Heads: AFR165 #1399.
Camshaft: Holman-Moody C9OZ-6250-C
Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Performer RPM #7121 or Weiand Stealth #8020
Carburetor: Summit M2008VS600

As for the transmission... Don't expect the 2.3 T5 to either last very long or to be really "driveable". First gear will be so low as to be virtually useless and 5th will be a huge drop in rpm when shifting from 4th. You'd be much better off with a 4-speed or a late-model V6 T5.

 

Thank you for your answer
I'll read about these parts! Thanks

As for the gearbox, yes, I know, I don't expect much from it and I am considering changing gears inside it.
I think it will be easier for me to order new gears than to order the entire gearbox from the USA to Europe

 

No more donor T-5s from a V8 mill there?

 

Unfortunately, there are not many donors here and T5, if any, sell quickly.

As for the heads, the AFR165 ones seem to be very good. I'm also thinking about Edelbrock 5023 (E-Street)
Air flow of 5023 heads:

 

Unfortunately, there are not many donors here and T5, if any, sell quickly.

As for the heads, the AFR165 ones seem to be very good. I'm also thinking about Edelbrock 5023 (E-Street)
Air flow of 5023 heads:
View attachment 923523

The problem with the Small Block Ford cylinder head design is primarily EXHAUST flow. Intake flow is quite good, even on production iron heads. Note the comparison, below, of your Edelbrock #5023 versus the AFR165 #1399. Across the board, exhaust flow is SIGNIFICANTLY better and you must get rid of the combusted mixture before you can "refill" the cylinder with fresh.

The exhaust flow averages about 130% of the Edelbrock head, across the board. Intake flow is also much better at lower valve openings.

 

Hi, yes I see that AFR are significantly better than Edelbrock (at .500 Ex/In - Ed = 67%, AFR =83%).
My only doubt is in the description AFR they write about compatibility with roller camshaft (springs have 140 lbs). I don't know yet what exactly springs are in it Ed 5023 ( I found this information: 125lbs, 325 lbs.@ .550”lift).

I planned to use flat tappet cam, and will I have to change the springs in the AFR or should I consider using a standard roller cam with linked roller lifters (for example morel 5323 or any other if you recommend)

 

Order the AFR #1399 with the "Spring Exchange #8064" for Flat Tappet Cams.

 

I'm waiting for the block to be ready (overboring, checking block line for crankshaft etc), should be ready by the end of January.
@Woodchuck thanks for the information, I found where I can buy these AFT 165 with a spring change - CNC-motorsport.

I'm thinking about the camshaft, one of those:

Howards - Near duplicate of Ford Cobra Kit #C9OZ-6250-C

217081-13

1600-5200

218/218

288/288

460/460

113

COMP High Energy

31-216-2	FS 260H-10	1200-5200	212/212	260/260	447/447	110
31-218-2	FS 268H-10	1500-5500	218/218	268/268	456/456	110

COMP Xtreme Energy

31-234-3

FS XE256H-10

1000-5200

212/218

256/268

477/484

110

COMP Computer Controlled

31-255-5

FS XE250H-14

1000-5200

206/212

250/260

462/474

114

Comp Controlled - it's not very fast but will be best for fuel injection (LSA 114) - if I decide to replace the carb with fuel injection
C9OZ - seems to by fast (288/288), I'm a little worried about how idle will work, but it has LSA 113 so maybe it will work smoothly and not too loud
High Energy/XE - seem to be the most popular. Of them, I'm thinking about: 268H and XE256H

These cams seem to be quite similar. There are differences, but not very big ones

 

I'm waiting for the block to be ready (overboring, checking block line for crankshaft etc), should be ready by the end of January.
@Woodchuck thanks for the information, I found where I can buy these AFT 165 with a spring change - CNC-motorsport.

