Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

retro77

· Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all, I'm Rob and this is Amber, my [originally] Burnt Amber 1967 Mustang GT:


2007


She's got her papers
I bought her way back in 2005 from my best friend. Since then I have gotten divorced, moved from SoCal to NorCal, back to SoCal and several times all over San Diego county and finally out to Oklahoma. Every place I moved to, had a place for Amber. Some places where rented solely for their garages. I'm using the 2007 shot above because this is when I actually started working on her. And coincidentally enough, right after the divorce and when I had my own place with my own goals in mind.


Pulling the motor & it started raining
Was that a sign or a grace from God to not rain until I had it out?


Today
[87 Supra, 5spd, turbo sneaking into the shot; another first year motor option car for the US market]


Painted the engine bay this week
[for the second time, haha]​

The current place I am in, I own! No more renting and moving every year! I did rent this place for a year before I bought it. And rented it solely for the shop in the back, that can hold 3 vehicles, their parts and my crap.

Details:
  • 390FE rebuilt by JBA Speed Shop out of San Diego: 1.25" stroker crank with a little bit of bore for a final cubic inches of 442. Edelbrock heads, intake & cam. I bought the Professional Products Powerjection III system back in the day, we'll see if I can get that working or if I need to go grab the Holley TBI EFI. Professional Products quit making these years ago. They used to have a forum where you could could get help from them directly. Filled in & removed the logos from the intake, heads & water pump. Speaking of water pump: Edelbrock Victor Jr. Painted the engine with POR-15 Ford Corporate Blue.​
  • 3 speed top loader & 9" rear end rebuilt by professionals. Auburn, clutch style LSD.​
  • Stripped the engine bay with air craft stripper and used Eastwood's flat black engine bay primer & their satin black engine bay paint​
  • Repainted the engine bay this week since I scratched it all up tried to fit headers on the car. Still don't know why the JBA long-tube headers that had the correct flange for a Cobra Jet style head, but stuck out into the shock towers like they didn't know the exhaust ports were higher than the GT heads. I beat the crap out of them with a hammer to get them to fit and there was just no way. I lost years in frustration over one part. Now I've got a set of Sanderson, Block Hugger, shorty headers and they fit with installing outside of the car and dropping the engine in as a package.​
  • Global West tubular suspension upfront, including their 535lb coil springs, QA1 single adjustable shocks, OpenTracker roller perches & SSBC disc brakes on some OE sized PowerStop rotors.​
  • Stock style replacement leafs in the rear with the matched QA1 shocks to the front.​
  • 17" steel wheels I bought off Summit Racing wrapped in [dry rotting] Falken Azenis tires.​
  • New stainless brake & fuel lines [routed 68 style]​
  • American Autowire kit.​
  • Gauges are in a new reproduction bezel [NOS one on the shelf]. I sent the ammeter out to have it converted to a volt meter. Have one of those tachs from Retrogauge that fits in the blank/clock hole​
Parts in the wings:
  • Parchment TMI Sport Seat covers & the matching foams, door panels and rear seat cover
  • Magnaflow 3" exhaust
  • DeWitts aluminum, direct fit radiator [black]
  • Vintage Air kit
  • Scott Drake repop air cleaner
  • Tons of NOS & original parts I've gathered over the years and wish I woulda bought even more back when they were available
If you can't tell, I'm planning on taking this car through some turns via AutoX and maybe a track day here and there and definitely some road trips to find some curvy roads. It's not only flat out here in Oklahoma, but it's pretty straight too...

I'm going for an original looking build that performs. Hence the removing logos and using original looking paints and finishes.

So far all work I have done has been with out a lift or an air compressor. I also don't use power tools to remove fasteners. All wrenches & ratchets here.

I've worked on Amber from detached garages with the only power source coming from a light socket on a timer [2 places like this], 2 car garages and a storage unit. It's been a long, tough road, but its coming together now. I feel that now is a good time to start my build thread as I am finally into the assembly phase.

