Ignition 180 degrees off? Remember, there is TDC compression and TDC overlap...

Verify TDC when both valve on #1 are closed; note distributor rotor location in relation to #1 plug wire.

Also, verify firing order of camshaft....there are different ones for SBF's...

Good luck!

 

Could it just be timing? I just put new heads on my 289, wouldn't start, went through all the checks you did. Turns out all I needed to do was twist the disti a bit. Eyeballing the rotor position at TDC has a huge margine of error. Try starting while turning the disti to various angles.

 

Since the dist. cap will only go one way due to the notch that fits around a screw..and I marked where aprox. the #1 wire was on the cap by marking the intake(at about one o'clock looking at the motor from front.can the dist. be 180 ddegrees off?

The spark plug boots were marked 1-4 on each side when I removeed them and they went back on that way..could there be an error there somewheere? Hadd marked them from the initial comp. testing..
Thanks

 

Did you do what I did and put the plug wires on clockwise instead of anticlockwise? Is the vacuumn connection on the distributor pointing straight out towards the rad or is it against th erad hose or the other way towards the drivers side fender? Did you get the intake seals to seal good, any vacuumn leaks there?, how about the carb base for vacuum leaking?
If the vacuum pot on the distributor is tight towards the rad hose you can get cross firing which you deffinetly do not want.Lift it up and turn it anticlockwise until you have it sitting straight out, touch the starter and it should drop into place, have the engine at TDC when you do this. With the other vacuum leaks, remove th coil wire and crank it over, see if you can hear air rushing anywhere.If it is a small leak you may not hear it doing this so will have to recheck later when you get it running.Coil wires hooked up right? Just some ideas, hope one or all help some.

 

Ambush, double check everything, starting with the crank at TDC on the compression, #1 cyl. valves closed, make sure spark plug wires are in the correct firing order. Check position of dist. the rotor should be pointing to the #1 wire if all is good. The one thing you didn't mention is the process for adjusting your valves. If you set the valves too tight you can have the symptoms you describe. Let us know your method of valve adjustment.

 

Carb was not seperated from intake so no leak there
Wires were not removed from cap and weree marked 1-4 when I did comp test so back on correctly..
Following the Ford Manual..did adjustment by the quatering dampner into 90 degree seections and started with #1 at TDC..verified TDC 4 times by combo check of TDC mark and completely removing rockers again to viualy see the push rods in the lowest position indicating both valves closed and physically feeling piston at top with small screwdriver thru plug hole
Went thru all valves/rockers again..just now..backed all off from the one and half extra turn book reccommends that I had origianlly set at..loosen completely..following 90 degree instrctions and when push rod wouldn't roll in fingertips, tightenned one half turn..
Checked for fire on #1 plug with a sprk plug laying on intake..good ,hot,bright spark.
Still will not fire up..

 

By the quatering method for valve adjusting do you mean tha you adjusted some at tdc, some at 180 degrees and then around 135 degrees to finish? That is the spots that the book I have says to do them.You have to mark the spots, best with two people so you can measure it aroound with a tape so you get the true 180 and the true 135. Can;t backup to the 45degree to get the 135. .
The manual I have also says that you do not tighten that tight..You adjust until you feel resistance when rolling the rod and that is where you stop.Another 1/2 turn would or can bend the rods..What book are you useing? I have the Ford Mustang Fairlane, Falcon manuel for 1966 as well as Rebuilding your small block Ford. Neither say to tighten that extra 1/2 turn, that might be where your problem is..What I did was mark the damper with chalk at the tdc, 180 and the 135 from the 180. had the battery disconected and a 15/16 socket on the nut on the crank so I could watch the rockers and get the spots I wanted.Found this to be the easiest way when doing it alone.

 

You do have to go an extra 1/2 turn with hydraulic lifters on adjustable rockers, that sets the lash which the lifters will compensate for.