I'm thinking about the camshaft, one of those:

Howards - Near duplicate of Ford Cobra Kit #C9OZ-6250-C
217081-13 1600-5200 218/218 288/288 460/460 113

COMP High Energy
31-216-2 FS 260H-10 1200-5200 212/212 260/260 447/447 110
31-218-2 FS 268H-10 1500-5500 218/218 268/268 456/456 110

COMP Xtreme Energy
31-234-3 FS XE256H-10 1000-5200 212/218 256/268 477/484 110

COMP Computer Controlled
31-255-5 FS XE250H-14 1000-5200 206/212 250/260 462/474 114


Comp Controlled - it's not very fast but will be best for fuel injection (LSA 114) - if I decide to replace the carb with fuel injection
C9OZ - seems to by fast (288/288), I'm a little worried about how idle will work, but it has LSA 113 so maybe it will work smoothly and not too loud
High Energy/XE - seem to be the most popular

I'm a bit biased toward the H-M C9OZ-C Camshaft. Here are the specs, below, also the C3OZ-C "HiPo" solid lifter stick and the C7FE "LeMans" cam.

 

My roller cam conversion was only about $700 since I did not have to change springs. Deduct the cost of a flat-tappet cam from that, and you're only talking about $400. If you tear up that flat-tappet during break in, you will wish you would have spent that $400 and converted to a roller.

 

Comparing the E Streets to AFRs is kind of comparing apples to oranges. The E Street are a budget line of heads. They’re an alternative to someone who would be rebuilding a set of cast iron heads with some minor bowl and port work. They lack the clean up and use more of a stock type valve. A more fair comparison would be the Performer RPM head to the AFR.

As far as cams. I would recommend contacting a company such as Isky or Howard’s. Both of these companies have been around for ever. Both are excellent companies with excellent tech support that will talk to you one on one and not read off a scripted flow chart. You will get free expert advice. I spoke with Howard’s a few times. Their techs explained a few things to me. Getting the exhaust right is very important. You don’t want to over scavenge. Heat is power. It’s expanding gases that you just don’t want to blow out before it can do its job.

The 5.0 T5 has a low 1st gear of 3.35:1. My Toploader 4 speed has a 2.78:1 which even works well with a 2.80. With this transmission Ford would use 3.00:1. The 4 cyl T5 has a 1st gear that’s even lower in the 4:1 range. That’s going to be a big jump to 2nd. 5th on the V8 T5 is .65:1 while the 4 cyl is .80:1. With the 4cyl T5 I think you’re going to have to pay more attention to the rear axle ratio or you’re going to end up with 4 useful gears instead of 5.

 

Just got my 1399 AFR today. Here is why they are so much better than factory/ e-street etc…I almost went e-street but by the time I upgraded the valve stem seals etc the AFR were only a couple hundred more…I got them on sale from a friend distributor. I also was porting my factory heads and it was just not worth the money to have them all redone by the machine shop. That same exhaust gasket hangs over the inside port of the AFR’s.

 

Could you post a close up photo of the AFR bowl? I am particularly interested in the spark plug area, the spark plug threads, and the fir and finish with and without a plug installed . The pictures I have seen always show exposed threads on the spark plug boss area, but I haven’t seen a good picture or a 1399 head in person - thanks in advance if you’re able to do this as I am leaning toward the same head.

 

 

Thank you all for your replies.

@Woodchuck now I see the difference between Howards "near duplicate" and H-M and these cams are different. I am afraid that these cams will be too fast for me and will not have smooth idle speed

@DIHLON When I checked, the price difference seemed bigger to me. And recently I read about example of the tear up flat-tappet during correct break in procedure (oil with zinc, over 2k rpm etc). If this happened to me too, I suspect the cost would be more than 400.
I once had an accident with the camshaft in my daily car (xc90 v8) - it broke while driving on the highway. So I will probably try to avoid further adventures with the camshaft

And one more question, I see that you use Pro Flo 4 EFI. What cam parameters do you have? Do you have a mass air meter/sensor or a MAP sensor and camshaft with larger LSA eg 114.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I think I have two options for changing to roller:

• buy retro-fit kit
• buy standard camshaft for roller block plus special roller tapper for example Morel 5323 or can you recommend any others ?

I will continue to look for information, but I am thinking about cam similar to these:
XE258HR
XE264HR LSA 114

@Huskinhano and @atitagain thanks
I will also write a question to e.g. Howards nad Comp Cams and ask what cam they recommend for my application, only a little faster than the factory one.
Just changing the heads and intake will help the engine breathe.
At first I was thinking about porting E7 heads but it would cost a lot of work, changing to aluminum will improve performance but also save weight. The Ford Capri is quite light and the change from v6 to v8 will be noticeable, so weight is also important for me. And I really see the difference between Estreet and AFR, and when I order them and send from US to EU I will choose the AFR

Do you leave the minimal steps (left after CNC milling) in the exhaust channels (and in the combustion chamber) or polish them?

