I dont think it will work with the short filter. The FE aftermarket bars have a different bend and can use the standard filter

Laurie S can chime in, but I think even with the short Mopar filter they hit

 

In your post you say that the aftermarket bars can work with the normal filter, but I think you meant it can't...just want to confirm. I am going to try the short filter, but if it does fit, there should be no issue running it right?

 

Sorry for the typo, I dont think it will work, but if it doesnt hit, then you are good to go

I think though, you will find it still rubs or hits with suspension movement

 

I had the same problem with the 390 in my fastback. Turns out the vendor sent me a 1-inch swaybar for a small block. Once they sent me the correct bar for a big block, I had no problems with the oil filter. I'm using a regular size Motorcraft racing filter.

 

Not sure I understand how the sway bar interferes with the oil filter. How about some pics?
Ginger

 

I will have to take a couple pics to post. You can look at my pic site and see the engine in and get an idea. I got this suspension setup over a year ago, so I am not sure that they will take it back, but I can find out if it is the right setup. There are no pictutrd of the engine in from the front, but there are pics of the sway bar you can see.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10104298@N04/sets/72157600835016500/

 

As has been said you need the correct 1" Big Block Sway bar, if it hits it is not the right one and a short filter is a jurry rigged fixed, EOD!

 

The short filter didn't work for me, either. When the swaybar was tightened into position, it pushed into the filter about a third of the way. I don't think I kept any pictures of it, but I'll check.

 

I contacted Mustang Depot where I purchased the sway bar, and they said to send it back and they will swap it out for me. I am asking them if they have a picture to make sure it is the right one before I pay for the shipping, but I explained the issue to them. Can someone post up a picture of their FE front sway bar and where the oil filter sits? Also, is the rear still the same? It would seem to me that it would be, but I thought I would ask anyway. Thanks.

 

Before I send this thing back, can someone who has an FE take a look and make sure it is a small block Sway bar. Pics of an FE would be great if anyones got them.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10104298@N04/818358503/in/set-72157600835016500/

 

Only pic I have currently online although I have more at home.

 

Huh....that is the big block sway bar ...

Maybe it is just me, but that looks just like the one I have on my car in the above picture....

Is it possible that the engine has to be absolutely and completely seated in order to get the oil filter in? Right now the tail is not 100% raised up and the toploader is on blocks, we have to pull it back out to get the header bolts in. The oil filter was hitting going in, but again, when you are hanging a large engine in the air, you are moving quickly and taking crap off to just get it seated......

I also have TCP motor mounts..not that I think that would make a difference....

Once the engine is seated in its final place, approximately how much clearance between the filter and bar would you say there is?

Thanks.

 

actually...going back and forth between the 2...I think GTSCODE's has a slightly different bend.....

Looks like I am shipping it back to MU...at least they were nice enough to exchange it even after a long time period.....

 

Yeah, yours looks more like the small block version, it's more squared. When the correct sway bar is in there, there's about an inch of clearance to the filter.

 

I had a slight rubbing problem with mine with the standard filter. It actually rubbed a pinhole and started squirting oil; what a mess. So I went to the short size. Also I was able to jockey the
bar a bit to the outside which gave me more clearance. Probably enough to go with the standard size but I haven't yet.

 

Yeah yours looks more square to me too. Let me know if you want me to dig up another picture.

 

Here's the correct one on my fastback. You can see the angle of the big block swaybar.


http://www.tucsonpony.com/pull3a.jpg

 

A few questions,
Did you use a kit for the shock tower notching? I know this provides lots of room for sparkplug removal, but do you have easy access to the header bolts?
How do you like the TCP motor mounts? Do they change the engine position any compared to stock?
Where did you get your Speedo and Tach? Did you have your originals refaced and recalibrated?

Sources and prices would be great, too, if you don't mind.

 

Yeah, I completely see what you mean about the bar. I definitely got the wrong one here. I figure it is worth the 25 bucks or so shipping to get the right one in there so I don't have to screw with it in the future.

The last questions by Scode67FB, were those directed towards me? I am imagining so because I didn't see TCP motor mounts in anyone elses car.

The towers were like that when i got the car, and yes it does provide good access to sparks plugs, but no I cannot threat the bolts for headers due to bend in header tubes. The TCP Motor mounts are nice, but as for position, I am not sure. Engine is still not in final place. Loosely bolted in right now until we make final adjustments, but I will let you know. The gauges were 67 fastback gauges, but I contacted a place who refaced and recalibrated them for not too much money. They charged the same amount to reface with shelby gauges and recalibrate as "Gary the tach man" wanted to just repaint them stock. Contact the company below and ask for Gentry.

http://www.autoinstruments.com/

 

Why do you have to pay the shipping if they sent you the wrong bar? Or, didn't you specify for a big block?

 

I did specify the big block, but being this purchase was so long ago (about a year and a half or so), I figured they might not even exchange it out if I start telling them they should pay for shipping both ways. Just like anything else, if I have to send back a part to summit, I think I would have to pay for shipping back to them. Either way, it shouldn't cost much I don't think.

 

I need to buy one too, I still run the factory pinky-finger-sized 302 AT sway bar, and really doesnt do a thing to help hold back the big block weight

BTW I was thumbing through your pics, that car of yours looks like it will be very nice.

What are the details on the engine build?

 

The details and an empty wallet......

Engine block is a 68 390GT, actually had never been bored. now it is .030 over. Correct GT Heads. Crankshaft was redone.

Comp cams K Kit - cam shaft, etc.
Crane Cams Roller Rocker setup
Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake
Speed Pro Power Forged Pistons w/ 10:1 ratio
Cobra Aluminum Finned T pan
Holley 750CFM carb
March Aluminum pulleys
Powermaster Hi Tourque Mini Starter
MSD Distributor
and a whole lot of customization from the engine builder..just little parts and things here and there.

Drivetrain -
Toploader 4 Speed RUG M
Hays Zero Balance 40 lb flywheel (which had to be drilled by machinist to make right)
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Hurst Shift Kit

Can't think of toomuch else right now, but if there is something you would like to see, let me know. Most else is stock stuff. Those are most of the upgrades.

 

I had the same problem with my 390 and larger one inch sway bar. When I ordered mine from Mustangs Plus it said a oil filter re-location kit would need to be used on a BB car. I decided to use a smaller filter. I use the FL300 I think. It is the filter that is used on the Rangers and Areostars. Been using that for the last three years or so without any issues.

 

I just went though this. Most of the vendors that sell the aftermarket 1" bars now have you specify small or big block. The BB one is a little wider in the center so that it just clears the oil filter. I'm still using the HP1 that is the full size filter just like the FL-1A. I sold the wrong bar on eBay.....