I'm putting a 5.0 EFI in a 65 Mustang. It will start if I jump across the solenoid, but not with key, only cranks. It has a Painless wiring harness and 3 G alternator. Isn't getting fire to the spark plugs when I crank it over with key. It used to work with key until I made a few changes to the wiring and changed alternator.
Won't start with key
Oldford65
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I'm putting a 5.0 EFI in a 65 Mustang. It will start if I jump across the solenoid, but not with key, only cranks. It has a Painless wiring harness and 3 G alternator. Isn't getting fire to the spark plugs when I crank it over with key. It used to work with key until I made a few changes to the wiring and changed alternator.
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That is the trouble, I made too many changes at one time. The person I got the car from really had the wiring messed up. He spliced red to green to blue in one run. A lot of things were not fused. I can't believe people do that stuff. I'm about ready to rewire the entire car. Thanks
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It is likely to do with factory solenoid. Do you have the one with two prongs sticking out or one? Is the ignition to coil hot when key in start position or only when in on position? Do you have the ignition hooked to start or ignition or both? Im betting something off in this sequence as its different than modern cars. The ignition needs to be hot in both key and on. In youth i fixed/rigged this by putting a toggle switch like race cars to ignition/coil. I'd switch it on and then use key for starter. May be a bad OEM ignition switch too.
These may have all been looked at but when my ignition switch in dash went bad, I could start it under hood but wouldn't start with key. When i ran switched wire to coil, it would start with key. Just a long shot, but best of luck.
These may have all been looked at but when my ignition switch in dash went bad, I could start it under hood but wouldn't start with key. When i ran switched wire to coil, it would start with key. Just a long shot, but best of luck.
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is the check engine light on? have you tried to pull error codes?
it sounds like part of run/start/crank connections.
Is the pump running for 3 sec when you turn on the ignition?
One other thing, do you still have the pink resistor wire in the car? I jumpered mine out with vampire clips. 1 so I can remove it if I ever want to, and 2 because it was easy.
it sounds like part of run/start/crank connections.
Is the pump running for 3 sec when you turn on the ignition?
One other thing, do you still have the pink resistor wire in the car? I jumpered mine out with vampire clips. 1 so I can remove it if I ever want to, and 2 because it was easy.
Just installed new ignition switch, didn't help but needed it anyways. Yes the check engine stays on but I don't have the oxygen sensors hooked up yet. I know I don't have one wire hooked up, just can't figure which one. I think it is in the solenoid too. I have a wire run from key switch to the post next to the battery post and another wire on the same runs down to starter, the other post is empty. It only gets fire to the coil when I jump solenoid and starts right up. Thanks
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Hate it when that happens. I always do that to, make to many changes at once. Wish I could help.
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Are you using a fender-mounted solenoid with an "I" terminal? If so, the wire to the "I" terminal should run into your wiring harness to power your ignition. Since the stock ignition switch cuts ALL the power to everything except the "S" post when turned to "START" you have nothing powering the ignition.
If you no longer have the fender-mounted solenoid, then install a relay that is triggered by your starter energizing wire to provide current while cranking to your ignition system.
If you no longer have the fender-mounted solenoid, then install a relay that is triggered by your starter energizing wire to provide current while cranking to your ignition system.
Yes I'm using a fender mounted solenoid. The wire from ignition switch Red/blue goes to the S post and another wire off it goes to the starter switch. Are you saying I need to add a wire from I post to go to ignition... if so where should I run it to? This is a EFI engine with Painless wiring harness for Fuel injection. Thanks
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645 Posts
I know the pic is for a 67, but i hope it helps. If not, maybe someone can provide a '65.
Also,
From the Painless documentation:
Red/blue 1 wire NSS wire This wire connects to the “I” terminal of the starter solenoid if using the A9P ECM only.If you are using the A9L ECM this wire connects to 1 side of your clutch safety switch. make sure the other side of the clutch switch is going to ground not power. If you are running power through the clutch switch you must use a relay to activate this wire to ground (this is explained on page 19 of this manual)
Also,
From the Painless documentation:
Red/blue 1 wire NSS wire This wire connects to the “I” terminal of the starter solenoid if using the A9P ECM only.If you are using the A9L ECM this wire connects to 1 side of your clutch safety switch. make sure the other side of the clutch switch is going to ground not power. If you are running power through the clutch switch you must use a relay to activate this wire to ground (this is explained on page 19 of this manual)
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Since you can start the engine with the key in RUN by jumping the solenoid, you can eliminate everything that has to do with the EFI. It sounds like you are losing power to the ignition system and/or the EEC whenever you go to the START position. The ignition switches in most cars cut power to all the accessories whenever the switch is in the START position. For old cars, the ignition system gets power form the solenoid's "I" terminal while cranking. For newer cars, a very complicated ignition switch handles all of this.
I would troubleshoot as follows:
1. Pull the small red/blue wire off the "S" terminal of the solenoid so that you don't crank the engine while you are performing the next steps.
2. Disconnect the 60 pin connector from the EEC.
3. At pin 1, make sure you have +12V at all times - this is a constant +12V input to the EEC. Check it with the ignition switch in OFF, RUN, & START.
4. At pins 37 & 57, perform the same checks for +12V. You should get 0V in the OFF position & +12V in the RUN and START positions. (My guess is that you are not getting +12V at these points in the START position).
5. If you are getting +12V in the RUN position but not in the START position, your EEC power relay is dropping out when you go to START. If this is the case, you need to supply power to the EEC power relay while cranking. I can give you some ideas on how to do this if this turns out to be the problem.
6. If you are seeing +12V in the START position, perform the same checks at the positive feed to your ignition coil.
7. If everything checks out fine, post your results here and I'll dig further into schematics.
I would troubleshoot as follows:
1. Pull the small red/blue wire off the "S" terminal of the solenoid so that you don't crank the engine while you are performing the next steps.
2. Disconnect the 60 pin connector from the EEC.
3. At pin 1, make sure you have +12V at all times - this is a constant +12V input to the EEC. Check it with the ignition switch in OFF, RUN, & START.
4. At pins 37 & 57, perform the same checks for +12V. You should get 0V in the OFF position & +12V in the RUN and START positions. (My guess is that you are not getting +12V at these points in the START position).
5. If you are getting +12V in the RUN position but not in the START position, your EEC power relay is dropping out when you go to START. If this is the case, you need to supply power to the EEC power relay while cranking. I can give you some ideas on how to do this if this turns out to be the problem.
6. If you are seeing +12V in the START position, perform the same checks at the positive feed to your ignition coil.
7. If everything checks out fine, post your results here and I'll dig further into schematics.
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