 

Thank you all for your replies.

@Woodchuck now I see the difference between Howards "near duplicate" and H-M and these cams are different. I am afraid that these cams will be too fast for me and will not have smooth idle speed

@DIHLON When I checked, the price difference seemed bigger to me. And recently I read about example of the tear up flat-tappet during correct break in procedure (oil with zinc, over 2k rpm etc). If this happened to me too, I suspect the cost would be more than 400.
I once had an accident with the camshaft in my daily car (xc90 v8) - it broke while driving on the highway. So I will probably try to avoid further adventures with the camshaft

And one more question, I see that you use Pro Flo 4 EFI. What cam parameters do you have? Do you have a mass air meter/sensor or a MAP sensor and camshaft with larger LSA eg 114.

Correct me if I'm wrong, I think I have two options for changing to roller:

• buy retro-fit kit
• buy standard camshaft for roller block plus special roller tapper for example Morel 5323 or can you recommend any others ?

I will continue to look for information, but I am thinking about cam similar to these:
XE258HR
XE264HR LSA 114

@Huskinhano and @atitagain thanks
I will also write a question to e.g. Howards nad Comp Cams and ask what cam they recommend for my application, only a little faster than the factory one.
Just changing the heads and intake will help the engine breathe.
At first I was thinking about porting E7 heads but it would cost a lot of work, changing to aluminum will improve performance but also save weight. The Ford Capri is quite light and the change from v6 to v8 will be noticeable, so weight is also important for me. And I really see the difference between Estreet and AFR, and when I order them and send from US to EU I will choose the AFR

Do you leave the minimal steps (left after CNC milling) in the exhaust channels (and in the combustion chamber) or polish them?

I leave them as it! AFR has done a tons or flow research and testing. I am sure it they flowed better with a different “finish” they would mill them like that

 

I was going to say something about the iron heads in your Capri, but you are on it. You're already putting a lot of weight on the front suspension with the iron V8 block so you can expect a change in the handling characteristics. As much aluminum as you can use will be benefit you in the handling area. Always loved the Capri, just don't find them around here anymore in any condition.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, I think I have two options for changing to roller:

• buy retro-fit kit
• buy standard camshaft for roller block plus special roller tapper for example Morel 5323 or can you recommend any others ?

You can also have a cam ground on a reduced base circle and use factory stock specification roller lifters & "spider/dog bone" hold down hardware. You drill and tap the vintage block in order to mount the spider.

Do you leave the minimal steps (left after CNC milling) in the exhaust channels (and in the combustion chamber) or polish them?

I spoke to AFR about the ridges on my heads and they said not to remove them. Apparently it aids in air flow, much like the dimples on the surface of a golf ball.

 

Ok, thanks!
One more question
I need to but a balancer (28oz).
I have two timing covers: C9.. in bad condition and D9.. better one (I need clean it and verifying). And I planned to use a short water pump, like this one M-8501-E351S (or maybe buy rebuild kit and using a lathe, shorten the standard one )

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-8501-e351s/make/ford

But in the description of this pump there is information about balancer:
"They must be used with Ford Performance Parts Street Rod pulley sets, and the 4-bolt, long-style 3.950 in. harmonic damper."

Does this "long-style 3.950 in. harmonic damper" mean a normal/standard balancer and I can buy for example, this one?
- DAYCO PB1070N
More Information for DAYCO PB1070N
- PowerBond Premium OEM Replacement Harmonic Balancers PB1070N

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbb-pb1070n

 

I have had good results with this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-163289

It has 3- and 4-bolt pulley patters.

Note:
Damper includes a bolt-in counterweight that can be removed for a neutral balance applications. Balancer also comes with a bushing and spacer for correct pulley alignment.