 

Am using 1965 Comet, Falcon,Fairlane and Mustang Shop Manual..Officially Liecense by Ford Nov. 1994..under section 8,,which is engines..common adjustment and repairs section,,page 8-12 289 Valve clearance."onec push rod end clearance has been eeliminated, tighten the stud nut and additional 1 1'2 turns to place lifter plunger in the center of it's travel" Hard to believe 1 1/2 turns but there it is Dampner is marked off at 90 degree intervals /a,///b,/c,/////////////d running counterclockwise with instructions to turn 90 and adjust the appropriate valve in firing order,,Went back and looseen all rockers then retighten only adding a half turn, that I've seee many time on the forum..
Thanks for your continued help/suggestions!!!

 

Also, you're suppose to roll the pushrods in your fingers while tightening and stop when you feel a SLIGHT resistance, then turn 1/2 turn more, you may be overtightening. I did that on my 351W once, had the same symptoms you describe. I do my rocker adjustments one at a time, I feel better and it doesn't take that much longer and can be done alone. Good luck.
Pete

 

OK, have you checked the other wiring? Solinoid terminals, coil and distributor feed. Just ideas..If you have the engine adjusted right, timing, valves, getting fuel, lots of spark but no vroooooom..maybe it is a wire on wrong? Tries to start but just backfires, mine was doing that as well but I had a bad vacummn leak and a worn out distributor gear.But you do not have the leak and you have the timing set properly. Got to be electrical short somewhere or wire crossed. Do you have the neg coil to dist. Engine feed to + side of coil? Right wire on the coil, I know stupid question but hey..`who knows we all make mistakes..
The manual I have is an old original 66 one, seems the settings in it are different than yours..
Lost for ideas for now but will see what else I can find.

 

Try this, Place a known good spark plug in the # wire lay against a good ground such as exhaust manifold . Pull all other wires and plugs and spin over the motor with a friends help or a remote switch with ignition on. If the plug is firing you now have a known reference to work from. Using your remote now tap over the engine carefully noting where the plug fires . Repeat this step until you can stop almost right at the firing point. Check to see if you are at or very near TDC should be off just a few degrees. Depending on what your particular engine calls for probably somewhere between 6-8 % BTDC. If this seems to be ok and you are absolutely sure you are placing the right wire to the right cylinder then most likely your valves are out of adjustment. Valve adjustment is a very simple task once you understand it but like alot alot of simple things until you figure it out it seems really difficult. An oldtimer enlightened me . Think of it this way you are not trying to adjust 16 valves . Only ONE just 16 different ones. Forget the quater/adjust method . If you are a line mechanic that adjusts valves everyday and could do it in your sleep its fine but for someone who only adjusts valves ocasionally AND want them adjusted as close to optimum as possible there is only one correct way. Just remember this ,right in on the wall of your shop/garage or somewhere you wont lose it. E O I C which stands for Exhaust open Intake close . Now how this works . As you bump the engine over ( with the coil disconected ) when the exhaust valve just starts to open adjust the intake valve . On hydrallic lifters losen until you can turn the pushrod easily between your fingers tightn slowly until you just START to feel resistance stop and then tighten 1/4 - 1/2 turn ( depends upon Cam manufacturer and or oem specs ) but to start a troublesome engine I usually start at 1/4 turn.Now continue to bump engine until the intake valve opens and just as it starts to close stop and adjust the exhaust valve. Repeat this process through your firing order. ( which order you do it in really doesnt matter but until you really understand this process it will help to keep you from getting lost and missing a cylinder. Now everything else being correct. The engine should start right up. Once it is running you will need to adjust hydrallics while running . This is even easier but there are several prefered methods here too. Either use oil restrictors or a slitted old valve cover . I personally will loosen each valve until I hear a noticible ticking sound then tighten the valve SLOWLY until the ticking stops NOW tighten the valve 1/2 turn . Follow recomended specs but rule of thumb is 1/2 turn. Do one side then the other . And thats it . Solid lifter engines are a whole other matter. but still use the eoic method.Hope this helps you out.