My background: 25 year IT Professional [highly technical; 5 of which I spent in the Marines] I grew up watching my Dad rebuild carbs on the coffee table and wrenching on his various vehicles and being "his right hand man" [his words] I was right there for all of it. Absorbing what was possible for a working Father to do to keep his work truck '73 Chevy truck on the road and even built into an beast [from a fleet side, short bed C10 to a step side, long bed K30+; I say plus because he had helper springs on the K30 spring pack in the rear]. He was a flooring contractor.

Every aspect of the car, I've had to learn about and how. A lot of knowledge from VMF, FordFe.com and a stack of books and Mustang Monthly mags.

I'm trying to do the Youtube thing, but I aint a Youtuber...haha!

I'll be getting more pictures & video going of the progress if you're interested. It seems the 67-68 Mustangs are really rising in interest right now. There are a lot of active build threads going lately.

Follow along if you like and I'll try to address any questions, comments or concerns.

edit: I had the wrong decade after I thought about it, haha. Time flies.
 
I’ll be following
 
I have the JBA tri-y's on my motor with Trick Flow heads. The front bolts are tight but other than that and the clearance at the Lakewood scatter shield they fit great. Edelbrock casts the heads for Trick Flow so I think they would be the same size dementionaly. I wonder why you had issues. A long tube header on your motor would make a substantial difference in power. FPA makes a nice Tri-y that I've had luck with in the past.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
The things you discover while seeing a flood of date codes in your engine bay...story time!

According the Marti report, Amber was serialized 11/23/66, [not sure what a blank buck date means], but not scheduled for build until 12/6/66. After painting the engine bay, a sea of date codes gets revealed:

Most in late November, after it was serialized. I wonder if the sheet metal was a little behind there, early in the production of the 67's?

Up next are installing the brakes lines, steering box/linkages. If I get some good weather, maybe paint the rest of the engine pieces [water pump, thermostat housing, dip stick tube, etc]. The transmission still needs some paint its POR-15 High Temp Manifold gray to make it look more like it did off the assembly line.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
The large scale art project continues over here:



Also have the bolts I need for the accessory assembly in vinegar to remove the nickel and cadmium coating. Have some black oxide on the way to make 'em all look the same:

In other news:
  • Found a NOS Parchment steering wheel on evilBay​
  • Also found the correct clutch fan, but the real damage to the fins didn't really come through the pictures too well...looking into maybe just getting the repop. But the repop is only 18" where as the correct one is ~19 1/2". So loosing some cooling surface there. I'm hoping to find a service in the OKC Metro that balances fans...​
  • Ordered the monster/heavy duty Vintage Air clutch, but it is now not going to ship until May. Oh well, that'll be here before I know it. We'll see what depth they went with when it arrives...​
  • Dropped off a ton of tidbits off at the powder-coater. Like the alt brackets, upper shock tower mounts, motor mounting plates, etc. That way it'll match and be fresh at the same time.​
 
Welcome. Love all the pictures.

Edit. Just read the Marti report. Quite unusual to have a GT and console with a 3-speed. Understand the 4-speed was more money than the 390!
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Glad you're digging it, CJM68GT390!

Yes, and luckily the original 3spd was in the trunk when I got the car. A guy or two ago had installed a C6, "for his daughter" was how the story was recounted to me.

When the car fell in my lap, I had no idea how rare it was. Once I got the Marti report back 🤯

Next up is treating the hardware with the black oxide. This will be later next week when it comes in.

I'll probably scuff and spray the steering box and maybe try and paint the Flaming River top plate as well.

Also I need a container big enough for the center link to get a vinegar bath and probably the tie-rods as well...that way they can be black oxided. As apposed to painting or powder-coating.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Micro-updates:


Glamor shot with valve cover


This is what happens when
it takes longer to get 'er runnin'
than the bushings can last...​
...which spurs addition dips into the ole bank account for an OpenTracker Racing manual steer, Trans-Am Roller Idler Arm for a 1967-1970 Mustang or Cougar.
I did dip extra further for the rebuild-ability. Quick calculations revealed that it'll pay for itself over the lifetime of the vehicle [probably beyond this current care-giver].

I also poisened my brain with seeing OT's "double-roller" spring/shock perch...I have the OG roller spring perch, haven't gotten 'er running yet, but those are on the wish list...#removeallthebinding!
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts