Scat cast crank and Scat or Eagle I beam rods and a good forged piston is a good start. Scat *Special* 347 Street Stroker Kit [1-94165] - $799.00 : AD Performance, Your Source for Longblock Performance Parts

 

Thanks. I will definitely keep that in mind

 

A picture of one of the pistons that was very damaged

 

For a 347 from a 302, does it need to have a bore or can it be done with the original block?

 

The overbore doesn't add much to the CID..It's the extra stroke that makes the big difference. A stock bore is a 342 I believe so only bore it its necessary to clean up the cylinder and make it round.

 

.30 over is required

 

347 would be a .03 over bore- since you've got a 67 I'd consider a 408. I know that means picking up a 351 block but shouldn't add much to the cost and will be much stronger. John

 

Ford strokers dot com are another vendor for comparison.

 

Buy good heads!

 

I know they arent the absolute best but i have a set of GT40 heads

 

Like any build, you want to pay attention to the small details when piecing together or, for that matter, buying a kit. Things like piston compression height, block finished deck height, piston pin location, bearing types, connecting rod bolts, oil pump, crankshaft end play, valve timing, valvetrain geometry, etc, etc, will keep you from having a 347 cubic inch boat anchor.

 

Or how about F1ZE AA heads? These are 1991 GT40 production line heads on my buddy's 1992 Mustang!

 

SPOTSROOF69 is making a very wise suggestion. "BUY GOOD HEADS". I second the TFS. They were such a huge contributor in the 5.0 movement of the 1990's and offer a tremendous value over the assembly line stuff. There is a LOT of easy hp with a good set of heads.

 

Increasing the stroke and therefor cubic inches will help overall power, but will move the powerband lower in the rev range with the same intake setup. The gain will not be very impressive. With a better set of heads and corresponding intake setup you will be more likely to find the increase in performance you're looking for.

You could also keep the 302 bottom end and upgrade the heads, cam and intake with an exhaust to match. You will likely have more power than the cubic inch increase alone, and be ready to take advantage of an increase in stroke down the line.

Just my opinion. Do as you wish, it's your car.

 

This is how I broke it down for my project. So, the engine and components were e hardest decisions I had to make. I saw that I had 4 choices.

Budget goal was $5k. My options were:
1) Crate motor (eBay, tuff dawg, jasper, Ford Racing, etc)
2) Premium engine builders, i.e.: Fordstrokers.com
3) reputable, local machine shop
4) Build it myself

Option 1: Crate Motor (Ford, Blueprint, etc.)
Pros: convenient, average price, warranty
Cons: average performance, logistics make warranty issues difficult, mediocre parts or just rebuilt stock parts

Option 2: Premium Builders (Kieth Craft, Fordstrokers, etc.)
Pros: kick *** motor with all the HP and bling! Reliability, warranty
Cons: way outta my budget

Option 3: Local, reputable shop (L&R Engine in Santa Fe Springs, CA)
Pros: learn something & they answer all my questions, logistically easy for problems & disputes can be handled in local court if needed (don't expect it to), the shop orders the parts so it's on them to get the right ones, price is really good, cost only $525 more than doing it myself.
Cons: they're busy, 2-month wait, warranty isn't written in stone

Option 4: Build it myself
Pros: customization, price, gratification of doing it myself & learning something
Cons: Time consuming, still have to find a machine shop to machine the block, no warranty, minimal expertise

For myself, I got the most bang for my buck with a local shop. I'll have the assurance of a professionally built motor, premium parts, convenient, more horsepower per dollar, customized per my build and a local guy I can go to if something goes wrong. Local shop only cost me $525 more than doing it myself. I think I'll get most of the benefits that I would from a premium builders too, but save $2k-3k.

I'm hoping to get +400 hp out of this.

 

great thread. Subscribed

 

I think, once one settles on a "local shop", unless there is no question local shop "A" is the go-to for knowledge, service, quality machine work, it's a tough road to find one. I did my own design and build using a knowledgeable cam grinder 6-7 years ago. He's passed on....
I guess, I would start with canvassing the local cruise nights and shows.
Good post on the options.....

 

If you shop and buy wisely you can build a 331/347 stroker pretty reasonably if you have the ability to assemble yourself. My 331 cost me a total of just under $2800 for the complete engine using a scat stroker kit, FTI cam, and a set of barely used Edelbrock performer RPM heads. I didn't skimp on anything, but the pair of heads at $625 is what saved me the money. Im doing another stroker this winter and will pay the $$$ for TFS heads this time, but Im also hoping to achieve 475-500hp at the crank.

 

Just buy one of these and be done with it:

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/FMS-M6007Z427FFT_xl.jpg

Phil

 

Hahahaha. Sure would be nice

 

How much do you think a bore would cost at a machine shop?

 

Figure $175-350 depending on whether they bore/hone with a torque plate (recommended) or not and whether they're the only place for miles around. Don't forget you'll have to notch the bottom end of the cylinders for clearance for the rod bolts with the stroker crank.

 

That's tough to answer. Different regions, shop overhead etc.
What you want to have done on the block
1. have it dipped (cleaned)
2. cam bearings installed
3. bores checked
Then, determine what the bores need to be honed for rings. (.010-.040). Would not recommend going past .040.
Check the rods and crank, if being re-used. The cranks for being true, the small ends re-bushed, the big ends checked for bearing fit. The crank journals, need to mic'd to determine bearing sizes. Then comes any "go-dast" work. Chamfering, polishing, and balancing. If not, order a stroker kit.
Now, many will offer sonic checking the block, maga-fluxing etc. These are all good points too. If you suspect the block has been abused in it's history.
These are just some of the work. You can add chamfering oil return holes in the block, adding screw-in oil galley plugs etc.
So, there are any number of operations that will cause the costs to jump, not just boring....
I'm sure others can add this. It depends on where you're going with this build.

I've, been running the same block for 40 of it's 50+ years. Had it magna-fluxed in the 90s. Have been through 3 builds, with each adding for HP & TQ. No additional checks. Hasn't blown, but, may be a ticking bomb........
Good Luck.....

 

That's tough to answer. Different regions, shop overhead etc.
What you want to have done on the block
1. have it dipped (cleaned)
2. cam bearings installed
3. bores checked
Then, determine what the bores need to be honed for rings. (.010-.040). Would not going over .40

I am thinking about just going .30 over. As for additional things that I would want done, I want it dipped but thats about it. Im going to rebuild it with pretty much the only thing original being the block itself

 

Engine power is in airflow (fuel flow) not displacement. Agree with those that say to invest in aftermarket aluminum heads that flow.

68 302 block can be bored to .060 over if necessary but usually .030 is all that is needed to clean up the original bore (4.000).

With a 3.400 stroker crank:
4.030 = 347 ci
4.040 = 349 ci
4.060 = 352 ci

With a 3.400 stroker crank you will need to have the engine block clearanced for connecting rod /bolt clearance.

Paul

 

FWIW, I have a really nice set of custom Ross pistons which are 4.040 that were in a 331 turbo motor for a few passes. Turns out the block began to fail and I haven't found a use. They could be used on a 331 or 347 build with the appropriate rod. They are mildly used, and I would sell for less than a set of Probe pistons.

 

Here's a copy/paste from my build thread..,This is a 347 with a roller block by L&R Engines, a local machine shop here in SoCal. Good guys over there. Here's the cost breakdown.

Machine Shop Work (L&R Engines, Santa Fe Springs, CA)
$485 302 block, machined
$375 assembly
$1495 AFR 185's, 58cc
$70 AFR spring upgrade
$94 head gaskets
$138 Manley push rods
$127 ARP head bolts
$98 billet timing set
$150 installation heads, springs, rockers
TOTAL $3031

$150 He also took my standard bore 289ci and heads as a core

$1600 Lunati stroker kit delivered from eBay. All forged internals, included a blue printed oil pump, balancer.

$400 Custom grind cam from Ed Curtiss at Flotech Induction (I think that's the business name).

$250 Comp Cams Ultra Magnum Rockers from eBay.
GRAND TOTAL $5131

 

I think my total will be around $2,500 for the whole engine build. To save money I think I am going to reuse a set of heads and build it myself. I'm thinking about $1,000 for a stroker kit and another $1,500 for the engine block to be bored and a few other upgrades like a better intake, cool valve covers, etc. But when the engine is finished I will have to buy a new transmission (probably a T-5) to handle the horsepower and maybe a new rear end for the new horsepower. So probably $5,000 for the whole build.

 

my old build
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/e...-drivetrain-parts-sale/662538-selling-my-newly-assembled-347-afr-185-heads.html

 

Just curious where the 500hp number comes from?

 

*UPDATE*- A woman backed into my car while at my girlfriends house. Because its a classic car the insurance gave me more than 2.5x the amount the body shop said it would take to fix it. So the project might be a little closer to its finish than first expected.