you could just slap $100 worth of stuff on and it worked right and didn't cause issues, Calvert wouldn't have that fancy front gizmo on his setup....”

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

So if you decide to keep your original upper control arms, I would recommend at least getting those blueprinted. Open tracker does a great set called cheaters. Also, I’m a big fan of roller lower control arms with the strut rods upgraded as well.

 

I’ve covered the traction master stuff before on the VMF….. numerous times.
The slapper bar type traction bar is bad enough for locking up the front spring segment but the traction master concept also adds an extra pick-up point by fastening the front solidly to the chassis.

Here’s something I posted awhile back when someone broke a traction master…..

“This won't get much "traction" here...... but it's the design of those Traction Master things. You can do all the gusseting/reinforcing
you want and you can't change physics. The forward spring segment is being locked up because you have a specific
length dimension determined by the spring and another length dimension determined by the traction device..... those
lengths aren't the same, particularly when you start twisting the axle housing.
If you could just slap $100 worth of stuff on and it worked right and didn't cause issues, Calvert wouldn't have that fancy front gizmo on his setup....”

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

Interesting and I think I follow what you’re getting at. I am not familiar with the Calvert bars so will have to check those out to get the full picture. Do you run any sort of trailing arm on your track mustang?

So if you decide to keep your original upper control arms, I would recommend at least getting those blueprinted. Open tracker does a great set called cheaters. Also, I’m a big fan of roller lower control arms with the strut rods upgraded as well.

John has been fastastic in offering his advice in regards to doing my own cheater arms as I’m in Australia and freight ex US is killer. I have some roller arms from him on the way (and now replacement poly traction bar bushes!). Adjustable strut rods to go in also, coupled with Open Tracker’s delrin bushings. I have to say it’s been so refreshing interacting with all of the VM community. Such a helpful bunch of people!

 

Interesting and I think I follow what you’re getting at. I am not familiar with the Calvert bars so will have to check those out to get the full picture. Do you run any sort of trailing arm on your track mustang?

I have nothing on it. If you have the right spring, shackle/bushing and shock you don’t need anything else….. until you get into really big rear wheel hp, like 400 and up. But the solutions aren’t cheap at that point if you’re really being serious about something that works for handling.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

As someone who’s used the underrider TractionMaster bars on several cars, I’ll be the first to say they have their limitations. Any of the more sophisticated traction solutions will do a better job.

What the T/M bars will do is something no one else has been able to replicate: offer a modest degree of traction control at a very affordable price. Are they for everyone ? No, of course not. But will they help control some wheel hop brought on by an additional 50 horsepower ?

Maybe they will.

They’ve helped me in those moderate circumstances where I just needed a something affordable to correct a minor problem.

 

^^^ fair point @zray. Given mine are currently not creating any performance issues that I am at least aware of, I will put some new bushings in, properly grease them and continue with their use.

 

I've always thought these looked like a great design. I wish I'd bought a set when they were about $200. Not sure I can see $581 worth of stuff there.

https://autosalesinc.pxf.io/c/40473...39/2996090/35994?subid=autolinker&u=https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2100

 

Not quite as sophisticated but here’s an earlier than traction master adjustable design.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

I've always thought these looked like a great design. I wish I'd bought a set when they were about $200. Not sure I can see $581 worth of stuff there.

https://autosalesinc.pxf.io/c/40473...39/2996090/35994?subid=autolinker&u=https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2100

View attachment 931555

Not quite as sophisticated but here’s an earlier than traction master adjustable design.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995

 

I have a cheap solution on my car that nearly eliminates wheel hop and - I think - is neutral for handling.

Cheap Lakewood slappers (like below). I shimmed the aft attachment so the bumper is almost contacting the spring. Occasionally I'll get a little high-frequency, low-amplitude wheel hop as my tires start to hook up. Doesn't feel like it's going to break anything.

VMF generally makes fun of these bars but I'm a dinosaur and I think they look cool. And they work.