[SuperFrankieOSX]

I realize that my steering would click sometimes when I turn from a stop, I found this, should I stop driving immediately? Or is this something that can hold off for a bit. Its the bushing on the left in the photo that's clearly coming off.

 

[cruising68]

I would not drive it. If you have ever seen the video of strut rods moving under hard breaking you would never drive it like that. You can replace the bushings or better yet get some adjustable strut rods from Opentracker or SOT. Well worth the investment IMO.

 

[64-1/2 first.... 66 now]

I would not drive it. If you have ever seen the video of strut rods moving under hard breaking you would never drive it like that. You can replace the bushings or better yet get some adjustable strut rods from Opentracker or SOT. Well worth the investment IMO.

I don't think that's a strut rod, looks like power steering.

Should you drive it...… Do you feel lucky?

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

I would not drive it. If you have ever seen the video of strut rods moving under hard breaking you would never drive it like that. You can replace the bushings or better yet get some adjustable strut rods from Opentracker or SOT. Well worth the investment IMO.

Okay, now how hard would it exactly be to replace them, im not exactly experienced with suspension components and steering parts.

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

I don't think that's a strut rod, looks like power steering.

Should you drive it...… Do you feel lucky?

Good quote, Im sure its for the power steering

 

[watto1]

Fix it. Quick job. Don't drive it, your car it's telling you something, good thing you listened.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[dobrostang]

You probably won't die, but order the part and replace it as soon as possible. It looks to me like someone overtightened the nuts drastically, I don't see any play in the system but it could be the angle the photo is taken.

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

Fix it. Quick job. Don't drive it, your car it's telling you something, good thing you listened.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I guess I'm a good listener , it seems pretty easy, I will probably ask my grandpa about it but it will probably have to wait due to the current situation, im sure it can be done on a jack and stands right? Or should I get some ramps?

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

Got it, maybe ill take more pictures of it soon, I appreciate the help!

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

I guess I'm a good listener , it seems pretty easy, I will probably ask my grandpa about it but it will probably have to wait due to the current situation, im sure it can be done on a jack and stands right? Or should I get some ramps?

Oh wait I'm stupid, I'm obviously going to need a high jack and stands to take the weight off the suspension, oops

 

[cruising68]

I don't think that's a strut rod, looks like power steering.

Should you drive it...… Do you feel lucky?

Yes sir, my bad. Still good advice on the strut rods though

 

[1968Cally]

I guess I'm a good listener , it seems pretty easy, I will probably ask my grandpa about it but it will probably have to wait due to the current situation, im sure it can be done on a jack and stands right? Or should I get some ramps?

Get the bushing kit. It is probably $5. You can probably find it online at Napa, O'Reilly's etc. and have it sent to the store in order to save shipping that would be more than the part. If your skinny, you may not even need a jack. But, jacking up on the left side then a jackstand under the left front frame rail just to the rear of the gap between the front fender and the front door will make it easier. Once on the stand, push and pull on the car some to make sure it is stable. Take off the two bolts. Put a wrench on the inner one and hold it tight while taking off the outer one with another wrench. Then, take off the inner one by holding the shaft at the very end (not on the threads) while you take it off. Do not put pliers or vise grips on the shaft of the slave cylinder where it is polished looking!Then take the outer washer and bushing off. Turn the wheels to the right until the shaft comes out of the bracket. Then take off the inner bushing and washer off and replace with new. The side of the bushings with the higher ridges face the bracket. Have someone turn the wheels to the left while you guide the end through the bracket. Put on the outer bushing and it's washer, and take one nut and tighten it down until the bushing squeezes out to a diameter equal to the washers. Center the high ridges on the bushings in the bracket hole while tightening. Then lock down the first nut with the second nut. Done! Just like the top of the rear shock absorbers. Your Grandpa will know....

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

Get the bushing kit. It is probably $5. You can probably find it online at Napa, O'Reilly's etc. and have it sent to the store in order to save shipping that would be more than the part. If your skinny, you may not even need a jack. But, jacking up on the left side then a jackstand under the left front frame rail just to the rear of the gap between the front fender and the front door will make it easier. Once on the stand, push and pull on the car some to make sure it is stable. Take off the two bolts. Put a wrench on the inner one and hold it tight while taking off the outer one with another wrench. Then, take off the inner one by holding the shaft at the very end (not on the threads) while you take it off. Do not put pliers or vise grips on the shaft of the slave cylinder where it is polished looking!Then take the outer washer and bushing off. Turn the wheels to the right until the shaft comes out of the bracket. Then take off the inner bushing and washer off and replace with new. The side of the bushings with the higher ridges face the bracket. Have someone turn the wheels to the left while you guide the end through the bracket. Put on the outer bushing and it's washer, and take one nut and tighten it down until the bushing squeezes out to a diameter equal to the washers. Center the high ridges on the bushings in the bracket hole while tightening. Then lock down the first nut with the second nut. Done! Just like the top of the rear shock absorbers. Your Grandpa will know....

WOW! Thank you so much for the highly detailed advice! This helps a lot! I really appreciate it!