 

Small update on mine rebuild engine

The engine block '69 I have was cracked - cracks from the water channel to the cylinder. This block would require new sleeves (instead of overbore in the mechanic workshop) and it would cost approx 1250$

Luckily, I have the second block from 79, and I used it. Now it is already after overbore and crankshaft aligned


The last important thing I need to do in the mechanical workshop before I start assembling the engine are balancing the crankshaft, pistons, etc. I need do this in another city because my local workshop has a non-working balancer :/
In order to do this, I need to have all the parts connected to the crankshaft, and now I am completing the parts. I already have a new flywheel (Ford M-6375-A302B), damper, pulleys for the short water pump.

The last thing I don't have is a clutch. Do you have any experience with Valeo clutches, for e.g.:
VALEO 52672006 - replacement for the OE ?
VALEO 62672005 - according to the description, slightly stronger than OE
VALEO 62672004 - has a note "Heavy Pedal Effort" - I don't want to have a "heavy pedal" in traffic

Has anyone used 52672006 or 62672005, or maybe something else, do you recommend them?

Thanks and best!

 

Small update on mine rebuild engine

The engine block '69 I have was cracked - cracks from the water channel to the cylinder. This block would require new sleeves (instead of overbore in the mechanic workshop) and it would cost approx 1250$
View attachment 939054

Luckily, I have the second block from 79, and I used it. Now it is already after overbore and crankshaft aligned


The last important thing I need to do in the mechanical workshop before I start assembling the engine are balancing the crankshaft, pistons, etc. I need do this in another city because my local workshop has a non-working balancer :/
In order to do this, I need to have all the parts connected to the crankshaft, and now I am completing the parts. I already have a new flywheel (Ford M-6375-A302B), damper, pulleys for the short water pump.
View attachment 939056 View attachment 939057


The last thing I don't have is a clutch. Do you have any experience with Valeo clutches, for e.g.:
VALEO 52672006 - replacement for the OE ?
VALEO 62672005 - according to the description, slightly stronger than OE
VALEO 62672004 - has a note "Heavy Pedal Effort" - I don't want to have a "heavy pedal" in traffic

Has anyone used 52672006 or 62672005, or mayb e something else, do you recommend them?

Thanks and best!

I used the VALEO 52672006 as an OE replacement on my 89 5.0. It was also OE on that motor. Very pleased with both. Had to replace the original due to oil contamination from a rear main seal but was still working great. Bought it through Rock Auto or Carid. Very reasonably priced.

 

You just need the harmonic dampener and flywheel.

 

Yes, I need only harmonic damper and flywheel. But they (mech workshop) said that if I had everything, after balancing, they would install the clutch and the pulley and check to make sure it is still everything ok, it would not be a big additional effort and it will be checked that everything is ok

 

I used the roller pilot bushing that was included but I used a throw out bearing for 66 Mustang since I am using the equalizer bar & the clutch release shaft fork for that model. The bearing supplied with the kit is for a Fox body clutch system.

 

Hi everyone, after a long break
I am still alive and the project is still alive too

I am currently assembling the engine and working on the bodywork (changing the radiator mountings, painting with primer and protecting the chassis etc.).

I have one question about installing the front timing cover and 'dowel pins'.
There are holes for these pins in the cover, but there are none in the engine block ('79) (the same in another block from '69).

Were they not included in those model years?
And in this case the cover needs to be screwed on lightly, then the damper needs to be installed to position the cover with the oil seal, and then tightened, correct?

some of the last parts for the engine

 

I have one question about installing the front timing cover and 'dowel pins'.
There are holes for these pins in the cover, but there are none in the engine block ('79) (the same in another block from '69).

Were they not included in those model years?
And in this case the cover needs to be screwed on lightly, then the damper needs to be installed to position the cover with the oil seal, and then tightened, correct?

Correct. They weren't used until much later. "Locate" the cover using the balancer to "center" the oil seal then support, snug down and then tighten. Don't let the cover "hang" on the balancer.

 

a. You probably need a '70 302 water pump bolt kit. That was the first year using a driver'side water pump inlet.
b. Timing pointer bolts as shown in the photo below...
c. I hope you're using a '67-68 "big block" radiator else your water pump inlet is on the wrong side...

 

Thanks for your reply, I will check this set of screws.
I have a custom radiator (selected by size) and modified mountings for it in the car, and inlet/outlet location - I also made sure that they will fit