I have a manual valve body, so I’m not familiar with the transmission controllers, but I assumed they could trigger the OD and TC lockup solenoids. Is this not the case? Anyways, I bought a radio delete bezel and mounted the OD and TC lockup pushbuttons and indicator lights there.

 

That looks really nice - where did you find the O/D switch?

 

 

I did this for mine. The led is located under the D, and the switch is on the bottom at the right. Still not sure of no interference with the bottom of the switch, but haven’t got it running down the road yet.

 

Sorry, you were asking about controller location, not button and indicator location.
Also, I don’t have a console nor separate TCM.

 

Sorry, you were asking about controller location, not button and indicator location.
Also, I don’t have a console nor separate TCM.

Ha, well I have the same problem for where to put the switch and light, so I really appreciate it.

 

My trans controller is mounted on the trans tunnel under the front of the center console. Out of sight, but unfortunately, that isn't the best location if you ever need to troubleshoot the unit since I can't see the LED lights or access the wiring connectors without removing the console and removing the seats to access the console screws.

 

That’s where my Terminator ECM is; under the dash where the ashtray hung down. I’m thinking of fastening a small mirror to reflect the status lights so I can see them.

 

Maybe just put the controller under the console and you still have your console storage.

 

Yeah - thats my initial thought, wires coiled up tucked under the front of the console. Somehow doesn't seem satisfying to me, but maybe thats the best option. Hoping someone had a genius idea ....

 

I hoped to put the controller under the seat but it didn’t fit on the 69. Plan b & c will be in the console glove box or under the dash behind the ashtray. If one of those doesn’t work, I don’t have a plan d. I’m following.

 

I hadn't tried to put it under the seat - I guess thats out.

 

A hobby cruiser is usually fine without the OD switch. The switch is useful for towing to reduce stress on the driveline and lockup clutch, or occasional tracking like road-racing or auto-x where the programming is normally to allow OD and it's shuffling. The switch can be anywhere as it's only on while tracking. With the QS, you can program to unlock above a certain throttle, so it shouldn't be required for typical street use anyway - but your call on that.

Location is wherever it fits. I have now installed a number of boxes with rare earth magnets, so they stick where I want them, but can be pulled for whatever reason.

 

The OD switch is great. On my Thunderbird, I always used it for city driving and mountain driving. It reminded me so much of my Cougar with an FMX. And I hate the frequent shifting of 4th gear all the time. It's not just for racing and no harm will come from using it. When I got the Thunderbird the OD switch on the shifter was broken. So I put one on the console. The switch Wrtyson put on the shifter looks great. You'll need to figure out a little indicator light too. You don't want to leave out the OD switch.

 

And I hate the frequent shifting of 4th gear all the time.

Yep, and that's what you get with factory programming, with no program configurations, so your options are to live with it in those conditions or hit the button. But the OP is going programmable QS, so when programmed for his vehicle and driving, it won't shuffle shifts or lockups except and if when he wants it to.

Heck, he can run the floor shifter and paddle shifters or shift buttons, and hold any gear he wants as long as he likes with no shift-shuffle. Lots of options with programmable control. For my driving style, I like to program lockup everywhere above 1st gear or ±30mph. Just my preference.

If you can 3D print (or a buddy or local maker's shop), there are many different styles of steering wheel mounted paddle shifters, as just one option:

 

P51, I’m getting ready to do the same on my 68. A couple quick questions for you;
1. How did you set up your shifter?
2. Did you have to do anything for clearance in the tunnel?
3. Are you running Headers or manifolds? What did you have to do for the exhaust to clear the trans?
4. Would the controller fit in the glove box?
5. Did you have to shorten the driveshaft?
6. Can you post pics of your trans mount?

Thanks

 

1. I used the stock shifter and added the Lokar selector shaft arm to the transmission. Here's the Lokar arm:
Lokar ATA-1005 Lokar Transmission Selector Shaft and Arms | Summit Racing

Then I made a shifter linkage from the original linkage and some steel rod that I could bend (I could not bend the original linkage to try to reshape it)

2. No tunnel clearance issues!

3. I had previously installed an AOD, and had handbuilt a midpipe around that. I have Doug's headers installed upstream. The 4r70w required the midpipe to be lengthened roughly an 1 1/2". That took a bit of work to get it right.

4. Yes it could easily fit in the glovebox.

5. I think this depends on the transmission you are switching from. My car came with an FMX - I shortened the driveshaft to accommodate the AOD - I don't recall the exact change but I think it was 1 1/2". But when I put that in the car the driveshaft was maybe a 1/2 shorter than I would have liked. It worked on test drives but I wasn't happy with the amount of yoke hanging out of the tailshaft after reading what people recommended on here. The 4r70w is 3/4 longer than the AOD, so now my driveshaft is really close to perfect, maybe a hair on the short side.

6. I had hacked up the FMX transmount to fit the AOD, which really just amounted to trimming some metal off of the mount. Switching to the 4r70w, the mount had to shift back 3/4". I cut up the same mount and rebuilt it using most of the same parts and adding some box tubing to strengthen the setup. Not the prettiest thing, but it seems to have worked. Then I powder coated it in my Eastwood powder oven.

Hope that helps!

 

Make sure the OD switch is a momentary switch.

 

Not true. The switch must be maintained. The switch in the link I provided is maintained when it is pressed, then released when it is pressed again.

 

May not be entirely helpful but I built my own console and integrated the controller into it. I use a cable shifter from a 99 mustang and use the controller's display for the prndl.

 

May not be entirely helpful but I built my own console and integrated the controller into it. I use a cable shifter from a 99 mustang and use the controller's display for the prndl.

View attachment 967549

Wow that looks amazing. Very nicely done!

 

Cougar70, thanx for the flowers! I’m still getting things done, but here’s where the Terminator ECM is on my 70. I don’t/didn’t have a console though.

 

The setting to use OD only above 45 MPH seems good. Why spend an hour wiring a little button?

 

I mounted an under dash bracket housing the OD override switch under the ignition switch (push button in my 65). I have a few other switches mounted there ( instrument cluster dimmer, toggle switches, alarm light, seat heaters. I don't use the overdrive disable switch often, but it does come in handy driving around town or for steep climbs on the highway.

I mounted the Ushift controller box within the glove box as I have the model with the remote screen mounted alongside the steering column.

 

My 4r70 is in a 64 Falcon with a Gen 3 Coyote. I put the US Shift controller in the glove box. Easy to get to if I want to make adjustments.

 

I have about 20K miles on the AODE/Quick4 (close ratio 4R70W) in my 65.

I have been running their first gen on an E4OD in my 84 E350 for over a decade.

I found their furnished programs to be useless.

Scattered thru the album, below the 60% level, linked below, are pics related the the trans in the 65.

1-Mustang 351W-427W 1965

168 new items · Album by Ray Davison

goo.gl

 

What was the problem with their program? What did you use instead?

Why did you modify the tunnel?