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

WOW! Thank you so much for the highly detailed advice! This helps a lot! I really appreciate it!

Wou

Get the bushing kit. It is probably $5. You can probably find it online at Napa, O'Reilly's etc. and have it sent to the store in order to save shipping that would be more than the part. If your skinny, you may not even need a jack. But, jacking up on the left side then a jackstand under the left front frame rail just to the rear of the gap between the front fender and the front door will make it easier. Once on the stand, push and pull on the car some to make sure it is stable. Take off the two bolts. Put a wrench on the inner one and hold it tight while taking off the outer one with another wrench. Then, take off the inner one by holding the shaft at the very end (not on the threads) while you take it off. Do not put pliers or vise grips on the shaft of the slave cylinder where it is polished looking!Then take the outer washer and bushing off. Turn the wheels to the right until the shaft comes out of the bracket. Then take off the inner bushing and washer off and replace with new. The side of the bushings with the higher ridges face the bracket. Have someone turn the wheels to the left while you guide the end through the bracket. Put on the outer bushing and it's washer, and take one nut and tighten it down until the bushing squeezes out to a diameter equal to the washers. Center the high ridges on the bushings in the bracket hole while tightening. Then lock down the first nut with the second nut. Done! Just like the top of the rear shock absorbers. Your Grandpa will know....

Would these be the right ones? Steering Rack Bushings - Ford Torino - Prothane 6705

 

[SuperFrankieOSX]

Get the bushing kit. It is probably $5. You can probably find it online at Napa, O'Reilly's etc. and have it sent to the store in order to save shipping that would be more than the part. If your skinny, you may not even need a jack. But, jacking up on the left side then a jackstand under the left front frame rail just to the rear of the gap between the front fender and the front door will make it easier. Once on the stand, push and pull on the car some to make sure it is stable. Take off the two bolts. Put a wrench on the inner one and hold it tight while taking off the outer one with another wrench. Then, take off the inner one by holding the shaft at the very end (not on the threads) while you take it off. Do not put pliers or vise grips on the shaft of the slave cylinder where it is polished looking!Then take the outer washer and bushing off. Turn the wheels to the right until the shaft comes out of the bracket. Then take off the inner bushing and washer off and replace with new. The side of the bushings with the higher ridges face the bracket. Have someone turn the wheels to the left while you guide the end through the bracket. Put on the outer bushing and it's washer, and take one nut and tighten it down until the bushing squeezes out to a diameter equal to the washers. Center the high ridges on the bushings in the bracket hole while tightening. Then lock down the first nut with the second nut. Done! Just like the top of the rear shock absorbers. Your Grandpa will know....

Or this one? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...304608/gates-kit/348491/4331319?q=1968+mustang+power+steering+bushing+kit&pos=1

 

[Woodchuck]

Wondering why I never thought of it before..... Weld this into the bracket and replace the original set-up with a high-offset spherical bearing.

 

[dennis111]

Wondering why I never thought of it before..... Weld this into the bracket and replace the original set-up with a high-offset spherical bearing.

Its been done commercially before (about 10 years ago) but was deemed an illegal mod in Super Stock drag racing because the bearing was not "originally" designed for the fore/aft movement strength needed in that application. They didn't say it wouldn't work but it was a safety violation according their rules and there definitly was no cushioning provided by the solid design of the bearing.

I had a set back when. The sperical bearing used was is commonly available $20 suspension part that is used in other suspension applications. The "conversion" rods were somewhat different than stock and there were adapter shells that held the easily replaceable bearing in place on the strut bracket hole.

I never heard of any actual breakage issues though and I saw no issues with the ones that I had, even taking into account street driving. I probably have/had some pictures which are now held in extortion lockdown thanks to photobucket.

 

[dennis111]

Found some of my pics and the struts were Calvert Racing:

 

[Hemikiller]

Or this one? https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...304608/gates-kit/348491/4331319?q=1968+mustang+power+steering+bushing+kit&pos=1

That's why I don't shop at O'Reilly... $35 for a $12 kit.

1970 FORD MUSTANG 5.8L 351cid V8 Power Steering Cylinder Boot Kit | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 1970 FORD MUSTANG at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[1968Cally]

That's why I don't shop at O'Reilly... $35 for a $12 kit.

1970 FORD MUSTANG 5.8L 351cid V8 Power Steering Cylinder Boot Kit | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 1970 FORD MUSTANG at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

These "kits" include the dust cover for the slave cylinder rod. I was not thinking about that in my last post but looking at your picture, it is missing. The O'Reilly one is indeed ridiculous so get the one from Rock Auto and bite the bullet on shipping. But, if you have other parts to order from one of the many Mustang Parts vendors, just add the kit to your order. I would suggest that you also order a shop manual. Get the hard copy version - much easier to work with rather than the CD version.

Here is a link to a YouTube video produced by CJ Pony Parts that covers what you need to do. Its pretty good. Note that the nut is supposed to be a castle nut with cotter pin thereby eliminating the need for the second "lock" nut you currently have.

This forum, the shop manual, your Grandpa, Google and YouTube should be at the top of your tools list.