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Zero degrees camber with only 1/8” shim on front bolt, options?

3.1K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Boxhead  
#1 ·
I am trying to dial in the alignment on my 1965 coupe with Shelby drop and Eibach progressive rate lowering springs for reference. All parts except the coil springs are new. My passenger side camber reading is zero degrees with only an 1/8” shim on the front upper control arm bolt to start. Driver’s side reads negative 1.5 degrees with the same 1/8” shim on the front bolt. I haven’t checked the caster yet, but shooting for positive 2.0-3.5 degrees there.

Is my best option the lower control arm camber kit to achieve negative 1.5 degrees camber? Or maybe use SoT upper control arms? In the short term, to get this thing back on the road, I am thinking about setting the drivers side to zero degrees camber. All advice is appreciated.

Thank you.

Rusty
 
#2 ·
If you have that much difference side to side with camber and the same shim thickness you might have something that's bent in the shock tower? Using the LCA camber kit might get you the adjustment you need . But you should double check your front end to find the problem area
 
#3 ·
Something sounds like it is out of whack if you only have one 1/8" shim on the forward bolt and the camber is already where you want it. If you add more shims to increase the caster you are going to be in positive camber territory and you definitely don't want that. You should be shooting for .5*-1.0* negative camber.
Are your UCAs too long or your LCAs too short? You may need to add the adjustable LCA mounts like Opentracker and SoT sell to move the LCA outboard which will increase the negative camber.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the responses!

I know there is past front end damage, but it doesn’t look too bad. It looked like it all involved sheet metal, not into the frame. I do have a ZRay crossmember and it fits like a glove. I have new upper and lower control arms from Opentracker, so I doubt that is an issue. I just found all of this last night and need to dive back in and figure this out. The lower control arm camber kit sounds like the way to go at this point.

Thank you, again!

Rusty
 
#6 ·
#7 · (Edited)
I had the same exact issue you have with no shims I had 0° Camber on my passenger side and -1.25° caster. I ended up going with the Pacific Thunder adjustable LCAs linked above + the SoT adjustable UCAs which are threaded all the way in on the inner bolt and the maximum amount out (9 full turns) on the outer bolt.

I am now running -1° Camber and +3.5° caster both sides with no fitment issues with my 245 tires.
 
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#8 ·
Thank you, again for taking the time and adding to this thread.

Last night I remembered something, as this project has not progressed as smoothly and organized as it should have.

I also have the SoT adjustable strut rods and when I installed them, I did so with a bare front end so no previous measurement to start at. My strut rods are installed at the shortest length, which should result in caster maxed out, correct?

My next question is, as I lengthen the strut rod, will that change camber to the negative side? I will try it when I get back to work on the car again.

Rusty
 
#9 ·
My next question is, as I lengthen the strut rod, will that change camber to the negative side? I will try it when I get back to work on the car again.

Rusty
Lengthen meaning what? Unscrewing the swage tube or usling a longer one?

im thinking that if you have it pulled fully forward that pushing the LCA will back some will add to negative camber a bit just because as it moves closer to perpendicular to its mount it will be a max length.
If you have the LCA is pulled forward enough for this to happen the bushing should be ****-eyed and not sustainable.
 
#10 ·
I think I'll agree with you. The struts are are a angle to the lower arm. For argument sake, at lets say the strut is set for zero caster the bottom of the tire is going to be farther out for what would give negative camber. As you pull the strut to add caster, the lower arm is following a arc. The more caster you pull, the more arc on the lower arm and the more the camber will go towards positive camber.
 
#11 ·
When I did my car with SoT struts I had the stock lower arms on. With the car up on jack stands I used level against the lower arm to mark a line on my garage floor as a reference point. I carefully adjust both struts so they were equal. Then installed them on the car adjusted them so both lower arms matched back up to the witness marks on the floor. Again using a level. I already had just installed SoT upper arms which I estimated had about 3* positive caster with no shims. I ended up with 3.5* on one side and 3* on the other. I fine tuned the 3* side to 3.5*.

It was after this orduring this did I discover my stock lower arm bushings were totally wasted and ended up getting SoT lower arms. Now everything is spot on
 
#13 ·
Success! Thank you for the help!

Two full turns to lengthen the strut rod gave me -0.5* camber. I have +3.5* caster and 1/8” toe. I’ll start there and see how it drives.

I imagine I can try lengthening the strut rods another turn or two and see how the camber changes, but I’ll save that for after I see how it drives.

Thank you, again! This is a great forum to belong to!

Rusty
 
#15 ·
That's close to what I initially set my alignment to. I had a little more camber mostly for tire clearance. What's really interesting about your post looking back I ran into the same thing and didn't realize it. I should have but didn't. When I first set my caster to 3.5* I think I had the strut pulled a bit. Mt camber was close if not positive camber. I did have my stock lower arms in. I pulled my lower arms to install a camber kit and noticed my LCA bushings were totally wasted. I attributed the poor camber to the bushings, which I'm sure didn't help. I ordered SoT lower arms and installed the camber kit since it wasn't expensive and I had bought it already along with thinking my car may have been a little out of spec while never thinking the influence of the strut on camber as you have shown. Good catch! Like I said I never put 2 and 2 together.
 
#16 ·
Tom,

Your DIY alignment thread gave me the confidence to tackle this. Thank you very much. It is truly an item any of us can address at home by investing in some quality tools instead of rolling the dice with a local shop.

As my bank account recovers, I plan on getting the SoT uppers and camber kit. This will get me back on the road though.

Rusty
 
#17 ·
No, thank you! I only tried to do my own alignment because I was afraid the local shops would either refuse to touch the car or they would totally F it up and charge me a fortune. I stopped and thought if I did all this suspension work, why can’t I do my own alignment? So I did. It’s totally doable as you said with the basic equipment and why I preach about doing it.

I funded most of my suspension by selling a lot of scrap metal and literally picking pennies off the ground and saving them, not kidding. It adds up.
 
#18 ·
Tom,

I too was sold, by you, to do my own alignment on my '73 after I installed the SoT full coil over system. I bought a Tenhulzen castor/camber tool and my 18 year old son and I dialed it all in within a few hours whilst finally fully understanding car alignment. He, a soon to be a junior in mechanical engineering at Texas A&M, thoroughly enjoyed the exercise. He too. got it. Amazingly easy with the full SoT kit and quite logical as one progresses. As you say, if you can install the parts, you can also align the car.