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2009 Pony Grille - 3D print brackets?

1.1K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  W427  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I've got my car over at the paint shop. While I'm anxiously awaiting its return, I've been trying to keep busy with related tasks while it's been cold out.

When I disassembled my car back in the early 2000s my grille and bars were in sad shape. My 20 some year old mind just figured I'd easily replace them and they were discarded.

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Sometime last year I saw an article with a blue 67 that had the sharpest looking grille (to me anyway).

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I found that the grill bars, emblem and fogs were from a 2009 ish pony package v6 car. I've searched for information on it but came up short.

Last summer, at a swap meet, I spotted a 67 grille poking out of a pile of parts. I promptly pulled it out and walked away with it $10 bucks lighter.

Around the same time I started a hunt for a pony grille. They are pretty expensive! I managed to find one that was damaged on the mounting points and such, probably from a FE collision for a pretty reasonable price. After all, I didn't need any of the outside pieces.

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I managed to get my parts for less $125 so I count myself ahead as I understand the repop grilles are flimsy and don't fit right.

I spent a ton of time with my multi-tool and Dremel cutting out the important bits. It was not fun.

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After all the bits were removed I sanded everything smooth and started on the grille.

I lined up the centers of both assemblies, marked locations for the fogs to pass through and cut out the holes.

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I sanded everything smooth and clean, and painted both hot rod black and stain clear.

I think it turned out pretty darn good. Perfect, no but pretty good.

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What I need to do now is find a way to fasten the two together. There isn't much material to work with on either assembly. I was thinking there might be a way to 3D print some brackets to go behind the fog light screws. Only problem is I don't know a thing about 3D printing!

I'm really surprised at how well they mate up. The pitch and angles are right on.

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#9 ·
Right now it's just zip tied together but I've got time to figure out something permanent. Open to ideas if you have any.

View attachment 980789
Just a thought here....what about epoxy-ing a couple of short bolts/screws (where I drew sloppy arrows) and using some flat stock and a couple of nuts on the back side to attach it? It looks like you could do that on both sides of each light housing and they'd be hidden?...

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#3 ·
I would use JB Weld strategically applied at all contact points that won't show from the front view. I would also lose that cross hatching around the pony, and consider a different pony altogether. That cross hatching just screams it wasn't designed for your car.

I'm all for mods of this type, but only if they can somehow pull-off looking somewhat period correct.
I cut holes through a '67 grille too:

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#5 ·
I don't think it'd be too hard to come up with a bracket for that. You'll just have to make sure you get it printed in a plastic that can handle the heat of being in the sun right in front of the radiator.

You could do the same thing out of metal too if you wanted.

First though make sure how the lights mount to the back of the lenses. You don't want to design and print something just to find out that it interferes with actually mounting the light bulbs in your fog lights.
 
#7 · (Edited)
As mentioned, glue or if you also want to bolt them on for more solid weight support (lenses/ bulbs) you could just bend some small brackets from thin metal in a flat Z shape, drill a hole in the top piece to put a screw in those post holes (4) you already have in the light bezel backside and bend the tab on the other end to push against the metal grill without being seen from the front.

If you would have only cut out the grille where the round holes for the lens and mounting studs sit through, you'd have a lot more metal left to brace against. I bought a repop grille to play with for driving lights to save my factory grille just in case. I think the repop grille was like $40 when I bought it 12+ yrs ago, now they're $120 😲

I agree with @4ocious, if you can also get rid of the plastic honeycomb in the horse corral it would look better (too busy with honeycomb egg crate lines and metal rectangles of original grill) and look more original/ take a 2nd glance like the example you posted.

I'm going with just the corral and horse on my '67 and removed the bars. The one thing I don't like about the newer Mustangs is the horse, corral, etc. is all plastic, ours are metal, even in repop.
 
#12 ·
Some good trimming work there. (y) You could print '67 mesh to go behind the pony. I like the idea of using bonding adhesive to set studs at intervals in the channel, with narrow strips (metal or 3D) behind it. I'd think it would minimize flexing.

Unfortunately, unless you were a machinist/engineer type with good tools, making good dimensional drawings to create 3D parts remotely would be tough. Perhaps check listings for a 3D print shop near you, or at the local community college (even high schools these days) that may have a 3D scanner to shortcut the hard part. Students might be eager to render the parts as well. 🤷‍♂️
 
#13 ·
Thank you all for the input. I too thought I should clear the honeycomb from the corral. I may still but I'd like to see just how it looks in place. Without the car it's completely obvious and irritating.

Interesting that my sample is exactly like mine but unless you get really close you didn't see it. It's pretty deeply set and with the edge of the hood always casting shadow it may not be all that noticable. (Below)

Thanks for all of the ideas! The rear of the '09 unit is completely channeled end to end. I'd thought of setting some resin and inserting ezlocks in it and securing from behind.

I'll post back when I make progress.

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Article if you're interested:

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#16 ·
You don't have to know about printing, or CAD, only measuring parts. With drawings or multiple careful photos with dimension notations ;), CAD can be used to create a part file, and any 3D print shop (local or online) can print it for you. Of course, it's nice to have your own or have a local buddy to do a quick print for fit, and adjust if required or desired.

Only a few minutes to wing this in a free program, but useless without dimensions:
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#18 ·
Stuff like this is what has kept me around here for almost 25 years!

You guys are really something.

I'll see what I can do to get measurements. The angles are really weird due to the forward rake. As you can probably see, it's quite complex.

Either way, much appreciate the offers to assist.


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#19 ·
Not a problem if accurate angles are included. I would use the ring/grille as 0°.

An example angled top ring, only needing legs and gussets, then remove the round stands (representing angled lamp housing screw locations). Again, just playing with concepts:
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#20 ·
#22 ·
Perhaps use plastic spacers cut to length, or drill the push-nuts to slide down the bosses? Either way, a plate to press against (rather than thin clipped grill mesh) might be prudent. 🤷‍♂️