[gwstang]

:loco: shelby drop/1"lower springs/66 mustang. I got the camber set on one side to -.5 but, It took a heck of a lot of shims. The nuts are flush on the end of the bolt. (i.e no more adjustment left) Is this how it usually goes with the shelby drop?

Problem #2: I have the fastrax camber/castor tool from summitracing. I understand the camber as it is just using the bubble to get the wheel set. I do not understand how to know if I have turned the wheel 15 degrees to read the castor? Do I have to mark with a protractor or something? :shrug:

 

[Midlife]

Rule of thumb: one full turn of the steering wheel is 20*, typical of what one uses to measure camber.

 

[gwstang]

Okay, I guess as long as I do it the same in both directions, which is what the instructions call for. Thanks, Randy. You have been a big help on this project! :thumbsup:

 

[gwstang]

Forgot to add that I have the gt quick steering box on my 66, does that matter on the amount of turn of the wheel?

 

[cyclone03]

Make sure the car is sitting on leval ground! Left to right and end to end.If nothing else set each wheel on wood/sheet metal/floor tile pads and level the car if the car is sitting low on one side you will end up with -.5 on one side and +.5 on the other!
Also set both tire pressures side to side the same ie; fronts 35psi rear 28psi or what ever you want just make them the same side to side.

 

[mod9]

I don't know about your caster camber gauge but mine is angled on the end. That angle on mine is equal to the angle the wheel needs to turn. I just turn my wheel until the angle part of the gauge is straight with the side of my car.

 

[gwstang]

The gauge has a leveling function for resetting zer is the floor is not level. It's for using at a track or home. I am going to bring the car to work where I have a very level floor to check when I am finished. thanks, gary.

 

[gwstang]

It does have the angle on the end. I did not realize that was the function. Thanks, gary.

 

[1965GTFB]

As mentioned before the angle on the end of the gauge is what you use. I also used my saw protractor and a sharpie to mark the angle on the floor as a second visual reference.

 

[Dremel]

"heck of a lot of shims"

To you have a Monty bar and export brace?

After I install the bar, I found that there were a LOT of extra shims that I no longer needed.

 

[blkfrd]

When I aligned my car, I had to use a lot of shims on the passenger's side and almost none on the driver's side. Are your lower control arm bushings OK? Make sure the floor is level too.

If you have a 19:1 manual steering box, one turn of the wheel is about 19 degrees. For a 16:1 box, one turn is about 23 degrees.

Make sure you bounce the car or better yet drive it up the block and back before measuring again between changes.

Put a piece of sheet metal or some other thin slippery material under the tires before doing the caster measurement...tires will turn easily without distorting anything.

 

[gwstang]

I had another post (Big Problem) where I went to the alignment shop and he said the camber was very good, but could not set the castor because there was no more room left on the front drivers side bolt to add shims. I need to visit a frame shop to pull the frame a little, then go back to get the correct caster. The car does drive a lot better than before. I hit some sharp curves pretty hard and the shelby mod makes a world of difference! Thanks, gary.

 

[blkfrd]

I had another post (Big Problem) where I went to the alignment shop and he said the camber was very good, but could not set the castor because there was no more room left on the front drivers side bolt to add shims. I need to visit a frame shop to pull the frame a little, then go back to get the correct caster. The car does drive a lot better than before. I hit some sharp curves pretty hard and the shelby mod makes a world of difference! Thanks, gary.

I have the same problem. I can't get any more camber on the driver's side if I increase caster using shims. I have one shim on the front bolt and no shims on the rear bolt. I can gain more caster by adjusting my strut rods, but my tire will rub on the fender if I do it. I have 17x8s on the front and back. The only thing I have left is to take the UCA off and offset the shaft to gain caster. Someday, I may do this. I am set up with -.5 camber and right around 2 degrees caster. I'd like to have 3 degrees caster.

 

[JSHarvey]

It should use LESS shims to get to the same camber setting post Arning Drop as compared to pre Arning Drop. Do you have an export brace and monte carlo bar installed? Is the normal full weight of the car (i.e., engine, radiator, battery, fenders, etc.) on the front?

John Harvey

 

[gwstang]

Yes, I have the export brace and monte carlo bar. The full weight is sitting on the front end. I drive this car frequently so it's put together and running.

 

[JSHarvey]

That's very odd. Doing the Arning Drop should move the upper control arm closer to level. That pushes the tire end of the control arm outwards - meaning you would need to remove shims relative to the old alignment to bring the tire back to the proper camber.

Since you have the braces in place, I guess the critical thing is whether you can get the alignment to the proper spec, it sounds like you did - just barely. So all should be OK.

JMO

John Harvey